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DAMNIT!!!...HELP...BROKEN HEAD BOLT!!!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by clintsk5, Jul 24, 2002.

  1. clintsk5

    clintsk5 1/2 ton status

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    ..Damn it all to Hell!!!...When it rains it fawking pours!!...Well..I blew an head gasket....So, I start tearing it apart...Everything is going well untill I get to the REAR-DRIVER-SIDE head bolt!!( most difficult to get to of course!!!)...This on is not budging...So..I give it a little grunt and.......SNAP.....Breaks off clean with the block!!!.... /forums/images/icons/mad.gif ..So...Does anyone have some options for me? /forums/images/icons/confused.gif !!!....Easy-out?....Dynamite??...Suicide?...I tried to search the forums first ..But couldnt find much!!...Any help would be apreciated!!...Thanks!!!...~CLINT~...
     
  2. jmd

    jmd Registered Member

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    Sounds like time for some upgrades /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    Look on the bright side /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    You didn't crack a head or block /forums/images/icons/ooo.gif
     
  3. clintsk5

    clintsk5 1/2 ton status

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    ..This engine is pretty fresh!. .030 over, big cam,..Hauls ass!!!...Hell...I upgraded the Hell out of it already!! /forums/images/icons/grin.gif .....Just trying to get it back together before work on Friday!!!
     
  4. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Craftsman's ease-outs work pretty well. If that doesn't work, you might be forced to drill, tap, and install a helicoil.

    I assume you have the head off. If you know someone that is good with a welder they might be able to weld a smaller bolt to what is left of the head bolt. Since is is broken off, the tension should be relieved and it should come out easier. It might just back right out if you could attach something to it.?????
     
  5. POFF

    POFF 1/2 ton status

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    Get some good penitrating oil like Aerokroil or Zep and soak it good. Get a nice sharp drill, a left hand bit if you can find one, and an easy out. On a head bolt I would avoid the hammer in style. The reverse spiral ones work well if you drill a straight hole in the center of the bolt. They only cost a few bucks at any industrial supply (Craftsman ones are OK but you can get Morse or Chicago Latrobe ones for the same price). A good easy out will have the drill size on it. It doesn't hurt to have the next couple of sizes up of drill. Sometimes I find it more effective to use a larger drill than they recommend. Drill the hole then put the easy out in and get the spirls to grab. Easy outs are made to use with tap handles but Lisle and a few other companies make "tap sockets", these are great. Drilling all the way through is the best way but be careful if the bolt threads in to the oil passage you might want to stop just short. If it's the water jacket just flush the engine when you're done. Then, let the bolt cool off, more penitrating oil will speed it up a bit. The bolt expands when it's hot and can be more difficult to remove, it will contract as it cools. Then, keep steady pressure on the easy out so it doesn't pop out and unscrew (hopefully unscrew anyhow). If this doesn't work you can try one size larger easy out but be really careful not to damage the threads. Last resort- threaded insert. I would try to use Keen-serts first, they come in two different thicknesses. If you can't find Keen-serts (or comparible) then Heli-Coils will work but you have to be more careful.
     
  6. clintsk5

    clintsk5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the suggestions!!!...I decidd to take a break from the bolt and have been cleaning up th heads!!!...Now it started to rain!!!...Damn it all to hell!!..Sometimes I wish this thing was smaller so it would fit in the garage!!!...I have a friend that might be able to weld something to the bolt or I will use an easy out!!..hopefully this works!!...It just sucks it at the back of the engine and all the brake crap is in the way!!
     
  7. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    My advice is do NOT use an EZout. If the bolt is stuck enough to break the bolt the when trying to get it out you'll be SOL with an EZout too. I just use ezouts when a bolt is overtightened and breaks etc. now, not if it breaks during removal.

    If there is enough of the bolt sticking out definitely go the weld on a new bolt head route or tow/trailer it to a shop to do it.

    I tried an EZout on a broken accessory bolt in the head and did everything by the book. The darn thing broke as soon as it got a good bite into the bolt. Drilling through an EZout is darn near impossible and I ended up grinding it with a dremel - unlikely to be a viable option for a longish head bolt.

    Is a helicoil an option for a high torque application like a head bolt? I'm not a fabricator or mechanic - merely an enthusiast just so you know where I'm coming from, but a helicoil doesn't seem viable in a place where torque is so important.

    Good luck. Don't let it get ya down - the nice thing about these trucks is that spare parts almost grow on trees. Be glad you're not working on a Unimog...
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Actually you bring up a good point...don't head bolts protrude into the water jackets? Or at least some of them?

    As to EZ Outs, according to my thinking, with an EZ Out, you drill a hole in the bolt. The EZ Out is actually tapered. (right?) So the further into the bolt the EZ Out gets, the more it EXPANDS the bolt itself, making it even harder to extract. So thus, the EZ Out is having to work even harder against rust, and now bolt threads that are biting into the block even harder, causing them to snap off inside.

    Not sure that I've ever heard of an EZ Out success story, except I'm sure they work great on overtightened bolts, and ones that just don't have heads but aren't in tight.

    Do a search on the boards in the past year or so, I *think* there have already been a couple of EZ Out failures. Then you end up with an even harder material you have to try and remove.
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Yes, a helicoil can be used on a head bolt. That's how most aluminum block motors come from the factory (with helicoils already in them!!).

    I would not use the EZ out either. If you break it out, no drill bit will drill through that EZ out. I suggest a reverse drill bit.
     
  10. bklynlifted

    bklynlifted 1/2 ton status

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    i have drilled a few broken head bolts in marine applications . first thig is a drill with a guide if you don't have one find one do not attempt to do this /forums/images/icons/wink.gif by eye you will screw it up even if you have a steady hand. i have allways used a eazy out (lots of pennitrating oil)in the worst case cenario drill the damn thing out if the eazy out duzn't do it, and run a tap in> try the bolt with lots of oil, if all else fails put the heli coil in . TAKE YOUR TIME it will come out just a matter of time and by which method it wants to come out by??? GOOD LUCK
     
  11. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    use some penetrating oil along with some taps /forums/images/icons/smile.gif that is hammer taps so that the threads will make contact with each other and the oil will slowly penetrate the threads. try it a few times. just don't tap too much that you'll nail the sucker through.

    if all comes to worse you can drill it out and use a larger bolt there. It happen to me when i was replacing my heads. sucked cause it was one and only dailydriver(work was 20m away and no buses). anyhow, i had to drill and tap a larger hole then make the head hole where that bolt went through a bit larger too. It's been there since 99 with no problems.

    ARQ.
     
  12. clintsk5

    clintsk5 1/2 ton status

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    HELL YA.....Clint, (with help of welder, Vise-Grips, BFH and alot of cuss words)...1....Fawking head bolt..0..I win!!..Thanks for the help...She came out in one piece!!!
     
  13. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    If you're a smooth operator, you can use a torch on it. I watched in astounishment as my uncle took a torch to a manifold bolt I broke when installing my vortec 355. He just got it hot, hit the air, and dug out the slag. Then stuck in a thread cutter to clean it out. I would only do that as an abosulte last resort. God knows where the slag would go if it fell into the water jacket.
     
  14. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Sounds like you got it out, so this may be mute (but might benefit somebody else). In instances where the bolt is flush or even sunken a little below the mating surface, If the bolt is big enough, you can buy the next size down nut (so if the bolt is 9/16" thread, you can buy a 1/2" nut) and weld it (on the INSIDE) to the top of the bolt and see if it will unturn then. The next size down is so that you don't end up welding the nut to the mating surface /forums/images/icons/blush.gif , you can use the same size or even larger nut if the shank of the bolt is exposed.
     

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