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Do these hubs look shot?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Jun 16, 2002.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    Doing an 8 lug conversion, I pulled the seal off and the seal surface was realy scuffed and nasty. Looks like a 5 year old worked on this thing at one point. I know its not me because the 2 rear hubs and the other side of front came out fine. This one was nasty from the get go. Every thing except for the knuckles was in bad shape. Any way if I got in there and cleaned it up with a die grinder would this be ok to run and not have any leakage problems?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Chaz88K5

    Chaz88K5 1/2 ton status

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    it dosent look all that bad...ya gota figure its just grease...not oil..so it shouldent be flowin out of the seal easily....just change the races and bearings and your set to go
     
  3. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    which part of the hub is that.the pits dont look too good.more pics if you have them.was this a junkyard piece.if so how much?im looking to do a 14 bolt rear and 8 lug con up front
     
  4. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    looks like its pretty pitted, if i was u, i would go ahead and do it while u had it apart.

    NITRO
     
  5. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    [​IMG]

    This a different angle. I actually bought the outers here from the for sale forum. The only problem I can tell would be that the race may not seat all the way because its soo gnarled in there. I have other pics but they are not in focus too good...
     
  6. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    While I have it out should I just replace it or try to grind it down?
     
  7. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    if you are planning on using them i would also worry about the races seeting right.if you machine them a little and clean them up they should work out though i think.you should wait and see what other people say though.
     
  8. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Why not just go ahead and replace it that way you will KNOW you have a good part and you won't have to worry about anything happening for a while?

    May as well spend a little more money to get a good part and know it's good and be done with it. Do it once and correctly to avoid costly mistakes and parts. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  9. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="blue"> Ya beat me to it , Wes ! Buy a new set and never look back ! Better safe than sorry .......... The money you'll spend will be well worth the confidence you'll have knowing that the parts are good ! </font color>
     
  10. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

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    exspensive parts but well worth the piece of mind.
     
  11. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    And....is the life of your own, your passenger and the pedestrians worth saving if you bought new hubs? /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  12. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Geez guys. I think your going a bit overboard here. It doesn't look THAT BAD.

    Don't take a grinder to it...you will most likely mess it up more by removing too much material. I would just knock off the high spots with some 150grit sand paper and put new seals and bearings/races in. If you are worried about the seals sealing just use a bit of RTV.

    EDIT:
    Also if the bearing race isn't as snug as you would like it to be you can use some Green LockTite on it. It is designed to be used with press fits.
     
  13. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah to what Triaged said but the seal should work fine just put some grease on the outside of thr seal body when you seat it. I've seen worse on trucks I've worked on. New races and bearing and you should be good to go.
     
  14. lizard

    lizard 1/2 ton status

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    Those "pits" look like they were made by a punch to tighten up the race. If the race is still loose I'd take a punch and make a few more pits /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif As long as the thing aint out of round or the race is sloppy loose then this is an acceptable way to get some more miles out of it.

    If you are still worried then get some new ones.
     
  15. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I would also agree here. The race should only seat on that surface, they do not require a "perfect surface" because once in place the bearing will center on the race when tightened. It appears they have dimpled the surface so the race would seat firmly. You never want the race to spin in the hub or you have a problem. I would not grind on the hub or the race will fit loosely.
     
  16. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I think I am going to have them sandblasted and see if it takes the edges off. The inner race was in there so tight it took a lot of work to get it out so I dont think I will spin a bearing any time soon...I guess I kept thinking of the 14 FF hubs that have to hold the diff oil back, these are just holding in grease so I hope it will be ok. the hubs are $45 a piece and I am trying to be a cheap a$$...
     
  17. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    You can use, I think it's, green locktight 602. It's made to hold races in when the hole is out of round. That stuff saved my friends Hewland transaxle in his Formala car.
     
  18. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

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    To make it easier to take old bearing races out, just run some short welds around them, it will shrink them up just a few thousands of an inch, but it is usually enough to get them to fall out. Just remember that they will be unusable afterward, and to also be very careful not to weld on the hub carrier itself.
     

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