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Dana 44 or Dana 60?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by CK5, Jul 7, 2000.

  1. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    OK, I have a Dana 44 up front with 4:10s, I have snaped an axle shaft in Moab with the stock axles. I would like to hear what you would do if expense was no object, pros and cons. I will be going with 4:88 gears and ARB, should I put in chrome molly axle shafts with the new fusiable link hubs in my Dana 44? Better ground clearance and parts availability and less weight than Dana 60. Or should I move up to a Dana 60 for better overall strength?

    Steve
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Hmmmm, I would stick with the 44 and moly shaft setup!
    just cuz of the style of wheelin you like to do!
    the old shafts that you replaced with moly ones will serve as great trail fix items if you blow a ujoint! I think front 60s are neat but kinda high $$ and even if $$ wasn't an object i still would do the D44 on stareriods deal!!
    $.02

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
    http://burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  3. Andreas

    Andreas 1/2 ton status

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    ditto

    Andreas

    406cui of pure sh*t[​IMG]
     
  4. Rockblazer

    Rockblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Ok here is my two cents! I have seen too many broken 44's . You are really borderline with the 36's and if you ever go bigger you will have paid alot for chrome moly crap that can't take the abuse. Now it really depends on your motor and driving techniques as well. However I have witnessed a full size Bronco with Warn's axles and he is still breaking them. Also when they do break they are under so much stress that he is on his second Detroit. Also Warn is going out of the axle business and will only warranty 1 set of axles. Yikes for $500? I would go with the 60. The only weak link there is the outter stub and Dyna trac has a fix for that. Again pricey but if it were a dream world... Reverse cut Dana 60 with 35 spline outers and a Detroit! Thats beef for ya! Have fun and if ya want to test it out come and play in my playground sometime! I'd be happy to show you the proving grounds! Take care.... Todd

    "You're right... I don't understand that Jeep thing!"
     
  5. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    No comparison. Go Dana 60. Moly shafts for $500, you can get a brand new 60 for $1395 from Brian on the list here. Most people will not "do it all at once" and spend double the money upgrading and repairing their 44 or 10 bolt prior to buying a 60. Do it once, do it first, and do it right...Dana 60.

    ken
     
  6. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    Auh, about the Warn Axle comment, please expain ? Didn't Warn just enter the axle buss. ?
    Seams this Liftime Warrenty on auto parts may well put some out of buss.
     
  7. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    Go Dana 60 all the the way baby. If someone has a picture of a 44 shaft next to a 60 and you would sh*t yourself. I will never go with a 44 again unless in a 2500lbs sami. As for the stub shafts look into Dana 70 front axles they had 35 spline outer shaft and warn I think makes hubs for the 35 spline.

    Donovan
     
  8. stephan van leir

    stephan van leir 1/2 ton status

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    Steve, It seems to me that like most Colorado wheelers you do most of your play here in the south west. Or mountain trails favor the lighter unsprung weight of the 44 or 10bolt. Didn`t you just shear a rock ledge on the Y2K5 run? Why add the extra weight, lose ride quility, and over touque a frame that was not desinged for it. Look at a K30 frame and tell me they are the same. It can be done but at what cost on the rocks? After all look at Steve Watson`s K5.
    He even runs the 10bolt. Steve`s truck is 4+ ready. No tripe on that rig. If your not running higher than 4.56`s or 38`s why not run the 44 with moly shafts, you do own the thing already. Bigger does not always mean better.
     
  9. blazer72

    blazer72 1/2 ton status

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    I can safely say that I run one of the heavyest k5s out there with one of the highest tork figues to boot. Yet I have yet to hurt the 44 once I pulled the weak axels and spindels. Yea the 60s are big and yes you do have to work harded to trash them but they do break just like the rest. The axel the Steve Fresby twisted last sunday was an old OEM one that had sean years of wheeling. And yes I am runnig a ring gear in my 44 that has a chip, a 29 yearold ring gear that has seen 480 pounds of tork times 100. Hit it hard when a buddy slamed the cluch!!!!

    Dana 60 why? Not the way you drive, Not with the drive line you run it way more than you need.

    As for Warn getting out of the axel busness, Better not I just droped 1200.00 with them and have the warentys that say replace any time every time no mater why or how often!!!

    The front axels have been out for a few years the rear kits are new but all the warn kits are life time unconditional replacment !!!!

    I understand the jeep thing I drive a BLAZER!!

    Ken
     
  10. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Well, for my $$ I would stick with what you have shafts and all and just put in the fusable hubs. The hubs should break before the u joint and the u joint should break before the shaft. There are times when you get at a bad angle and the shaft breaks instead, I dont know physices, but [censored] Happens.

    Depdog

    <font color=blue>"Lead, Follow, or BECOME the Trail"</font color=blue>
     
  11. nyyef

    nyyef 1/2 ton status

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    weighing both options, i would stick with the 44, and watch your right foot. most of the time you can tell when you are straining the hardware.
    think of all the abuse it has taken in the past with no problems. you are bound to break something every now and then (the 60 is no exception).
    remember, if you beef one area, all it means is that you will break something elsewhere.

    Knife.
     
  12. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    With the chrome moly kit you can just get the inner shafts or the outer. I dont know which one you broke but I cant see the outer shafts breaking that ofton. Maby just get the inner shafts and the super strong u-joints.
     
  13. Brians 60s

    Brians 60s 1/2 ton status

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    Here is my opinion on the matter although probably biased because I have a surplus of 60's. Anyway when my blazer was
    small. 35 bfg mudders and a 400 small block I would break
    44 stub axles like they were going out of style. I would also break inner u joints. I then spent 500 bones on chromoly axles and other upgrades only to then break ring and pinions. I have my own personal bone yard of 44s. Since
    switching to a 60 I have broke nothing, zero, nada. Although
    biased The other friends I wheel with have all but one switched to a 60. Just to sum it up they are one tough axle!!!

    MUDNUT
     
  14. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    I have talk to Stephen for Off-Road Design about u-joints and I thought he said that he changed them once a month or more depending on how hard he wheeled it that month. So if this was true then every month you should put new u-joints in. If you do that at 50-60 dollars a set that would add up quick on top of the new Moly shafts that you bought and the time that you would have in changing the u-joints. This is why you should put a Dana 60 in and just forget about it. If you are worried about the ground clearance you can always trim about 1" off the bottom of the pumpkin so you will end up with the same ground clearance of the 44. Did I mention that you will get big brakes with the Dana 60 and better stopping power with those bigger brakes. Just somethings to think about.

    Donovan
     
  15. 82Jimmy

    82Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Dana 60, tougher, meaner, heavier, better. my 2 cents

    <font color=blue>If its too loud, your too old.</font color=blue>
    <font color=red>Cameron</font color=red> <font color=green>Burnett</font color=green>
     
  16. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    Warn has the best customer service of a 4x4 Company, and they are honusht, I talked to tthem last thur, or fri.
    they are in fact dropping the ball on the Corp. 10 and 12 bolts, No more new production, whats in stock is all thats
    left. I am sure if you need replacment parts they will come though for your, just keep your paper work(reicpt)
    Good luck
     
  17. Brian 89KBlazer

    Brian 89KBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    I'd have to agree with the Dana 60 vote, Steve. I'm looking at running either 36" or 38" Swampers and from all I've read and seen, the D44 is just not quite up to it. I know lots say they run D44's with no problems but based on the pics from the WHY2K5 run, who wants to be half way up a trail like that and have to be "careful" with the gas?? It's not just the axle shafts either. What about weaker knuckles, smaller spindles and bearings, and weaker tubes and like someone else said, who wants to be changing u-joints every week?

    I know I'm going with the Dana 60 when I get my axles. After all, isn't beefing a 4X4 exactly that; beefing? How is "just barely enough" considered beefing?

    Just my $.02

    Take Care
    Brian
    89KBlazer
     
  18. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    WOW, whata bunch of GREAT opinions!![​IMG]
    So whats the verdict???
    Hmmmm, well lets hear it SteveO???
    Any one ever seen a 6 lug Dana60 front??????

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
    http://burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  19. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I will probably go with the Dana 60, if I want to go up to 38's some day I would already have the axle strengh, and there are times when you can't go easy on the gas, and I have heard Warn is dropping the chrome moly shafts as well. I already have the 14 bolt. [​IMG]

    Steve
     
  20. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    How about the 6 lug Front Dana60?? Do they exsist??
    Should be just a hub swap, if possiable????????

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
    http://burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     

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