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Damn crappy brakes

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BobK, Mar 5, 2001.

  1. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

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    Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,
    It seems I don't have enough pedal when I apply my brakes.The brakes just don't want to lock up.It seems like I bottom out before enough pressure can be applied.
    Here is what I've done so far:new booster,master cylinder,prop. valve and flexable brake lines.Bled the system many many times,new front calipers with premium pads,adusted the rear brakes so there's just the right amount of drag to them and adjusted the e-brake cable.
    WHY CAN'T I LOCK THEM UP!!
    Brake pedal is hard but seems to take too much pedal pressure to stop the truck.The booster vacume hose is new with no cracks.
    I know the brake pedal can be adjusted but why would you ever have to do this!Help me out guys.

    [​IMG]<font color=green>BobK<font color=green>
     
  2. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    I know the pain that you are going through. I too replaced every brake component on my blazer.
    First thing is first, when you bled the brakes did you keep that pin in the prop valve depressed, that is make sure it's held in with something?? There is a special tool for it but hard to find. A dime and a large clamp worked for me.
    Assuming you did, did you leave any oil, grease, cleaner, etc on the rotors?? Use some brake cleaner before and after.
    Lastly, check your pads. Spend the money and save yourself hours of work. First pads that i got were the cheapies from autozone, big mistake. Spent all xmas break and the following months figuring out what the hell was going on. Took the front brake pads out and sure thing, they were cracked and falling apart.
    As to the brake pedal, It only brings it closer or further away from the brake stop rubber under the steering column. The only adjustment i see to that is the length of your leg.

    Almost forgot, did you set the rod length between the boster and master cyl properly???

    ARQ.
     
  3. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

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    Rotors are clean even scuffed them up when I put on the new calipers.The front pads are new with Napa premium pads(the good ones).Did adjust the rod between the booster and master cylinder,did it the way the instructions said to.As far as the pin on the prop valve goes,do you push it in or pull it out.I pulled it out approx.1/16th of an inch and kept it out with a pair of needle nose vice grips while I bled the brakes.Didn't know you could push it in.That's the only thing I haven't tried.
    Arq,you said you feel my pain.Did you have this prob. and is it solved now for you?
    Thanks, Bob.

    [​IMG]<font color=green>BobK<font color=green>
     
  4. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Hey Bob what about bench bleading the master before assymbly? Sounds to me like you must still have air in the system..?? Oh how about the hard lines, did you inspect them for a pinch or bend that could be restricting the fluid????
    Just thinking out loud here, thats a tuff one so GOOD LUCK!!

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com>http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  5. BobK

    BobK 1/2 ton status

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    Yup,bench bled the master cylinder before I installed it.All hard lines look to be in fine shape and I just replaced the flexable rubber lines with some stainless steel braided ones.
    You can check out that install at this link.
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4292947229>http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4292947229</A>


    [​IMG]<font color=green>BobK<font color=green>
     
  6. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    bobk,

    i think you are suposed to keep the pin on the prop pressed in while you bleed the brakes. That's what i did, well i tried it both ways.

    while I was bleeding the brakes I also noticed that i was getting air through the threads on the bleed screws, so i riged an old brake line to go directly to vacumm pump. once done I had my dad press on the brake slowly while i put the bleed screw back in.

    you may also check you front calipers to make sure they are not frozen, even if they are new. I used a small piece of 2x4 and steped on the brake pedal to try them out.
    My first master cylinder was cracked when i got it new from napa, sh#t happens. It didn't even get past the bench test.

    My problem had to do with the brake pads, I too am using NAPA pads. Brakes work now and am able to lock them. There is also a vacum lock on the line going to the boster. The lock is actually the 90 deg thingy where the vacum hose hooks up.

    ARQ.
     
  7. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    The shoes may not be fully seated yet. It will take about 2-300 miles to seat new shoes. Air in the lines will cause pedal to go to floor. Since you have a hard pedal I would say shoes not fully seated.
     

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