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Disk brake conversion STEP BY STEP

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, May 1, 2006.

  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone have a write up? I'm wanting to convert my rear 14ff to disk brakes, since i'm gonna have to tear them down anyway, because I suspect mud has gotten in them, making them no longer work correctly. I'm wanting to buy Kert's kit. What parts store has the disks, calipers, and lines the cheapest? What are the part numbers. What all tools will I need? What exactly will I have to do, I need a step by step, because I've honestly never touched a brake system. I currently have no lift, so I guess I would need stock length brake lines. I need to know how to take everthing apart, how to bleed the brakes, ect. Even the most basic info would be AWSOME.
    thanks very much,
    James
     
  2. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    For the parts, look on Ebay. There is a guy who sells the entire kit with Eldo calipers(with spring and lever) for 499.00. That is the best deal I have found. It is all bolt on. Bleeding brakes can be a tedious job. It's best to have someone who knows, to help you
     
  3. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    i am going to print this one as a reference when I do it.
     
  4. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I plan on keeping it under $200. Screw a parking brake, I have a parking pawl in my tranny :wink1: But yeah, if anyone knows of any write ups that are step by step, I would appreciate it. Also, Who has the best deal on all the parts, napa, autozone, advanced, oriley's? What are the part numbers. I'm pretty dead set on kert's bracket, From what I've seen and heard on the net, I don't think there is a better quality/ value out there.
     
  5. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    very nice article... I hope I'm not getting in over my head. This little passage at the very end of the article kinda scares me:

    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"Of course, now that the simple stuff is complete, the real work on a rear disc brake project begins - and that is understanding and building the systems valving - including taking into account master cylinders, pedal ratios, combination valves, residual valves, hold-off valves, proportioning valves, piston ratios, etc. etc."[/FONT]


    :eek:

     
  6. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    BellaVista does not do anything that is simple. Great write ups, but he is over my head most of the time.
     
  7. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    Kert's brackets are a good choice, I've bought a few sets of them. I have always done the conversion for right at $200 including new brake lines. You can buy the discs, calipers, pads, and rotors for the front of a K20 truck from either '78 or '79 and it should be fine. I re-used my lug studs. I bought most of my parts at AutoZone because they were the cheapest. I bought my brake lines from Orielleys, I got them for a '79 Chevette, they were about 12" long and the same part number fit both sides. The rubber brake line from the frame to axle stays the same, so you don't need to mess with it. I bought somes lengths of hardline and bunt/cut/flared it and ran it from the tee in the center out to the Chevette lines.




    Basically you remove the hub/drum assembly, replace the drum with the disc, install the brackets, and then put it all back together. I knew nothing about it the first time I did it and everything worked well.




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    I didn't change any of that on the 3 conversions I have done and everything worked fine.
     
  9. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    me neither....

    as for rear ebrake.. I needed it to pass inspection... I originally did it with front d44 calipers and tell you what.. stopped better than with the caddy calipers....


    however I didnt may as much for the caddy calipers (originally... do a serch and you will see my nightmares on it).... I got my 2 with levers from car-part.com to my door for like $48... then napa 2 calipers for $120
     
  10. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    About the whole flaring brake lines and all that good stuff, Is there any part number for a brake line that will literally just bolt in place? I don't have any special tools or skills. Kert's brackets do bolt on, right?
     
  11. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    I have the azz-kickin.com setup.. think they are out of business as they didnt make much $$$ on the kit...

    $80 for the brackets
    $60 for the brake lines and all the other hardware
    think they even gave me 10% off being a ck5er...

    anyway... kit is sweet...
    I like how the brake lines connect...

    pics with the d44 calipers.. got the eldo's on now... will have to get some new pics...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    Yep, kert's brackets bolt on.

    You can buy an inverted flare tool from Napa for about $20. I didn't even know what the tool was when I bought mine. It's real easy to use though. You can use it to flare brake lines and transmission lines. I can get you a part number if your interested.

    Or you could buy the harline and bend it so it fits and just "loop" the extra... but that looks like crap.
     
  13. wforicv

    wforicv 1/2 ton status

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    James

    Here is another article: http://www.shakerbuilt.com/14_Bolt.html

    Also, check the TECH ARTICLES (advanced previews) forum on this site. The massive "Post yer part numbers" thread has tons of 14BFF disk part numbers from NAPA to Carquest.

    What part of Georgia do you live in? I am in Augusta. I did my 14BFF about a year ago.

    Eric
     
  14. MattK

    MattK 1/2 ton status

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    dont skimp, they're your brakes.

    also, there are threads upon theads on this site with info on doing this and the problems associated.
     
  15. steve_kibbe

    steve_kibbe 1/2 ton status

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    I did mine, nothing very hard about it, pretty straight forward. I have a set of the caddy calipers, but I'm going to get a new set from O'Reilys, they have the least expensive set, iirc $60 plus core, which I have:D
     
  16. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    1. Jack up rear and place on stands. Chock front wheels.
    2. Remove rear tires.
    3. Remove axles and have two drain pans ready. (8 bolts in center of hub)
    4. Remove drum/hub assembly. (spindle nuts in center of the hub) Spindle nut socket required. Drums can be difficult to remove at times. Special note: there is a funny looking spikey washer between the nuts. It will probably have and end bent into one of the voids in the spindle nut. Pry this out of the nut with a screw driver. ( I like to count how many threads are visible on the spindle for reference later.)

    5. Remove brake backing plate. (4 bolts on axle flange near the center of the plate) Brake lines and Ebrake cables will need to be disconnect or cut off at this point depending on whether or not you want to reuse. Try and plug your brake lines to save some fluid and less mess.

    6. Clean up the spindle and inspect for damage and wear.
    7. Press wheel studs from Drum/hub assembly. (Some use a BFH, I prefer a shop press with the lug nut on the stud to protect the threads.)
    8. Replace wheel bearings and at the very least the wheel seal at this point.

    1. Pry out wheel seal. (Can sometimes be difficult.)
    2. inner wheel bearing falls out.
    3. Drive inner race out.
    4. Drive outer race away from spring clip. (It's there!!! so keep looking)
    5. Remove spring clip with a long plier or similar method.
    6. Drive out race and bearing out.
    7. Reassemble in reverse order. Don't forget to pack the
    bearings, Tech tip here (http://www.diy4x.com/bearingtip.htm) Also,
    make sure to fully seat races against there corresponding surface.
    Outer race is seated against spring clip. Inner race has a shoulder
    to seat against machined in the hub.
    8. HUB IS REBUILT!!

    9. Place 73-87 Chevy 3/4 ton front rotor on the back side of the hub and insert wheel studs. Some use a BFH. I prefer a shop press.
    10. Bolt on bracket set and spacers to axle flange. 4-1/2" fine thread bolts with lock washers and torque to factory spec. (Chilton's manual) Bracket should set at a angle toward the rear of the vehicle and pointing upward. (As you are working on the axle, Driver side, 2:00 position. Passenger side 10:00 position. All that is necessary is the bleeder on the caliper face upward.)

    10. Install rotor/hub assembly by sliding on spindle, insert spindle washer with indexing key, first spindle nut and torque to spec while spinning hub/rotor assembly, insert locking washer (the wierd looking device that was removed in step #4. Install final spindle nut and torque to spec. After torqueing check for play in hub rotor by trying to move rotor in our out on the top an bottom. Rocking motion. Bend tab into void to lock the assembly together. Torque specs are also in Chiltons manual, I believe the inner nut is 35ft/lbs. and outer being 110. IIRC> (How many threads on the spindle are visible??)

    11. Install brake caliper and pads. (Bleeder screw vertical)

    12. I prefer to put my new lines on at this time. Easier to work around things.

    13. Insert axle shafts and torque to spec. (8- 1/2" shoulder bolts per side. I use a criss cross pattern to torque them and a ratchet strap or length of chain to keep the hub from spinning while torquing.)

    14. mount wheels.

    15. remove from jack stands.

    16. refill diff with 80/90 gear oil of your choice.

    17. Bleed the brakes and bleed and bleed and bleed. Get sick of bleeding, Jump on CK5 and research better methods! Take it to a shop with a power bleeder and be done! (I bleed them the old fashioned way. I stick some unfortunate sole in the drivers seat and make them pump!) Gravity bleeding does help if you have the time to let it set overnight with the bleeders open. Don't forget to check fluid level in the master cylinder.

    If you have problems during this conversion feel free to call me at the shop.

    712-479-2251
     
  17. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    We should insert photos to this as we come across them.
     
  18. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    tapped mine out with a bfh and a 1/2" x 3" grade 8 bolt I had laying around... took 1-2 hits each and didnt dent them at all.....


    bahhh mine are still from 1978 and still doing good....

    I have a bleeder I got from sears and love it.. you put a hose onto your bleeder screw... break the bleeder open... hose goes to a can then another hose from can to a trigger unit with a gauge on it.. you squeeze the handle and it SUCKS the fluid which fills the can... and just keep the master cylinder full.......

    link
    http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00921021000

    pic
    [​IMG]


    NICE WRITEUP DUDE.... VERY ACCURATE!!!!! :bow:
     
  19. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Man, I was really looking foward to doing this. As it turns out, going is higher on my priority list than stopping, and I'm probably going to buy an olds455 if the deal ends up being as good as it sounds.. So I'm going to have to put this off for a little while. :(
     
  20. 74BBPowerHouse

    74BBPowerHouse Registered Member

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    www.blackwidowperformance.com has the brackets for cheap. and badass brake lines that hold to 10,000 psi. It seems like a great deal. Check em out
     

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