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dana 60 or 10 bolt with CTMs and alloy axles

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by DesertDueler, Dec 25, 2002.

  1. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    What would you guys do. I dont do anything real hardcore in the burb, like I did with my Jimmy. The specs on the burb are 350, 700r4, NP208, 12 bolt rear, 10 bolt front. Both axles have 4.56s. Tires are 38.5x14.50/15 Sxs. I will mostly play in the sand, mud, and some rocks, but its too big for serious rocks. Is a dana 60 worth it, or do the stuff to me 10 bolt? BTW with my old Jimmy I never broke a stock 10 bolt front axle on 35s being locked with 4.56s if that makes a difference.

    Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  2. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    Well I figured out that If I do everything to the 10 bolt, it would cost about $3,500. Thats converting to 8 lug, crossover steering, Rock Ram hydro assist, Arb locker and air compresor, CTM u-joints, and warn alloy axles. Going to a dana 60 would be about $4,100 as long as it comes with brakes in good shape. The $4,100 includes the dana 60 (est. 1,100), crossover steering, Rock Ram steering, 4.56 gears and install kit, ARB locker and air compressor, manual locking hubs, dana 60 mounting plates, and u-bolts. That price will go up if I have to replace any bearings, u-joints or brakes. So it will cost at least 600 more to go to a 60. That and the 60 will add just that much more weight to my burb. HELP!!!!!!!!

    Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  4. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    D60. running 38's with a 10B you will just move the weak link to the R&P or something worse.
     
  5. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    I would definately upgrade the axles for peace of mind. Look for stuff for cheap, and think outside the box. All of this one ton stuff "I've got to change to 8 lug" is BS. TonyP on here is converting a 14FF to 6 lug. And as for the $$$ issue, look around. I read the local ads all the time and every few weeks, a 14FF shows up for $100. And as for RockRam, lockers and the like. Just go along with the flow as you can afford it. You can still have fun in a stocker, but you have to know the vehicle's limitations and don't overextend those limitations.
     
  6. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    I never included a 14 FF in either one of the prices. Thats even more money. I am worried on what I sould do for the front, so I can decide on converting the front to 8-lug if I stay 10 bolt, or converting the 14 FF to 6 lug. And well if I go 60 I wont have to convert anything, but my bank acount /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  7. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    You don't have to buy new axles, shop cheap.
     
  8. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    You mean buy used 10 botl alloy axles?
     
  9. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    No. What I mean is be on the lookout. I know one guy that just bought a 14FF for $75. That's what I'm talking about.
     
  10. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Re: dana 60 or 10 botl with CTMs and alloy axles

    Yea, now if I could find a complete dana 60 for $500. I can get a 14 FF for 150with 4.10 gears, so finding and getting a 14FF isnt the problem, its the front. Either way its alot of money.

    Dan
     
  11. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Money spent "upgrading" 1/2 ton axles is just wasted money, IMHO. Seriously, $3500 vs $4100, you're talking about $600 on top of $3500, that's really not that much more. Do the 60 and never look back. I speak from experience here, I beefed my D44 up as much as possible to run 38s on it and started breaking R&amp;Ps, and that's the kind of breakage that you can't fix on the trail. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif </font color>
     
  12. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    Go with the 60. The most important thing to have with big tires is big brakes. A 10 bolt will never give you that. You can use slotted rotors and good pads, but if you ever look at a 60 brake pad and think of the weight of your truck the choice will be easy.
     
  13. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Want something that will not break...even a stock D60?

    Get the CTM joints for a D60, Moser inner and outer shafts, and the locker of your choice along with the gear ratio and call it done. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    You can still break a dana 60 with CTMs and Moser axles. King pins still break. I knowthere was someone on the website from here in AZ that took a Marv line and broke a 60. Buts Marvs dana 44 held up /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  15. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    It really depends on you. I like my D60 and knowing that it can always be upgraded with the high dollar alloy parts if I start breaking the stock stuff. I also like the big brakes and king pin design. I like knowing that my 44's arent gonna overload the bearings. If you are never going bigger than the 38's and you aren't gonna do excessively harsh wheeling, keep it. If you are unsure, get the 60. The worst thing you can do will be to spend all that $$$ on a 10bolt and then keep breaking it.
     

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