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Difference between solid axle and IFS truck rear spring pack center pins?

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by AJMBLAZER, Mar 8, 2001.

  1. AJMBLAZER

    AJMBLAZER Better to be lucky than good. Premium Member

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    Okay, I got my ORD 0 rate-add-a-leaves today. Nice stuff. Well made, finish is good, and even included some looooong center pins. All for $38 from Colorado to SoCal.

    Anyways, they are designed for the 73-87(91) solid axle trucks, but I talked to Stephen at ORD and he said they should work, but I might have to get a different center pin. I have looked at them, and the centerpin seems to be the same width, so I doubt I will have any problems with the width of the hole in it not being big enough.
    What I want to know is does anyone know if the heads of the centerpins are the same size between the 73-73(91) and 88-98 trucks?
    That is the only part I am really worried about. I am planning on doing it myself, but I will only have one day to do it, and I don't want to get it all apart and then discover that I need to find a new centerpin. Not my area of expertise by any means. It's my daily driver, so when it comes apart it has to go back together the correct way, and get me to work the next day.


    Oh yeah, forgive my lack of knowledge, but how do you tighten the nut down on these things? It looks like the end with the head has no way to be prevented from moving while you are spinning the nut on the other end. I'm probably missing something simple.......


    1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, 2.5" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's[​IMG]
     
  2. jerseyk5

    jerseyk5 Registered Member

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    Yes, the pins are the same size. To tighten it down just grap the bottom with a set of vice grips to keep it from spinning. I just did it and didn't have any problem.
     
  3. AJMBLAZER

    AJMBLAZER Better to be lucky than good. Premium Member

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    Cool. Is there a torque value for it?

    1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, 2.5" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's[​IMG]
     
  4. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    You don't need to grab the round bottom of the centering bolt with pliers. I went ahead and let the round bottom seat in the hole in the rear blocks I have (I know, I plan on ORD shackle flip but I still am not sure about pinion angle on a LWB truck).
    With it seated, it shouldn;t spin. I just got out the impact gun and a long socket and hit it.
    Be careful not to OVERTIGHTEN. I did that and had to drive 30 miles one-way to get another one. The threads broke off inside the nut. Not sure of torque value, I just got it pretty tight and put loctite on.
    Once it's on, you get out the sawzall and cut the end of the bolt off (takes 5 seconds). With the anchor plate on top, I don't think the nut is going ANYWHERE.
    Good luck, you'll need a hi-lift to raise your frame up high enough - even a high-rise floor hydaulic jack won't go up high enough (at least on mine, 6" lift.)
    -- Mike
     
  5. smp

    smp 1/2 ton status

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    I learned a good little trick a couple of weeks ago when swaping my axles i broke the center pin and found that you can use a allen head bolt with an 1/2" head and i think 3/8" shank you can get all sizes long or short and real easy to put in and should be strong.


    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://WWW.SMP.COLORADOK5.COM>http://WWW.SMP.COLORADOK5.COM</A>
     
  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    All good advice above. for torque, 20 ft-lb would probably be enough, they don't do much besides hold it together. You could go more than that to make sure it's all seated together properly, but they are pretty soft bolts.
    If you have big bolt cutters, that's another good way to cut the excess bolt off. The nut won't come off then!

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     

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