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disc breaks on a 14 sf

Discussion in 'Pacific Region' started by 55Willy, Aug 19, 2005.

  1. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    would it be worth it? or would I be better off finding a new carrier for my gov loc'd 14ff?
     
  2. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    We are doing this right now on an axle for Ryan. We're even converting it to 6 lug alloy shafts. Converting the 14SF to discs is still cheaper than rebuilding the drum brakes. Especially for you since you work at a parts store!

    Call me if you want to discuss. We know the particulars of this one.
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'm all ears on this one, is there any chance of keeping the discussion public?

    Eventually plan to do so on my 14SF, already 6 lug, is the setup going to have e-brake?
     
  4. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Sure. We should have it completed within the next couple days. We were waiting on all the parts to show up. It can be done with or with out the e-brake setup. It's pretty dang easy to do if you have it all set up right. We are finalizing he design and installation of it this week. I just don't want to go putting info out there that we aren't 100% sure on yet. We'll have pics and all kinds of info as soon as we finish up.
     
  5. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    what rotors are used on a 14sf swap??
     
  6. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I would also apppreciate a write up on this one. I have an 8 lug 14bsf stock and rear discs would be great. :waytogo:
     
  7. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, then sounds like we need to do a tech write up for this one! It'll be a more lengthy one as we will need to do it for the 8-lug application and then show how to convert it to the 6-lug alloy shafts like we are doing for Ryan.

    Jeremy, the kit we are putting together right now uses the same 8-lug rotor as you would for the 14BFF and for the 6 lug conversion, it uses the same rotor we use for the 1/2 ton axles. It is the same diameter and thickness of the 8 lug rotor, so there is no loss in braking surface.
     
  8. mrpoorboy

    mrpoorboy Registered Member

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    updates?

    any updates on the disk brake kit for the 14sf 6 bolt? i would like to purchase as soon as your ready. thanks
     
  9. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    We have all the parts together and are doing the final assembly this week. We should have a price and full kit put together very soon. Since we are doing an 8 to 6 lug conversion, Could you do me a favor? Since you are already running a 6 lug, could you measure the distance across the WMS on the axle shaft itself? Also, there should be a "hub" that sticks out through the WMS flange that the drum sits on. If you have any questions as to exactly what I am asking for, send me an e-mail w/ your number, and I'll call you. Thanks!! :waytogo:
     
  10. mrpoorboy

    mrpoorboy Registered Member

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    it would be best if i call you. i have the axle shafts out, brakes off and the housing is bare. i do not even know what WMS means. i leave for vacation friday night, so friday afternoon would be best. thanks.
     
  11. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    sent you an e-mail.
     
  12. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, we finally got Ryan's rig done and he is currently running a newly converted 6 lug 14BSF rear axle w/ disc brakes. We had a few interesting challenges, but nothing that we couldn't handle!

    In order to get everything to line up correctly, Ryan had to space the mounting bracket 2 5/8" off the current brake backing plate mounting flange. This is way to far for spacers in our opinion, so we are designing the kit to use a new weld on mounting bracket, spacer, and caliper bracket, and mounting hardware. The good news is that we are able to incorporate most the standard 14BFF parts into this kit. The only tricky part about the kit will be to weld on the new mounting plate so that everything is straight. We will include spacer alignment hardware that is placed between the current backing plate mount, and the new weld on mount to help keep everything straight.

    We still need to use a spacer between the caliper bracket and the axel mounting flange. We don't want anyone burning up their axle seals/bearings when they weld on the axle tube. This seems to be the best way to do this kit and keep it as bolt on as possible

    The basic kit will include;
    New weld on mounting bracket
    Caliper bracket
    Caliper bracket spacer
    Weld on bracket alignment hardware
    Caliper bracket/spacer mounting hardware

    Right now, we're looking at $145 just for the basic kit. We will have pictures up on our site very soon of the basic and full kits.

    If you have any questions, feel free to contact Ryan (topdown) via e-mail or pm. He just took his truck on a 400 mile round trip to play at the beach with his wife and babies and had zero issues with the kit.
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Is there no way to utilize the same flange you had designed that needed to be spaced too far out, and just tweak the design so that it was bent at an angle towards the caliper, then bent vertical again to mount the caliper? Maybe some stiffening ribs welded on if necessary.

    My idea seems a bit complex, welding isn't that big of a deal, for some reason I just tend to lean towards bolt on/bolt off stuff though.

    I guess you'll explain e-brake and what not on the site when the pics go up?
     
  14. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    I see your point, but...

    1. The mounting flange sits too far back on the axle tube to use a bent bracket effectively.
    2. We will not bend metal for a caliper mounting bracket. Bending weakens metal significantly. Even with stiffening ribs, it would still have areas prone to cracking under heavy braking conditions. We don't want that liability.
    3. We could go with some sort of bolt on bracket/spacer combo, but it would be VERY expensive to make. It would put the cost of the kit into the $400 range just for the brackets and spacers.

    The e-brake setup would be the same as what is used on the 14BFF conversion.

    As with all products, there are usually several generations of design. We will be looking at this ongoing to see if there is a better way to do it. Right now, this seems to be the best option from a safety and cost perspective.
     
  15. mrpoorboy

    mrpoorboy Registered Member

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    how is the kit you are working on now different from the 14bsf 6 lug disk conversion #2 you are selling on your web site?
     
  16. kram

    kram Registered Member

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    sf

    it figures.nothing is simple on my rig.
    would it be better in the long run to swap the rear to a full float?
    i thought 8 lug was better?why switch.
     
  17. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Without looking at the axle tube to see what kind of distance you are talking about...how about this, disregarding any machining and material costs that I know nothing of: (heck, you said 2 5/8", I think I know the distance!)

    Spacer "rings" like shown for your 14FF Disc Brake Kit #1.

    Make the rings thicker to make up for whatever difference in flange mounting location there is 14FF->14SF. (same tube diameter 14SF/14FF, so ring material cost could go down?)

    Holes all the way through the spacer, tapped. With 2 5/8" of thread to work with, you could easily go 1" deep on BOTH sides, so you could bolt the ring to the flange with 1 set of say 1 1/4" bolts, then turn around and bolt the caliper bracket to the front of the spacer with the same.

    Perhaps this wouldn't work with an aluminum spacer ring due to thread strength, but if steel already, it doesn't seem like it would be too difficult.

    From a safety standpoint, using bolts on either side would almost negate the possibility of the spacer "twisting" since there would be no unsupported bolt length. That's the design on the stock setup, so I don't see as that would be anything worse liability-wise, which I certainly understand.

    Dunno, just an idea, trying to get my way lol. :)
     
  18. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    The 8 lug kit uses a standard D44 8 lug rotor and is mounted behind the axle shaft with the wheel studs pushed through the back of it just like a standard 14BFF conversion.

    The 6 lug kit uses a 6 lug rotor that slides over the outside of the axle. No pushing the wheel studs out and pressing them back in. The draw back to the 6 lug kit at this time is that the wheel studs are 1/2-20 (the same size as the 3/4 ton studs) not the 7/16-20 that are used on most 1/2 ton axles. We are looking at getting blank axles so that we can drill them for the smaller wheel studs.
     
  19. shane74

    shane74 1/2 ton status

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    Dorian - The first kit we made is exactly like what you stated with exception to threaded spacers. We cut our spacers to a VERY tight tolerance, but they are not threaded. We had to use 3 1/2" long bolts on the axle Ryan is running. We could offer a kit like this, but it would be expensive. It costs us more to make the spacers than it does to make the brackets. This is due to the material cost and machine time to make them. In trying to keep costs down, we decided to go with a new weld on flange. A set of spacers is $50 (again, due to material and machine costs). To do a kit with bolt on spacers would take 3 sets of spacers ($150 alone for them). We'll snap some pics of Ryan's axle so you can see what we did on his.
     
  20. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Cool, always curious to see how things have been done! :)
     

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