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do I unbolt the tranny from the bel. or the bel. from the engine?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Dec 31, 2001.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys, the only thing that needs unbolted from the block is the motor mounts, and the tranny!

    It looks like it would be much easier to unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing, but I wanted to very before I got knee deep. I've never seen this linkage so I'm not sure what I'm getting into there... [​IMG]

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If you're pulling the motor out I'd unbolt the bellhousing from the motor. Then it just needs to come forward an inch or so and it will be clear. If you're pulling the tranny and T-case out it's easier to ubolt the tranny from the bellhousing.

    Make sure you keep a jack or jackstand under the tranny/bellhousing area to support it...

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  3. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    just what I was lookin for!!! [​IMG] guess I had it backwards though... [​IMG] shouldn't be too hard to finish from that point though... [​IMG]

    thanks Rene...

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  4. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok after I unbolt the bellhousing from the engine will the flywheel &amp; clutch cover etc. come out with the engine, or is there something more I need to disconnect in there? (like the flex plate &amp; the torque converter)

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  5. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    You can leave the flywheel on just like you would a flexplate on an auto trans. The clutch can be left on if you want, but if youre gonna reuse it I would take it off just to be sure you dont damage it if it gets hung up on something.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html>http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html</a>
     
  6. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    so let me make sure I got this right because none of my books have any decent explanation...

    there is going to be a flywheel, a cluth, the clutch has a pressure plate. if I take the clutch out with it then there will be a shaft going from the tranny into the clutch. if I decide to leave the clutch then I am going to unbolt the pressure plate from the fly wheel correct?

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  7. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    OK, the flywheel bolts to the crank like a flexplate does. The clutch and pressure plate are kinda 1 unit. ( The clutch sits against the flywheel and the pressure plate sits against the clutch and bolts to the flywheel. ) The input shaft on the trans goes through the clutch/pressureplate (splines) and into the end of the crank.

    Basically, if youre gonna reuse the clutch and pressure plate, take them off before engine removal. If youre not gonna reuse them then just take the bellhousing and trans off and leave the clutch and pressureplate on the motor.

    There are only about 6(I think) bolts holding the clutch/pressureplate to the flexplate. They should be about 1/2 inch and are easy to get out once the bellhousing is removed.


    I hope I didnt make that really confusing!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html>http://www.geocities.com/outlaw613/K5.html</a>
     
  8. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    i just did this yesterday and its MUCH easier to unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing.. then pull the motor and take all that other stuff off while the motor is hangin from the cherry picker
     
  9. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    OK mike you know what I have to ask, and why I am asking it...

    actually this is pointed more towards Rene; why would you recommend that I unbolt the bellhousing from the engine instead of doing it this otherway??? (I know there has to be a reason, and I'm assuming it is a good one)

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Because it is easier to get the engine out without an extra 8" or so sticking out behind it. GM truck have already counter sunk the engine back into the fire wall by 4" or so. With the bell housing, most of your wiggle room is gone. It can be done but, the more room the better for maneuvering. Also, it is the only way to leave the clutch/pressure plate on the input shaft. Even if you don't leave the c/p on the input shaft, you will only need to pull the engine forward about 2-3" to clear the c/p off the input shaft as opposed to 6-8" or so to clear the input shaft out of the back of the bell housing.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  11. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    with the distributor removed, and the radiator out, there was so much room I could have practically stood in front of the motor...

    put a jack under the SM465, with slight pressure, and take a litle pressure off the motor mounts with the cherry picker... now unbolt the 4 bolts and then undo the motor mount bolts and it will come out VERY easily. its not tight at all..

    this is a 77 K10 small block sm465. It was probably the easiest engine pull Ive done to date.

    oh, I even had the balancer and crank pulley still on the motor, along with alternator, water pump, smog pump, etc.

    mike
     
  12. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok Mike... I think I'm going to try it your way just for the experience, and the get a first hand look. this is completely stripped! the only things left on the block is the bellhousing, and the tranny pan!

    I figure if you can do this with the complete engine then I should be able to do it very easily with just the block (that and there is a bolt missing between the tranny &amp; bellhousing, and this way I won't forget to find a replacement for it [​IMG])

    would be fun to find out how this works out so I'll let you guys know in the morning.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Hmm, it's been about 11 or 12 years but I don't remember there being that much room. I've only pulled an engine from a GM truck in front of a 4 speed once with the front cap still on, and then I pulled the bell housing bolts. In my truck there is roughly 11 inches (just checked) between the water pump snout and the back of the core support. I still feel, like I said earlier, there is room with the bell housing, but not a great deal. Especially when you consider the engine must come forward to clear the fire wall on it's way up, and the bell housing means it must come further forward.

    I'll concede the point, after all, you've pulled an engine with the bell housing, and recently at that. My only remaining point is that the c/p must be left on the flywheel to pull the engine with the bell housing attached. If you wanted to leave it on the input shaft, then the whole question becomes moot. I'm an auto guy (on a full size 4x4 anyway) so I should just stay out of this anyway. I've always just left the c/p on the flywheel even when reusing them so, what do I know...

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  14. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    actually as I sit here going over this in my mind I'm thinking that I should unbolt the pressure plate etc. so that I don't have a possibility of ruining it.

    I figure with my luck its bound to happen... [​IMG]

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  15. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    DO NOT unbolt the pressure plate until the engine is out. You will not be able to control the clutch disc and pressure plate without dropping it. If you are going through the trouble of pulling the engine you may want to replace the clutch and pressure plate as well as the throwout bearing. The whole kit at NAPA is only about $135.00 and it is worth it. A machine shop will charge about 20 bucks to turn the flywheel. Unbolting the bellhousing from the block is the way to go. Accessability is much greater to rejoin them that way as well as visability. This may sound like a pre-cursor, but don't forget to remove the starter. When it goes back together make sure you use a clutch alignment tool. Also while you have it apart check the pilot bushing. If it is gouged or bad replace it with a brass bushing DO NOT use a needle bearing pilot bushing. There is no way to lubricate it and it will fail long before a brass one does.

    You will feel it when the engine and tranny separate, don't force it. Put a block of wood on top of the transfer case at the rear between the transfer and floor board in case the jack slips, that will keep it from nose diving.

    There are two 1/2 inch head (maybe 9/16) bolts that hold the clutch linkage to the frame at the Z-bar, remove those so you do not get a bind.

    Watch out for the spark plugs, they will poke you in the akeelies (&lt;-----spelling) tenden when you are in there pulling the engine and it hurts like hell.

    Watch out for the oil pressure sending wire, it will get pinched if you do not secure it to the firewall or cowl.

    Hope this helps.

    John

    Like to go sloppin' 'round in da mud in a rapid fashion....=)

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  16. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    well i really dont have any reason to try and convince anyone.. All I know is that I too am an auto guy when it comes to these trucks.. Im working on this bone stock UNTOUCHED 77 K10 sm465/smallblock at my good friends house.. his dad is the ultimate master of this stuff.. hes so old school its not even funny. I kid you not when I say you would not beleive his garage, and the stories hes got to tell. I think I know a thing or two about these trucks and then he comes along and blows everything I think I know away. And its all from experience. When I was ready to pull the motor, I actually walked into the house and asked him (as one of his trucks that he's owned since the 70's is a 77 K20 sm465/small block) this very question: Hey smitty: should I unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing, or the bellhousing from the block? without hesitation he told me to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the tranny to the bellhousing, and why. I did it, and it worked like a CHARM. otherwise, I would have been guessing. If I did unbolt the bellhousing from the block, which crossed my mind, sure I would have got the job done but it would have been a HUGE pain in the butt. Im tellin you, just unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing. as far as Im concerned, its the ONLY way. the motor could not have come out easier than it did that day. And I was the ONLY one working on it. My girlfriend was there to hand me a wrench a couple times, but thats it... I wouldnt steer you wrong if I didnt 100% beleive that my way was best, and know for a fact that it works perfect. well that is all, let us know how it turns out

    mike
     
  17. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    WOW!!! let me tell ya guys this has been a well thought out, and very persuasive post from both sides!!!

    last 2 posts by ChevyRacing, and Mike were great... [​IMG][​IMG] I don't think I could have asked for anything more out of the topic...

    I do agree with one point made by Chevy Racing in it makes sense that it would be much easier to put it back together with the bellhousing unbolted from the tranny, but then you'd also have to fight those 2 bolts up on top too.

    so now whats a guy to do??? LOL

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  18. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    Solo,
    How about a compromise. Maybe pull the engine with the bell housing, but mount the bell housing with the engine off. My main concern is the throwout bearing. It will be somewhat difficult to stab the throwout bearing and not knock of the clutch arm off trying to reinstall it with the bell housing on.

    On the two top bolts sometimes it is easier to get them from the bottom with a bunch of extensions with a wobbler on the end.

    Lets us know what you do, I am curious. Too bad you are not closer to me, I have a heck of a shop with one mean cherry picker. That reminds me, make sure the hoist you are using will clear the truck with the engine attached, some of them won't, even with a stock height blazer.

    John


    Like to go sloppin' 'round in da mud in a rapid fashion....=)

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun31?&page=1>BLAZER PICS</a>
     
  19. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    <blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>


    That reminds me, make sure the hoist you are using will clear the truck with the engine attached, some of them won't, even with a stock height blazer


    <hr></blockquote>

    Which leads to the reason that I usually had to pull/set engines with the front cap off. Mine would clear stock 4x4s but just barely, and I had to use a really short chain. It was terribly unstable with the engine at max lift. On the older stuff that I was always working on, setting the front cap off was not too much work and it sure made engine r&amp;r allot easier.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by BadDog on 01/01/02 01:03 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  20. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Don't F it up like I did. I pulled my first manual motor and bent one of the little fins on the pressure plates and forgot the dust cover. Its easy to fix, but I should have s l o w e d down a bit because I wanted that icky 305 out bad.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>The Blazer Boy Page</a>
     

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