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Decisions, Decisions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Aug 11, 2001.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    My truck, as it is, is getting a new frame, box, cab corners, rockers, fenders, and inner fenders.

    I want to lift it more too and would consider bigger tires.

    Right now I've got a 700R4, NP 208, 4.10 gears, and 35" tires.

    I am thinking of swapping to SM 465, NP 205, and keeping my gears and going with 37-38" tires.

    I also want to lift it more as my tires do rub. I have a 4" now. I'm thinking I want a 6". But since my cab will be off anyway, I want to do at least a 1" body lift. All my friends want me to do a 3" body. I'm worried my truck will look silly with 7" of lift and 35s, though. I was thinking I wanted 6+1 with 37s, but now I'm just not sure. I am NOT cutting my fenders, but I want it a little bigger because my friends all run 38s, 39.5s, or 44s. I absolutely refuse to cut my fenders. I think it looks horrible and while I'm interested in off-road performance, my truck is going to look almost like a show truck when this is over and I am not going for the cut fender look. One of my friends even has 44s without cutting the fenders. I don't want it so big it's not streetable though.

    So, what do I do? Wait for the manual tranny until I can get an NV4500 or do it now? How much more should I lift it? Should I leave it at 4", add the 1" body, and just do the shackle flip out back?

    My friends all have huge trucks. They like huge tires. I want something streetable. I said I'd never go bigger than 35s but these are just not big enough for me. I want 37s, truthfully. Will an SM 465, 4.10s, and 37s work well? If so, what's the best way to make them clear?

    Okay guys, I REALLY need your help.

    Somehow I think my best bet is either 4+1 and 35s, or 6+1, keep my 35s, AND get a set of bias 37s for the mud.

    I only do mud, trails, and ruts. I don't do sand or rocks at all.

    What do you guys think? I'm just stumped.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  2. flcpl4fn

    flcpl4fn 1/2 ton status

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    sounds like you have alot of work ahead of you. as for the lift, i think you may want to lift it higher if you don't want to cut your finders. i have an 8" lift on mine and i have 38's and my tires rub alot. don

    '85 Jimmy in Jax, Fl
     
  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, 84...... First thing you need to consider is the "actual" height of the tires you want to run. If you have a 4" now and want to run 37's, I'd say go with the 3" body lift since you dont want to hack at the fenders.
    As for the manual tranny swap, I'd install the lift first, this will make it alot easier to replace the tranny. Also when your setting up your new tranny mounts, linkage, etc etc, it would be best to have the body setting where you want it. As well as making it easier to access all the tranny bolts. The 3" lift will give you all the rooom you need to do all the work for the tranny conversion.

    Does anyone have a grinding disk I can borrow?[​IMG]3/4 in progress[​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  4. white_knight

    white_knight 1/2 ton status

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    I had a 6" suspension lift with a 3" body lift with 38.5x11 boggers. No fender cutting .
    The truck didn't look ridiculous and was very streetable.
    I would go 6+3 with the 37's . You will have some good room for the tires.

    I am a mud gal also and as for an np205/m465 and 410 gears, you will rock with that set up and those size tires.




    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.whiteknight.scriptmania.com/>http://www.whiteknight.scriptma
    nia.com
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  5. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I'd definately listen to ANY suggestions white knight has got! they know what they are doing.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
     
  6. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    4.10 is not enough gear for 38s. well maybe in Alta but the rest of the world has hills. you can live with 4.10 but certainly they dont 'ROCK'. maybe more liveable with an auto but having to use low on the 465 to leave a stoplight on a hill blows. 4.88-4.56 would be a better bet but you have to weigh the cost:benefit. highway cruise is nicer with 4.10
     
  7. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

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    Personally, i'd cut your fenders
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    ...LOL I'm just pullin your chain...good luck with whatever you decide.

    Sherman, Tx
    <font color=red>Come Awn yall...Let's go to LUCHENBACH, TEXAS!!!
    </font color=red>
     
  8. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    fresh 10" springs 2" body 38.5/16/16.5- went 10" because the 8" would sometimes peel the inner fenders forward. not certain but the d60 might have given a bit of hieght as well. problem probably could have been cured with longer front shackles (which are NECESSARY to keep spring from pounding frame on compression)
    <a target="_blank" href=http://wsphotofews.excite.com/015/FO/id/5A/rB14779.jpg>http://wsphotofews.excite.com/015/FO/id/5A/rB14779.jpg</a>
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Now I'm thinking--keep these 35s for a while so I can get other things done. I think with 4.10 gears I could run 37" tires no problem. I have an overdrive now with 35s and it does just nicely.

    My friend has a Suburban on 44s with an SM 465 and 4.56s and that thing can cruise at high speed like you wouldn't believe.

    I think 6" is the max on I want to go on suspension lift. I guess, supposing I did swap in the SM 465/NP 205, I could go bigger because I lose the slip yoke tranny, but I don't want my pinion angles to be all that insane.

    I really, really can't stand body lifts, but if I take my cab off I'd find it hard not to put at least the 1" ORD on. So I think I'm going to do that.

    So, what I'm thinking is, 6" Tuff Country springs up front and my friend's homeade shackle flip out back (believe me guys, one of my friends has the homeade one and another has the ORD. The homemade one is every bit as good). Do the 1" ORD body lift. Keep my 35s for a while since I have them already and I need money to do other things. Then, when I'm finished with everything else paint, interior, etc. Then consider 36s or 37s. If tires don't clear then, add 3" body or 8" suspension.

    I'm thinking that with 6+1, 35s won't look that silly and I'll have room for "future investments" and I can keep my new 35s until at least next year, then go with a set of 36x14.50 TSL Radials or SSRs in a similar size.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  10. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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  11. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    If you're going that far look for an early trans tunnel. These bolted in and make things like trans swapps much easier. I don't know the exact years they came on but both my '73 &amp; '80 have them.
    If your 35s rub with a 4" lift, then 37s will most likely rub with a 7" (6+1) lift. You sound like you realy want the 37s and since you want to build a mud truck the best option would be a combo of small things. Skip the big body lift it won't keep the frame out of the mud. The 1" and some new body bushings will make a difference. Six inch springs are plenty soft enough for a good street ride. Next, make (or buy) some longer front shackles, they will let the new springs work and give lift at rate of half the length, I'm thinking 3" for a 1.5" lift would be about right. That gives a little over 8" total for the front. Out back a 4" shackle flip and a 4" spring will ride good, then do your fine tuning with a small block 1" or 2" If you need more than that use a longer rear shackle, too.
    Thats my $0.02, just remember its your truck don't let your friends talk you into building something you don't want/need.


    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
    Tread Lightly!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com>www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  12. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    All of these opinions look good to me.(cut fenders) Personaly, I like 'em as low as I can get, and still clear the tire. (cut fenders) But, If you want to go with 37" tires, check out Steve's project UAV. (cut fenders) From the pics, it looks sweet with cut fenders. A 3" body lift is out- It's just too much, the frame hangs way too low. The 1" body lift from ORD is THE way to go for sure! (cut fenders) Too each his or her own! (cut the friggin fenders)

    <font color=white>It's good to be out</font color=white>
    <font color=white>Out of my mind and out of control</font color=white>
    <font color=blue>Twiztid</font color=blue>
     
  13. white_knight

    white_knight 1/2 ton status

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    He said he was into the mud.
    Obviously you want lower gears, If I had my choice I'd be running 586's but from my experience 410's with an m 465 worked.
    I had 410's when I ran 38.5x11 boggers, 39.5" boggers and the present 44" boggers.

    When I had the 38/5 " boggers , I had a 305.
    I had no problem running trails in the rockies. Climbing steep hills, going down, doing the mud holes. Obviously with 38.5 I got stuck more often than now but the combo worked.

    I still have 410's and I'm running 44" boggers. The difference now is that the new 468 is pulling me through and turning the meats.

    You know, you can get away with a lot more with that manual tranny. I've seen trucks with the same combo with an automatic do pretty bad.


    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.whiteknight.scriptmania.com/>http://www.whiteknight.scriptma
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  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Why do I need a different trans tunnel? I already have a 4wd cab. What's the difference?

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  15. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>The manual trans tunnel is taller than the auto trans tunnel. I say cut the fenders. The higher you go the more $$$ it costs (CV shafts, cutting and turning the front axle). Sure tall trucks may look cooler going down main st on friday night but a slightly lower truck with adjusted sheetmetal will work better, even in the mud and thats what counts. Have you looked into fiberglass fenders and bedsides? Theres a guy on here who put them on his K5 and they have bigger openings and extend further over the tires. They're $$$ and I wouldnt put them on my truck since I run tight trails with big rocks but for a mud/show truck they would be cool. Also, have you considered Bushwacker cut-out flares? My dad has an 81 K10 converted to 1 ton with a 6" lift, 38x15x15 TSLs and cut outs. He trimmed a little to fit the flares (they're bigger than the wheel openings) but it looks good. Theres a guy around my town with a shinny K5 on 35" swampers. He has a 4" lift and a 1" body lift with no trimming. </font color=blue>
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    How much higher for the manual trans tunnel?

    "even in the mud and thats what counts"

    BS. I'm not cutting my fenders. I don't care if my truck has a higher center of gravity. I don't care what it costs. I'm keeping this truck FOREVER. I'm restoring it to better than factory shape. And although I'm an offroader, this is my daily driver. If this was a mud truck only, I'd hack it all to hell, but it's NOT, and I want it to look good. I might get fender flares, but for now we're going to assume that I'm lifting my truck with the intent of NOT cutting the fenders.

    My 4" and 35s rub just a hair, so I don't doubt what you said.

    We'll see. First I've got to get the tranny. Then I'll worry about the rest. I'm thinking 6+1, keep my 35s for a little while, then move up and decide on lift from there.

    I need to get an SM 465/NP 205 too. I don't have one. I refuse to have an automatic any more.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  17. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    The reason I said to go with the other tunnel is it bolts in instead of being spot-welded in. It just makes maintance easier. Everything I have seen with an NP208 had the welded in tunnel with an attached shifter. The NP203 &amp; 205 have a hole in the tunnel and the shifter is attached to the case. Just thinking if you have gone as far as swapping all that steel and are considering a tranny/case swap in the future, this would be an easy mod that will speed up that future swap.

    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
    Tread Lightly!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com>www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  18. Brian 89KBlazer

    Brian 89KBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    You go Tim!!!!! LOL!! [​IMG][​IMG]

    I happened to be to your way of thinking &amp; have similar plans! I'm building my own frame &amp; have to replace the floors front &amp; rear. The tunnel note is interesting though!

    I happen to like (love) the look of the Blazer body &amp; don't want to cut mine either. I'm hoping to do just enough lift to clear my 37's under flex without having to trim. I'm not knocking anyone who does it but how can we all brag about what a great vehicle the Blazer is if we swap out the engine, tranny, axles, driveline &amp; then hack the body to pieces? What's left to call a Blazer??? Just my humble opinion!!

    Another point about all this "bashing you body to pieces" is what ever happened to driving off-road with skill &amp; finesse?? I would think that it demonstrates a lot more skill driving a trail without bashing rocker panels than just smacking into &amp; scraping over every obstacle on the trail??!!??[​IMG][​IMG] The 4x4 mags used to promote this too up til a few years ago; now a smashed fender adds character??

    To each his own, I guess

    Brian
    89KBlazer

    Build it Right or Don't build it at all!!
     
  19. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    AMEN Brian!
    Seems like alot of rock crawlers are so intent on going through openings the heaps go through and figure if the truck looks like a POS well might as well hammer through it. I will say that there are a lot of guys w/ beautiful rigs that crawl w/ the best of them... just two that jump out at this second are Steve's UAV and Steve Frisbie's truck... I definetly agree w/ the using skill and finesse and don't be afraid to backdown or get someone w/ a winch if it means keeping a body panel.

    I am in the same kinda view point as well... Tim and I are in the same area of the country and both drive our rigs daily. I mostly end up in mud and minor trails, but you do want to be able to do some flexing for trails and just for flat out daily driving too. I believe minor triming can look every bit as good as a stock truck if not better. Look at Steve's UAV and tell me his fender cutting is not nicely done and his rig is gorgeous. Plus if you are talking 37 or 38's the wheel is starting to become as big if not bigger then the wheel well opening so that means mucho lift. #1 thing I think that will help you keep up w/ your buddys will be a set of boggers to swap on before you go. I used to run w/ alot of guys in mud pits and they all had 44's... made the 38's on the old Bronco seem puny!

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</a>
     
  20. chevyboy24598

    chevyboy24598 1/2 ton status

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    7" of lift will not look stupid with 35s! I'm running 9" of lift with 33s and I like it!


    Rust=Good
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.bodatious.com> bodatious </a>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.mudboggingfun.homestead.com> my site </a>
     

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