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dana 44 - help please

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by makovai, Sep 8, 2006.

  1. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    I'm doing the 3/4 ton conversion and i have a few questions about the dana 44.

    1. Other than the 8 lug rotor is there any difference in my 6 lug dana to my new 8 lug?

    2. I can't get the upper ball joint nut (red arrow) to come out. I have a real nice snapon tool for removing this special nut, but i cant get it to budge on either upper ball joints. I have tryed cheater bars, impact wrench, etc.... my last attemp i took a rose bud and heated it up and still nothing. What am i missing? it's not a left handed thread is it?


    3. as seen in the picture, why does the ball joint have a screwdriver slot in it and a hole through the side? I'm missing somthing here. I'm so frustrated...

    Pleaaaaaaaase help

    [​IMG]
     
  2. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    you shouldn't need to change the knuckles, just the spindles, backing plate and callaper, rotor/bearing hub and bearings. Even the locking hub parts interchanges unless pre '75 with the large external hubs
     
  3. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    The screwdriver slot is to help with tightening down the nut until you can torque it. And the hole thru there is for a cotter pin.

    As far as getting the adjusting collar out, i just beat the living crap out of the ball joint until the ball joint popped thru, then removed the adjusting collar.
     
  4. IGOR

    IGOR 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Wow - you almost sound desperate Jim - did you get it out yet?

    Jeff- dumb question - but isn't the balljoint attached to the collar via threads?
     
  5. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    time for airhammer with picklefork attachament.... or jsut picklefork and BFH
     
  6. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    What you're looking at is called a upper ball joint preload bushing. You will never get that out or even to move while the upper ball joint is still seated tightly against it. Like someone alread said, you do not need to change the knuckles when converting to 8 lug. Once you have the hub/rotor assembly off remove the caliper bracket and replace it with the 8 lug caliper bracket then as long as the 8 lug hub/rotor assembly is of the same design (1st design or 2nd design) as your old 6 lug then just install the 8 lug hub/rotor assembly and re-attach the caliper and you're done.
     
  7. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    ...unless your replacing the balljoints while you are doing the conversoin. Put a picklefork between the knuckle and C and run tilll it pops out. Or put nut back on that BJ and beat with a hammer
     
  8. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Pm'd ya
     
  9. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    What year Dana 44 are you putting in? I'm putting in a 78 3/4 ton Dana 44 in my 70 K5 and haven't addressed the front brake line issue yet. I'm assuming I will just get brake lines for the 78 donor truck but I haven't yet seen if they will connect to the 70 K5's stock hard lines or if they will be long enough. I've got a 4" lift btw.

    Have you addressed the front brake line issue yet?
     
  10. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Ben, the threads are actually on the outside of that pre-load collar and thread to the knuckle. Its the tapered shaft on the ball joint that is making it a killer to remove. BFH always worked.
     
  11. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    late last night i was really desperate. i figured i have nothing to lose, so i took a big splitting maul and pounded the top of the ball joint. It didn't appear to do anything but then i went back at it with the impact wrench and vala. it came out. i geuss what i didnt realize was it was a split nut. so the more you tighten it the more it expands. Anyway all is well.

    thanks for your help guys.
     
  12. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Hey, just realized I'm up the road from ya in Canby :thumb:
     
  13. IGOR

    IGOR 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    That's great Jim - did you get the other side out?
     
  14. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    I did get both sides apart.

    Another thing is the backing plates. Is this noraml to have 2 different backing plates? which one is the most desired?

    [​IMG]
     
  15. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    The D60 backing plate is most desired.
    It looks as if someone was patching different years together on that.
    I have the thin ones on my rig and they are tweaked from the PO.
    Those ones are the early style.
    I have the thick set ones on the 10 bolt 8 lug in the pile o parts for mine
    I know mine are the early style because they have the flat top knuckle that I had Jeff (AKA muddytazz) machine, drill and tapp it for x-over for $65.
    While I'm also singing Jeff's praises I might also mention he also made me a York compressor mounting bracket.
    It's good to know folks from here, we all get along.
     
  16. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    well I'm off to a good start. This was just to check clearance, but it all went together on the first corner. These are 39x18 mickeys, looks like i'll be adding cut-a-way flares too.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. IGOR

    IGOR 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    You will be buying a Dana 60 next - you animal!
     
  18. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    This may be a little tough to get under the fender well.
    These may not work.


    [​IMG]
     
  19. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    Ah hell, just make some custom fender flairs :thumb:
     
  20. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    I might get away with some cut-a-ways, but i also own a set of 38x15.5 swampers. they may go on a little better.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2006

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