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Disc brake conversion-once again

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by orangeGMC, May 11, 2005.

  1. orangeGMC

    orangeGMC 1/2 ton status

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    I just received my brackets from Diy4x, now I need to know what else I need.
    Calipers, rotors, pads, lines, hardware?? Also is there a step by step with photos anywhere??
     
  2. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I was thinking of doing a technical write up on the setup I went with, in kind of a non-traditional way. I went with AZKickin brackets when they were in business, TSM large GM calipers with e-brake, custom cables from a company down in SoCal, and the project is almost finished.
     
  3. orangeGMC

    orangeGMC 1/2 ton status

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    Hopefully I can use parts that I can get locally, Autozone, Advanced, Napa, Carquest, Acme.
     
  4. justwhatido

    justwhatido 1/2 ton status

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    stainless steel brakes website

    has thier conversion to rear disc brakes and it is all designed to bolt on. No adapting parts from other vehicle to work on yours.


    Fred
     
  5. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    SEARCH, im sorry this same post comes up at least once a week. :mad:
     
  6. orangeGMC

    orangeGMC 1/2 ton status

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    I did a search and found the calipers, rotors, and brake lines. But nothing on what other hardware I might need. I didn't see a step by step either. If I just missed it could someone please post the link?
     
  7. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    The bottom line is this, if you go with the caddy calipers, you have to fab up some kind of bracket that you either bolt on to the caliper bracket, weld to the axle tube, or somewhere else for the cable to hook into. The caddy caliper doesn't have anywhere to hook the cable onto. There are many threads here where folks have posted up their solutions with pics. I originally bought the caddy calipers but never really liked the idea of making my own bracket if there was another solution.

    So, I went with the TSM caliper that they call a "large GM caliper with e-brake" ( http://www.tsmmfg.com/3120.htm ). I am sure this caliper can be purchased elsewhere since it is no doubt from some other vehicle. As for cables, some guys have been able to modify their original cables by removing some of the stuff on them. Although, they tend to be pretty short, and therefor no slack. Other folks have adapted salvaged cables from other applications and made them work. I had a company called Control Cables ( http://www.controlcables.com//StoreFront.bok ) custom make me some for my rig. The quality was very good and they were only $70 for the pair. I accidently went way too long on my measurements, but it worked out well in the long run as I was able to route them in a way that they don't hang down at all to catch on anything. The bottom line is, you pay for convenience. I'm sure my project cost double what somebody else's might if they spent the time junkyard hopping and comparison shopping for the best prices. For me, time is money and sometimes it is worth it to me to just get it done with high quality in a short amount of time. If time isn't an issue, you can certainly save some bucks by doing more homework.
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    My dad says those calipers appear to be the early Seville calipers he has in his possession.
     
  9. orangeGMC

    orangeGMC 1/2 ton status

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    I was just going to use regular non e-brake calipers. I don't think I have ever used my e-brake, ever. I just want to know if I need any special caliper mounting bolts, banjo bolts, washers, etc. I don't want to get in the middle and have to run out to the store because I needed something small like that.
     
  10. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    If you've never used an e-brake at all, you are living on borrowed time. I've seen many different brands of cars and trucks pop out of gear and roll. I'd hate to be on a angle and have the tranny crap out with nothing but my foot to keep it in place until a trailside repair or a tow rig arrives. Maybe with a buddy you could pile up stuff behind the wheels but by yourself...... The only way I'd go without e-brake calipes would be if I went with a driveline e-brake instead.
     
  11. orangeGMC

    orangeGMC 1/2 ton status

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    I will probably do the driveline e-brake from HAD later on. Can anybody post a picture of their setup so I can at least know what the finished product should look like?
     
  12. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    1. Jack up truck.
    2. Put on jack stands.
    3. Block wheels. Not that were safe lets move on.

    4. Drain diff.
    5. Remove wheel.
    6. Remove axle shaft. (if you skipped step 4 it has just come back to haunt you.)
    7. Remove spindle nuts and associated locking devices.
    8. Remove outer bearing.
    9. Remove hub and drum assembly. (if you skipped step 8, your bearing just got all dirty.)
    10. Remove the brake backing plate. Some brake hardware such as springs and things may be in the way of the 4 bolts. You don't need them so remove any way necessary. (hammer works but don't ding the spindle!!!!!)

    Time to assemble.

    11. Take spacers and bracket and one bolt and start the bolt into the axle flange through the bracket and 2 spacer rings. <<bracket, spacer,spacer, axle flange>>
    12. align with the next hole and start the bolt into the threaded flange. repeat two more times. Now your caliper bracket should be at the "10:00 position as you face it pass. side. 2:00 position as you face it driv side.
    13. replace any bearings that you feel need replacing here. Also replace hub seal here.
    14. assemble hub/rotor assembly. You may need longer wheel studs. The caliper is thicker than the drum.

    15. Put the hub/rotor assembly on spindle.
    16. slide on the outer bearing.
    17. reinstall your locking devices the opposite they came off. Keyed washer, spindle nut, mid evil locking device, spindle nut. Torque per GM spec. and bend tab from mid evil locking device over outer spindle nut.
    18. Put axle in and bolt to hub.

    19. load the caliper and slide into position.
    20. Bolt on the caliper.
    21. run your brake lines.

    22. repeat for the other side.
    23. fill diff with fluid.
    24. Fill and bleed brakes.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2005
  13. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Somebody proof me. did I miss anything.
     
  14. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    Here is how I relocated my parking brake cables with a short piece of angle iron, a bolt/lock nut, and cable clip. It allows enough cable to reach the TSM large GM calipers, without engaging the parking brake while flexing.

    bracket2.jpg

    bracket1.jpg
     
  15. WARP1

    WARP1 Registered Member

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    I did this to my '73. I used the calipers ($10), pads ($10), rotors ($25 ea.) and front brake lines ($50) from a '74 3/4 Chevy 4x4. I got all of the parts new from Advance Auto, I just told them I wanted those parts from a '74 3/4 Chevy 4x4. I used a Kickin' Az bracket and I believe it came with the mounting hardware. I did not have a parking brake after the conversion.
     

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