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DAMN CARB

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by incognyto, Nov 25, 2002.

  1. incognyto

    incognyto Registered Member

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    /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif So I tossed a new (newer) motor in my truck used the same carb and distributer shaft and all, motor runs like CRAP, backfires and crap all the time. I'm sure the air/fuel is screwed which is why I have to have the timing so advanced before it will run smooth, anyone have any Idea where I could set the idle speed / air fuel mixture screw's to be close to default. or for resonably fuel economy? used a newer shaft outa buddies blown up k5 got new cap / rotor / plug's / and wire's. still run's crappy. it's a Rochester Quadrajet.
    OH and one other good question would be what kinda spark gap should I be running? with a 350? and last but not least, what type of axle's do I have with 6 lug factory diff's? 85 wrangler 1/2 ton? can I fire in a rear from a 1 ton or does stuff have to be changed?

    BTW I got hand crushed in a Jack-all really hard to type won't be fixing to much more stuff for about two week's.
    Thanks in advance. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Location:
    Atlanta
    Got the Distributor in 180 Degrees out.
    Crank turns twice for every single turn of the cam. Set it back on TDC timming mark. Pull the distributor up off the cam Spin the crank by hand ONE turn. Put the distributor in and see if that get's it running right.
    You don't advace to smooth out an engine when the distributor is in right you retard it. The more advance the harder it is to start.
    Starting point on the idle screws is about 2.5 turns out.
     
  3. incognyto

    incognyto Registered Member

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    I highly doubt the motor would even run if the distributer was 180 degrees out! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    It will. It runs really bad but it will run.
     

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