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dana 60,35 spline outers rub the hubs????

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by leadfoot067, Jun 6, 2004.

  1. leadfoot067

    leadfoot067 1/2 ton status

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    ok so took of my hubs off for inspection after the first wheelin trip with the 60 front and found the outer stubs are rubbing on the inside of the hub...leaving lots of metal in there,and a nice groove on the tip of the stub shaft...im feeling lucky i didnt break the hub body....anybody else have this happen? and what was your solution?
     
  2. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Make sure you are not missing the snap rings that clip onto the end of the axle stubs.
     
  3. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Welcome to 35 spline. The stubs rub on hubs but not most slugs. They are about 1/4" longer than a 30 spline hub. Just shove it up on the grinder and try not to heat it up too much. Shave it down and you are good to go. Either that or convert to slugs (don't work well locked on the street though)
     
  4. leadfoot067

    leadfoot067 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the info,i kinda figured i just needed to take some off of the axle /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    (don't work well locked on the street though)

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sure it would. Just leave your rig in 2wd. I've driven my rig on the road with the hubs locked in tons of times. No issues at all as long as it's in 2wd.

    When I go 35 spline, I'm running the slugs.
     
  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    This is standard for 35 spline stubs with warn hubs. Most places never tell you about it though.
    The stub is the same length as the 30 spline but the smaller shaft sticks in the "cup" of the dial where the 35 spline stub is big enough to hit the edge of the cup.
    Solution is grind the tip down roughly 1/8-3/16" and you should be fine. You may lose the snapring groove and may want to re-cut it on what's left sticking out.
    Driveslugs are fine on the street as long as your driveshaft runs smooth at high speeds (tough to do with a ujointed shaft but typically easy with a CV) and you don't mind the extra drag and wear of running that shaft, the diff, axles, etc all the time. You kind of step back to the old 203/quadratrac days but it can work.
     
  7. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't had any pavement time with the hubs locked in 2wd yet. I just noticed when on dirt (hubs locked in 2wd) I could feel the steering more due to the front locker. I assumed it would be very noticable if not irritating on the street. But I haven't tried it yet. Maybe I will this week so I can be more informed.
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I've drove at highway speeds (70 mph or so) with hubs locked in and never felt a thing.

    Maybe I'm missing something though, I never notice it much off road either unless I'm in sloppy stuff.
     
  9. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I did get some feedback from my lockright in the front, typically only on icy roads where there wasn't a lot of friction to keep the front tires doing their own thing. This was while running in 2wd with the hubs locked.
    Now with the CV jointed front driveshaft and ARB in the front, driveslugs are not a problem but Wally doesn't see much street use anymore.
     
  10. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not sure how old this post is, but what about using a thicker inner wheel bearing race. I'm not stealing Stephen's thunder...it was his suggestion to me and I will be trying it soon enough. I have no desire to grind down superior chromoly stubs even with the assurance that it will not affect the warranty. I'll save that for a last resort. Stephen, want to add to this?
     
  11. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Yup, you can look into that too, but I still don't have the exact number for that race and I don't know that it's a 100% fix, although it goes the right direction. I think it's a D60 carrier bearing race. I have another idea too but it's not ready yet.
     
  12. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Wouldn't that just shift the centerline of the u-joints inboard farther then the centerline of the king pins? I would think that would cause some binding while turning? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  13. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    I think you might be confused. All we are discussing is using a thicker race on the inner wheel bearing. Doing so would keep the axles, spindle, and steering the same. It would only move the bearing hub a little farther away from the knuckle. In my case, a small amount is all that is needed to keep the stub from contacting the hub dial.
     
  14. keith

    keith 1/2 ton status

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    Now that you mention it yes you are right. I held them side by side and they are the same except thickness. It would work using the carrier race than the original. Do a search we did this about a year ago and posted part #'s
     
  15. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    So you actually did the swap and it cured your problems? And it was a D60 carrier bearing swapped for the inner wheel bearing? I may get this done in the next week or so...I really need to repack the bearings anyway.


    On a side note, when are you gonna put the Blazer back together? We need a good wheelin buddy.
     

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