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Dana 44 vs. Dana 60

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by txfireman110, Nov 11, 2003.

  1. txfireman110

    txfireman110 1/2 ton status

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    I know that a Dana 60 is stronger than a Dana 44, but I also know that they are more expensive. I was trying to figure out just how strong a Dana 44 is. I plan on a 36-38 inch tire (probably 36 or 37) and I aint doing any EXTREME rock crawling. Will a 44 hold up and if so what would be the best match to put in the rear with a 44 in the front, or should I just bear the beatings from my wife and go all out with the D60 and 14ff? /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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  3. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    a Built up D44 would probably hold up to 36 or 37's with not too much horsepower pushing but with a big heavy 38" swamper you would probably have some problems. Run a 14BFF regardless of the front axle.
     
  4. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]thats gross. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Yes he's opening a can of worms but a few suggestions would be better than a picture.
     
  5. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    C'mon, where's the sense of humor? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I was just saying I can see this thread getting ugly really quick.
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    stick with the 44 only if 36" tires are the biggest you EVER want to go. why? cause if you go bigger, its only a matter of time before you install trick 4340 aftermarket shafts, CTM joints etc etc.. and guess what? you just spent more than a D60 woulda cost ya.

    for the rear, ff14b, of course. maybe overkill for 36s... but it'd give ya the piece of mind that you'd always have an axle to get ya home when the lil 44 falls down and goes boom. not to mention that a detroit for it is cheap.

    j
     
  7. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    Run what you have. If it breaks regularly then spend the money for the 60. For the rear I'd stick with the FF, it doesn't get any more affordable than that.
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I agree. Try the 3/4 ton stuff first. I knew I had a heavy right foot so I bought the 1 ton stuff before I went bigger than 35s. I am now running the 35s on the 3/4 ton stuff and am paying the price--but that's ok cause I already have my 1 ton stuff.

    Just keep in mind that once you decide you're hardcore enough for a '60, there are a lot of hidden costs. Also, if you break a D44 or a 10 bolt front, you can probably fix it for less than $100 if it's just shafts or U joints. If you break a D60, you're gonna pay. That's why it's tempting to do the upgrades, which also cost mondo $$$ but will pay for themselves the first time they hold up when the weaker stuff would have broken (D60 spindles, stubs, etc. aren't cheap).

    Now that I've decided to put the '60 in, I want a front locker, crossover, and hydro assist, which is gonna force me to sink a grand into the front axle right off the bat, and that's using a lock-right. If I wanted a detroit and lower gears, I could end up paying even more.

    I personally wouldn't spend any money on the 3/4 ton stuff other than what it costs to install them and put brakes on them and stuff. No sense in plunking down $1k plus for crossover, stronger shafts, CTMs, lockers, gears, etc., if a '60 is planned. Just run what you got, then save your money. All I did was put brakes and balljoints in my axle and I still feel bad about having to throw it away. I can't imagine if I'd invested gears, lockers, CTMs, chromoly shafts, etc., only to throw that stuff away and go D60. So, find one with the gears you want and go with it. 4.10s are common in 3/4 tons and will work out great for 36" tires if you don't have overdrive.
     
  9. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    can't imagine if I'd invested gears, lockers, CTMs, chromoly shafts, etc., only to throw that stuff away and go D60. .

    [/ QUOTE ]
    If you did all that stuff to a 44 or 10 than it would be about the strength of a STOCK 60. Thats the route I may go if I cant find a 60 for cheap. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  10. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    can't imagine if I'd invested gears, lockers, CTMs, chromoly shafts, etc., only to throw that stuff away and go D60. .

    [/ QUOTE ]
    If you did all that stuff to a 44 or 10 than it would be about the strength of a STOCK 60. Thats the route I may go if I cant find a 60 for cheap. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    No and yes. Axle shaft strength? Maybe. The fact that my ball joints wear out once a year on my 10 bolt is just annoying. With a 60 you get bigger bearings, hubs, brakes, ring and pinion, knuckle strength, etc...

    If you were going to run a tube buggy with a 4 cylinder in it the 44 with chromo shafts and ctm's would be the ticket. But lets face it, our trucks are heavy, period.

    My advice is if you ever think you are going to wheel hard, but the 60. They hold their value pretty well. I wish i wouldn't have wasted my money on upgrading my 10 bolt to 8 lug, but I didn't know any better at the time. Now I do, and I'm passing the advice on. I've probably spent more than $250 in replacement shafts and u-joints.

    Get a 60!
     
  11. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    A 36 or 37" tall tire and an open dif or limited slip,no major rock crawling and I think your Dana 44 will last quite a while.Dont get all silly with the go pedal and it will last longer.Put a locker in the front and you will break more stuff.

    I have a Dana 44 with Warn shafts,an ARB, and 37s.Im not a hammer down driver.In the last two trips alone I have broken two inner Warn shafts,one outer,ARB (due to broken shaft),upper and lower ball joints on both sides,and the passenger side inner C on the housing.I have roughly $2200 into my 44 but it was spent a little at a time over the years.I am now building a Dana 60 and I will with out a doubt be into it for twice that of the 44 before its in my truck /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Right now Im at almost $2000 and thats just the Dana 60 its self and a new/used ORD crossover/hi steer setup.I still have to re gear front and rear,get an ARB,and a few other things /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  12. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Geeze! 2K is a lot just for a 60. I won't dump anymore than a grand to MAYBE 1,500. I figure wait and find a steal for a few hundred bucks on a good D60, regear to 4.88's for $500,new warn hubs $100,and new pads, thats almost 1K. I might go ARB but maybe just a good LS. I would leave the shafts stock because with just 35" boggers and my 406 I shouldn't have any breakage problems.
     
  13. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I think you will be fine. I ran 36's on my 10 bolts and just did trails/mud with no problems (250-300 HP). My friend runs 40X15.5X15 Ground Hogs on his D44 and does the same trails with no breakage.

    Just for reference on the price of a D60, I paid....

    $800 for the D60 in POOR condition
    $280 for the gears and install kit
    $200 for a good used Trac Lock
    $100 for a used rock Rod
    $40 or so for new TRE's
    $150 for good TIMKEN wheel bearings and seals (D60 wheel bearings are about 2X the cost of a D44)
    $550 for the gears installed, new U-joints installed in the axle shafts, and the king pins rebuilt (at ITP)


    Then of course you will want to go Cross over steering

    $75 for the X-over steering arm
    $150 for the Drag link
    $45 for the pitman arm
    $130 new 2WD steering Box
     
  14. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    No,I have almost $2k into the 60 AND crossover/hi steer setup together.Thats all I have so far and I aint done yet /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    And in the rocks,there is no such thing as a good limited slip /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Geeze! 2K is a lot just for a 60. I won't dump anymore than a grand to MAYBE 1,500. I figure wait and find a steal for a few hundred bucks on a good D60, regear to 4.88's for $500,new warn hubs $100,and new pads, thats almost 1K. I might go ARB but maybe just a good LS. I would leave the shafts stock because with just 35" boggers and my 406 I shouldn't have any breakage problems.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    New Warn 30 spline D60 hubs, at least $160, not $100

    LS unit, Power-Loc, $550 unless you opt for the 4.88s in which case it's about $400

    2k is a lot to sink into it?

    $500 regear
    $500 for a locker/ls unit
    $100 in u joints
    $100 in brakes
    $300-400 crossover steering
    $300 for redneck ram
    $250 to do the 35 spline upgrade, add $200 if you want hubs instead of flanges

    $2050 for 35 splines, new brakes, locker or ls, gears, crossover, ram setup, and flanges

    That's assuming you dont need kingpins, calipers, hubs....

    The price of a '60 can go through the ROOF VERY QUICKLY!

    Hell I'm gonna buy a crossover setup even before install mine.

    Even if you get a '60 for FREE, it still costs you a good chunk of change to get it installed with all the goodies.

    The good thing about it is that when you're done, you've got a GREAT setup. It's worth the cash, where a D44 or 10 bolt is not.
     
  16. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    can't imagine if I'd invested gears, lockers, CTMs, chromoly shafts, etc., only to throw that stuff away and go D60. .

    [/ QUOTE ]
    If you did all that stuff to a 44 or 10 than it would be about the strength of a STOCK 60. Thats the route I may go if I cant find a 60 for cheap. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'm thinking No on that one. All you are doing is moving the weak point, which would likely be the ring and pinion. The you also have the fact that the dana 44 housing itself is not as strong.

    I bought a dana 44 parts axle that was off a truck with 38's, and it had a cracked pumpkin, ring gear was trashed, long inner shaft/u-joint/stub shaft destroyed. Hard to say what happened to this, but it was under a full size with 38's, so you are taking a risk if you put a lot of money into a dana 44, and I 'don't think you are taking the same risk with a stock dana 60. A built up 44 is a false sense of security.
     
  17. Bullet

    Bullet 1/2 ton status

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    Basically its a win/lose situation, you're going to hear about people that run 44's on 10 bolts and haven't broken a thing. For example, there's a guy here in Abilene that run's 45" Goodyear turf tires on his hillbilly rig and for the most part doesn't break a thing, other than the Driveshaft u-joints.

    Then you're going to hear from people like me that have wasted 1/2 Driveshaft u-joints with 33" Bridgestone Duellers MT. Sure, I didn't do any serious damage to the 10B, but I went with the Dana 60 when I upgraded to 37" SSRs; now I want to go 38-40" tires. At least this way the only thing I have to do to my axles is re-gear.

    I'd try out running the stock 10b front with a 8lug conversion for the front, but as soon as your break more than twice in a day; I'd go for the 60, it'd be worth the money and hassle.

    BTW, I new a guy that went to ACU that ran 38"SXs on his stock 10b with 4.56's and he sheared the pinion off and it went THROUGH the housing. NOT PRETTY!

    P.S. Ted, the guy mentioned above, was just driving to class when this happened and he used his truck only for driving to class and mud. My dad and I were able to get connected with a guy who sells M1008 axles.
     
  18. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    well I personally don't want all that stuff like high steer, tie rod behind the axle,rock this, rock that. I bought my Cherry 10B for 200 bucks, looked like it hadn't even been in 4WD hardly from the inside. All the seals don't leak a drop, ball joints are good, even had fresh brakes on it when I got it! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif Spent 100 bucks for warn hubs, a chrome cover and a little can of black paint and all done for about 350 bucks and under the truck! Granted I got lucky and my 10B probably hardly ever got used under the sub it came out of though. If I wait I will probably come across a 60 for cheap. Heck sled dog said he picked one up for 200 bucks! Here's how I have it priced out:

    Dana 60,$300 or 400(just wait for it)
    uncle regear it, $300 with R&P
    Track lock, $308,installed free with R&P(LS is fine for me, I don't like rocks)
    warn hubs,$160(sorry Tim /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif)
    new pads, $40
    I will ONLY replace what is needed and wore out as far as the rotors,bearings,seals,kingpins,and pads as far as that goes.
    Thats about 1,200 to 1,300 bucks without the above "extra stuff" /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  19. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    New Warn 30 spline D60 hubs, at least $160, not $100

    LS unit, Power-Loc, $550 unless you opt for the 4.88s in which case it's about $400

    2k is a lot to sink into it?

    $500 regear
    $500 for a locker/ls unit
    $100 in u joints
    $100 in brakes
    $300-400 crossover steering
    $300 for redneck ram
    $250 to do the 35 spline upgrade, add $200 if you want hubs instead of flanges

    $2050 for 35 splines, new brakes, locker or ls, gears, crossover, ram setup, and flanges

    That's assuming you dont need kingpins, calipers, hubs....

    The price of a '60 can go through the ROOF VERY QUICKLY!

    Hell I'm gonna buy a crossover setup even before install mine.

    Even if you get a '60 for FREE, it still costs you a good chunk of change to get it installed with all the goodies.

    The good thing about it is that when you're done, you've got a GREAT setup. It's worth the cash, where a D44 or 10 bolt is not.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    Holy sheep $hit Tim, I think thats one of 2 or 3 posts of yours ever that didn't raise my blood pressure. Good info there. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  20. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Dude, what do you think I've been gowing through? I want to get my '60 in, but I'm trying to save my money for all the goodies first!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

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