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Distributor problems

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TX Mudder, Nov 2, 2001.

  1. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    In an attempt to get my 350 running again, I had isolated the problem to either the distributor or the timing chain having jumped a tooth.
    I decided to tackle the distributor first. I got a known-good distributor and installed it, with new wires, coil, cap, and rotor. I popped it in and it didn't make the old 350 run, so for kicks I decided to hook the timing light up and make sure the inductive pickup would register a spark through the wires. Well, no light and no spark. What gives?
    I checked that I installed the coil and ground correctly. I checked the ingition hot wire and that it was reading 12V into the BAT terminal. The little three-spade wire from the dist. body to the cap is installed correctly.
    I am starting to think I should go ahead and yank the engine and put in the on-the-cheap rebuilt 350 before I was planning to (which means I need to go ahead and put it back together.)
    Is there something basic I am just missing?
    -- Mike


    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Is there 12 volts going to the BAT terminal while the motor is cranking? Or did you just check with the key in the run position?

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  3. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I just hooked up the multimeter with the key in the ingnition-on position.
    I'm trying to figure out how I'd check the voltage of the wire with it hooked up to the distributor...?
    -- Mike

    <font color=blue> The mud's on it to hide that it's more than one color.[​IMG]
     
  4. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    Do you have a HEI or points type distributor? If it is points type I would do the obvious first, check the air gap in the points. If that is okay and you are getting the proper power to coil on the batt side of the terminal then you need to check you coil. Put a test ligt on the wire that goes between the coil and dist, have someone crank the engine and the test light should flash on and off. If it stays on the coil is bad OR the condensor is bad. That can cause the problem.

    Like to go sloppin' 'round in da mud in a rapid fashion....=) [​IMG]

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/chevyracing>http://community.webshots.com/user/chevyracing</a>
     
  5. xnoahx

    xnoahx 1/2 ton status

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    did you check for spark by actually pulling a plug and hold it against the block while someone cranks the engine. If you are getting spark you will see it

    My 73 K5 <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/xk5blazerx/73k5.htm>http://www.geocities.com/xk5blazerx/73k5.htm</a> 350/TH350/NP203, Q-jet, Edelbrock intake, Vortec heads, 4" lift, and 36" TSL's
     

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