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Dana 44 Seal Kit?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SummitXMK, Sep 25, 2001.

  1. SummitXMK

    SummitXMK 1/2 ton status

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    So I am in the middle of swapping axle shafts, ball joints and repacking the bearing when I think. I should just replace the seals while I have it all apart. Does anybody know where I can get a seal kit that has them all. DOes anybody know what ones I need. I was also thinking of replacing the pinion seal. Is this a major deal or just getting it to torque down? Or do I just walk into NAPA and say I need such and such seals. I'm also almost out of money for this project but is there anything else I need to get while its all apart? Do I need special grease for my gun before I pack my bearings or will any good grease do? Thanks guys as usual I am sure you will be a great help.

    SummitXMK

    78 K5 Cheyenne 400 th350 203 With lots of miles
     
  2. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    I just did mine a few months ago.
    Napa has a kit that has all the seals and roller bearing for a wheel end.
    CR makes it.
    If the pinoin seal is not leaking I would leave it alone.

    <font color=green> Too bad ignorance isn't painful </font color=green>
     
  3. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    I'd try checking www.drivetrain.com, and go from there.

    Special thanks to those lost from IAFF Locals 94 and 854 - You shall never be forgotten
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  4. SummitXMK

    SummitXMK 1/2 ton status

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    PowerMAdd How much did the kit run? My seal is leaking slightly and I need this baby to make it through sled season. Is there a special way to do this. does anybody sell a good axle manual that tells you how to do this? Would it also cover my 12 bolt when I get to it. All my bearing are still good I just want to keep the grease and oil in and the water and dirt out.

    78 K5 Cheyenne 400 th350 203 With lots of miles
     
  5. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    I think that it cost me $25 for the kit.
    It came with a hub seal and all the stuff to reseal the spindle.
    It comes with a new roller bearing that fits inside the spindle but if the old one looks good I would leave it be.
    It is a PITA to get out and real easy to damage going back in.
    This kit does not come with the seals that are way down in the tubes.
    As far as a manual . I have a Haynes that is the 67-87 and it shows a pretty good breakdown for minor axle repairs such as pinion seal replacement and hub work.
    I have had mine for so long that I practicly have it memorized.
    14 maybe 16 years.
    Do yourself a favor while the spindle is off and never-sieze the snot out of the mating surface. makes it alot easier to get off down the road.
    See ya

    <font color=green> Too bad ignorance isn't painful </font color=green>
     
  6. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    That kit part number is #SBK-1. Its the same number for the majority of all the parts stores.

    <font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

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  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Complete set of loose seals from Napa for DANA seals will set you back $100. That kit is sounding like a bargin since it comes with the bearings. What you will need in addition to those 2 kits is 2 inner axle seals and a diff cover gasket. That kit may not include the hub to spindle seal.
    The hub end is no big deal but the inner axle seals are a pain. You will have to pull the carrier out to do them. You will proably had to pry the carrier out. the shims are under the bearings so no worry about screwing up the back lash. Just make sure the caps stay on the side they came out of. Now for you 10 bolt folks the shims are outside the bearings so MAKE sure they stay with the side they came out of.
    Take a carefull look at how far into the tube the seals are pressed. Inspect the shaft for wear at the seal. You can elect to not put them in quite as far if you have some serious wear on the shaft where the seal rides. Then take a broom handle and knock them into the pumpkin. Clean out the tubes. You can tack a peice of half moon metal onto a stick and use it as a rake to get the dirt out of the tube. Packing some rags in around the pinion to keep dirt from getting on it and in the pinion bearings is not a bad idea. Wrap a rag over a broom handle and drive it through the tubes till they are clean. Rince the pumpkin out with some brake cleaner to get the dirt out.
    To install the seals get a bunch of socket extensions and have somebody to do the tapping while you keep it lined up on the seal is easist but you can tap them in with a small hammer but be carefull that they do not go in crooked.
    Having the tubes clean is important so that you don't pick up dirt on the end of the shaft when you reinstall it. that dirt will drop right into the carrier bearings and ruin them. Don't forget to put some grease on the seals so they don't burned up before the gear oil get to them to lubricate them. You have to make sure the end of the shaft is somewhat centered in the tube when installing the. Pretty fun with the long side but be very carefull not to knock the seals back out. I usualy get them just into the seals so I can verify the seal didn't move before I install the carrier.
    Installing the carrier will take a little pounding with a rubber mallet ti get it in. once it's in about half way the bearing caps have long enough bolts that they can pull it in the rest of the way. Just make sure it goes in square to the housing.
    Now another thing I would recomend changing if they got some age is the ball joints. The axle shafts have to be out to do this so now's the time.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
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