Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Dana44 front versus 10 bolt

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 88jimmy4x4, Nov 8, 2003.

  1. 88jimmy4x4

    88jimmy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2003
    Posts:
    947
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Im thinking of buying a Dana44 from a member here (really good deal) but I would like to know what are the advantages of a Dana44 versus a 10 bolt for the front?
    Instant advantages for me is the fact its setup with the gear ratio I need, but other than that....why is it better?

    Also, how had of an install will it be to swap these?, will it be a plug-n-play sorta deal? brake lines, u-bolts, spring pad locations...etc?
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    There is no advantage of a D44 over a 10 bolt front. Both use the same size u joint and that's the weakest spot.
     
  3. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2003
    Posts:
    2,334
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Davenport, Ia
    Easy swap....Only real advantages I can think of for a 44 over a 10b is more gear ratios to choose from and more diffs to pick from.

    Pull the cover and save yourself and the seller some headache. I JUST came back from pulling the cover off the one I had bought to find half the ring gear teeth missing. Will my swap ever occur????
     
  4. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2002
    Posts:
    908
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hancock, MI
    The only advantage a Dana 44 has over a 10 bolt is the fact that the differential case is made of nodular iron instead of gray cast iron. On a Dana 44 it is a toss-up as to which will happen first: case breaks or 3/8" thick tube bends. On a 10 bolt the case always breaks first and relatively easily.

    Other than that, the shafts are made of the same 1040 steel and the universals are the same. The knuckles out are identical so there's no difference there.

    The rest is pretty much identical too. Ring gear and pinion shaft diameters are very similar and so is the hypoid mesh. The carrier of a Dana 44 is supposed to be stronger but I haven't seen any proof either way.

    Dana 44 parts are starting to get pretty rare. 10 bolt parts were around from 76-78 (I've seen a 10 bolt ring gear stamped October 1976) until 91.
     
  5. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2002
    Posts:
    9,097
    Likes Received:
    144
    Location:
    california
    [ QUOTE ]

    I JUST came back from pulling the cover off the one I had bought to find half the ring gear teeth missing.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gifI can't believe you didn't check out the diff before you bought it! I have bought 2 different sets of used axles and checked both front and rear diffs every time. It would be very risky and costly to not check the most important and expensive part of an axle. Bummer about the teeth man. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Goes to show how important pulling the cover before you hand over the cash is.
     
  6. 88jimmy4x4

    88jimmy4x4 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2003
    Posts:
    947
    Likes Received:
    3
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Thanks guys, the diffs from a CK5 member so I trust him.

    Guess I will have to think about this one /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  7. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2002
    Posts:
    2,482
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle, WA 98103
    If it has the gears you want, go for it!!! Otherwise the axles are pretty similar and you DO NOT want to invest in gears and install on either axle. My belief to these axles is to put as little money into them as possible or down the road you will be kickin yourself.
     
  8. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2003
    Posts:
    2,334
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Davenport, Ia
    Ah very true indeed....I am lucky the guy is going to make it right. What caused the failure is the bolts holding the Power Lock together starting backing out allowing the diff to wobble. The whole thing only has one run on it.

    True you shouldn't really trust anyone. I think of this guy as a CK5 member (although he isn't) and both ways there is a very good chance that discrepencies will be dealt with in a fair fashion.

    As usual, buyer beware......
     
  9. OffRoadOhio

    OffRoadOhio Registered Member

    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2003
    Posts:
    87
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lancaster Ohio
    I heard soemthing about 10bolts snapping becuase fo the spring setup? What is that all about and is it true?
     
  10. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2002
    Posts:
    3,381
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    So. CA
    [ QUOTE ]
    Ah very true indeed....I am lucky the guy is going to make it right. What caused the failure is the bolts holding the Power Lock together starting backing out allowing the diff to wobble. The whole thing only has one run on it.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    MISF had the same thing happen to his front Powrlok. Killed the R&P also. If you're gonna run that diff, do yourself a favor. Drill the bolts for safety wire, Torque all to spec, degrease and use Red Locktite plus the safety wire. Might use a AN flat washer on each bolt, do not use a lock washer of any sort.
     
  11. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2003
    Posts:
    2,334
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Davenport, Ia
    Thanks for that information....I am definately gonna try something different.
     

Share This Page