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DANA 60, QUALITY U-JOINTS??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by COLLISION, Oct 9, 2002.

  1. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    What brand of u-joint would you guys running dana 60 axles recommend.
    Something in an acceptable price range.
    I don't plan on doing major rock crewling with the truck.
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Spicer or Neapco...I've had good luck with both. CTM's and 35 spline outers if you win the lotto. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Rene
     
  3. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Rene,

    Next time I'm in vancouver I'll have to take you for a beer.
    /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  4. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    The forged spicers 5-733x They are about 30 to 50 each depending on where you get them.

    Depdog
     
  5. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I heard the stubs or hubs will go before the u joints so I think a plain old pair of non greasable spicers should be ok.
     
  6. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    I just ordered the spicers from Depdogs post.
    I went with non greasable they were about 30.00 cheaper than greasable ones.I could not imagine getting to the grease fitting anyhow while they are in the axle.
    Thanks for the info guys. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    I have the greasable ones and they are very easy to get to. Does not matter though, to each his own.

    Depdog
     
  8. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

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    i say greaseable because i had to replace my wheel joints because they didnt have any grease in them /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif, because the 4wd wasnt used much on my truck and they kinda just dried up and started makeing krinkleing sounds, as the seal went and the bearings started falling out /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif, and to think that i used the 4wd when there was mud and no bearings left in the wheel joints /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif, but that is spicer for you, i got greaseable u-joints in there, i grease them once in a while when i splashe through water mad style, id go greaseable, better all around, and all you gotta do is get under there with a grease gun and needle tip and greaase it insted of having to replace the whole joint when it runs out of grease /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif. good luck.
    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  9. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> The whole greasable vs. nongreasable debate pretty much boils down to opinion, but the facts tend to shift me towards the non-greasables.

    The problem that I see with the greasable ones is that the seals are designed to let grease pass through them when you lube them. Logic dictates that if grease can get out, then water can get in. The non greasable ones have a much better seal on them, it's got like 3 different lips on it and it snaps solidly into place on the cross. Nothing is gettnig through those seals if they are in good condition.

    The greasable ones hypothetically lose a little bit of strength from the hole that has to be cast into the cross to allow grease to get to all of the caps, but this is probably a minor strength loss in the real world. Non greasable ones have no hole, so there is no loss in strength.

    I've never seen the grease "dry up" in a non-greasable u-joint, unless the joint was original and the seals were toast, in which case it's your own fault for not doing better maintenance on the truck. On the other hand, forget to grease a greasable one for a while and after a few trips you're going to have a wasted joint on your hands.

    I ran non-greasables for 2 years in all sorts of terrain that is hard on u-joints - mud, deep water, and lots of sand. When they finally broke after 2 years (after getting a l/s for the front /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)the grease inside was still nice and clean, not contaminated in the least.

    If you can't tell yet, I like spicer non greasables for the steering joints. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif</font color>
     
  10. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    Just got the spicer non-greasable joints, I'm used to my little 10 bolt up front.These things are absolutley massive, I'm thinking an engine rebuild will be necessary just to turn these axle shafts and joints.
    Oh by the way I was playin with the u-joint and heard the loud click noise of the seals engaging, hope I can still pull the caps off to put them into the axles.
    That would be just my luck to break the damn thing before I get to install it. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  11. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    your anus lets stuff out but doesnt let water in.

    the difference is if water gets in a greaseable ujoint you can remove it with a few pumps of a grease gun
     
  12. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Damn, m j.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif

    I was gonna post a question on pricing, but found this thread. Just finished getting a spare joint from Napa, 51 bucks total- For ONE..... Thought I was gonna have a heart attack /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    So where you guys gettin the 30 dollar ones?
     
  13. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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  14. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    What statement? Sometimes I can be as dumb as a box of rocks /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  15. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    Dana vs Spicer
    the ones that are real Spicers have a 5 prefix
    the other line is refered to as Dana or Perfect Circle and they are not as nice
    the seals on the Spicer boxed ones are supposed to be silicon

    I paid $96.93cdn each for the spl55-4x life series greaseable wheel joints.
    highway robbery.
    but if they last better then the 10 years the OEM non greasables did...
     
  16. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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    This one.

    Dana Spicer's OEM joints satisfy all three requirements, but many of their after-market products do not.

    Neapco's "PD" (Performance Dynamics ) joints also satisfy our three requirements.

    &lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; PD joint

    The best part - They utilize a double lipped seal that snaps into place and will keep the moving parts of the UJ from contamination. This is exactly what a 4x4 needs.
     

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