Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

death wobble on a 93 suburban!?!?! wtf

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ilikeitloud, Jan 26, 2005.

  1. ilikeitloud

    ilikeitloud 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2003
    Posts:
    134
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    edina, minnesota 55424
    never heard of the death wobble on an ifs rig before. my buddy has 3" bl lift 2" blocks in the rear and cranked the t-bars up a little bit and 35s. when goin down the street at about 25-30 and its starts the death wobble hardcore. we replaced all the steering components and still not any better. what could be the issure??
     
  2. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2001
    Posts:
    2,781
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mesa, Arizona
    DW... part dieux

    Balljoints, wheel bearings.... steering box.

    Anything that could be worn out and provide some looseness to the front end.

    :confused: This IS the first I've heard about it on an IFS rig.

    Marv
     
  3. dheavychevy38

    dheavychevy38 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2003
    Posts:
    1,003
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Algonquin,illinois
    i had it on a 1997 3/4 ton it needed balljoints and sway bar links
     
  4. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    May 30, 2004
    Posts:
    6,706
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Murrieta, California
    I had the same scary issue with my 98. After many hours of reasearch and talking to Tom Allen at PSC i figured it out. I did a big write up on it that you can find over at FSC. Or when i get home from work i can post it here too. It covers pretty much everything about the IFS chevy steering system.
     
  5. joefl

    joefl 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2004
    Posts:
    153
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Marianna, Florida
    had the same problem

    I had the same problem on my 95 Z71 when I put on lift and tires come to find out my steering box was gone. So I got a new steering box and also got an steering stablizer and it drove perfect.
     
  6. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

    Joined:
    May 14, 2004
    Posts:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Redding, CA
    I have dual steering stabilizers on my 88 straight axle... can't really feel em on the street but once you hit some ruts at 15 mph in 4lo you will understand why they're there real quick. Keeps the wheel from jerking out of your hands.
     
  7. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    May 30, 2004
    Posts:
    6,706
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Murrieta, California
    Steering system check for full-size IFS Chevy trucks (With or without EVO) by “ReadyMix”





    Listed below are the components you will check in the order you will check.

    ~EVO System is discussed at the end.


    Wheel Bearings

    --Place the truck on jack stands.

    --Spin the wheel around and listen for any noise other than what is caused by the brakes.

    --With one hand on the top and the other on the bottom of the wheel, move the wheel in and out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement the wheel bearings will need servicing or replacement. Wheel bearings can only be serviced on 2WD trucks



    Ball joints

    --Remove wheel

    --Place floor jack under the LCA and lift slightly.

    Upper Ball Joint

    --Using a screwdriver or pry bar, pry up on the UCA and look for slop on the ball joint.

    --Wiggle the knuckle around and again look for slop in the ball joint.

    Lower Ball Joint

    --Measure the distance between the tip of the ball joint stud and the back side of the ball joint (or grease

    fitting if installed).

    --Now lower the jack and re-measure the ball joint again. If the difference is more than 3/32” you must replace the lower ball joint.



    If either of the ball joints are bad I recommend changing them both while you have it apart.



    Now reinstall the wheels and lower the truck.



    For the remainder of the check you will need the assistance of a friend.



    Inner and outer Tie rods, Pitman arm, Sector Shaft Bushings, idler arm and associated bushings



    --Remove the front differential skid plate and cross member skid plate if so equipped.

    --Have your friend move the steering wheel back and forth a few inches. Not enough to move the tires but enough to put force on all of the steering components. It may or may not be necessary to have the truck running for this. I usually leave the engine off with the key in the run position.

    --Look for any play in the above listed components.



    The sector shaft is what the Pitman Arm attaches to on the steering box. The sector shaft should start to rotate a little but should have zero side-to-side movement. Side to side movement indicates that the sector shaft bushings are bad.

    The idler arm is on the opposite fame rail but in the same location as the steering box. The check for the idler arm mount is the same as for the sector shaft.

    There are 4 tie rod ends to check, 2 on each side. One attaches to the center link and the other to the steering knuckle. If there is any play they should be replaced. The tie rods should also be checked by pushing up and then pulling down on them while looking for play.



    All of the above listed parts are relatively simple to change if found bad with the exception of the sector shaft bushings. If they are found to be bad it is easier to replace the steering box. Usually when they are bad the truck will experience what is known as “DEATH WOBBLE”. It is much like bump steer except it is uncontrollable usually between 20-40 Mph.



    Three things can cause a crooked steering wheel.

    1.[font=&quot] [/font]The tie rods ends were not properly adjusted for steering center when the truck was last aligned.

    2.[font=&quot] [/font]The Keyway splines are twisted on the input shaft of the steering box (not easily repairable, steering box must be replaced or rebuilt)

    3.[font=&quot] [/font]The splines on the sector shaft could be twisted. Keep in mind that the standard Chevy Saginaw type steering gear has a 16:1 reduction ratio. So if the splines were twisted by only 2 degrees the steering wheel would be off by 32 degrees. I don’t know about you but I have not been able to visually tell if the splines are twisted by that small of an amount.



    Free play in the steering wheel should not be adjusted by messing with the lash adjuster. This is to set the preload in the steering gear. If you don’t know what you are doing here I suggest that you leave it alone.



    On the top of the steering box you will see 4 hex head 10mm bolts holding on an access cover. In the center of the access cover there is an adjustment screw with a counter tightening nylock nut.



    The following adjustments must be made with drag link disconnected from pitman arm and flange removed from worm shaft.

    Loosen lock nut and turn lash adjuster screw all the way in (clockwise), then out (counterclockwise) three turns. This will remove load imposed on worm bearings by close meshing of rack and sector teeth.

    Using a socket on steering gear worm shaft, turn shaft from one stop all the way to the other carefully counting total number of turns.

    NOTE: Do not turn hard against stops when drag link is disconnected as damage to ball guides may result.

    Turn the shaft back one-half total number of turns to center position and using an inch-pound torque wrench, measure pull required to keep worm shaft in motion through center position. This should be 1-1/2 - 5-1/2 inch pounds. If indicated pull does not lie between given limits, make the following adjustments:

    a. Loosen lock nut

    b. Turn adjuster until required resistance to pull is reached.

    c. Tighten lock nut and recheck pull. It must lie between limits specified after lock nut is tightened.



    Note: Turn lash adjuster screw clockwise to remove lash and counter-clockwise to increase lash from gear teeth.







    EVO System



    The EVO system automatically adjusts the required steering effort in relation to engine RPM or vehicle speed. Delphi’s “variableeffort” steering systems incorporate a controller (The sensor on your steering column) that varies electrical current to the actuator device (The EVO valve mounted in the reservoir of you PS pump) with changes in vehicle speed.



    The Electronic Variable Orifice (EVO) system changes steering effort by regulating fluid flow from the power steering pump.



    During parking maneuvers, the actuator provides high pump flow for easier steering effort. At highway speeds, the actuator reduces flow in proportion to vehicle speed for improved highway feel and stability.






    If power to the solenoid or control valve actuator is lost, the valve keeps the bypass circuit closed so full power assist is provided under all driving conditions. The only indication of trouble, therefore, might be a loss of road feel and/or increased steering sensitivity at highway speeds.

    It’s important to remember that variable-rate power steering only reduces the amount of pressure that reaches the steering gear at higher road speeds. The only way it could reduce power assist at low speed would be in the unlikely event the actuator or solenoid valve failed in the open position. This could cause a noticeable reduction or loss of power assist.

    Troubleshooting the EVO sensor

    First, disconnect the three-wire connector from your steering wheel speed sensor.

    Next, with your key in the OFF position, use a digital multi-meter to test for resistance between your CKT 1057 (ORN/BLK) and CKT 1059 (LT BLU) wires.

    Then, rotate your steering wheel slowly from lock to lock and record the highest reading.

    If the reading is above 12K ohms, you'll have to replace your steering wheel speed sensor and bearing assembly with a General Motors sensor kit (P/N 26064468), $36.19 from WWW.GMPartsDirect.com at time of writing.
     
  8. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    those things are known for tire rod and idler arms. They are up in the frame so no one ever bothers to look at them or grease them.
     

Share This Page