Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

does the pinion nut always come loose???

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Intense Blue, Feb 28, 2002.

  1. Intense Blue

    Intense Blue Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2001
    Posts:
    49
    Likes Received:
    0
    my pinion nut has come loose twice now, maybe the first time i didn't torque down the nut,but the 2nd time i did. is the nut junk?? also just recently the rear u-joint went out...whats the deal????????????
     
  2. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2000
    Posts:
    9,069
    Likes Received:
    479
    Location:
    Grand Rapids area
    Well, the u-joints are pretty much just maintainance, but the pinion nut needs to stay on or you can mess up the ring and pinion gear. The nut is supposed to be staked to the pinion threads. You may need to tap a chisel on the tapered part of the nut to get is staked better once you have it on again. I think it also helps to clean it all up really good with the nut off and then put a bunch of loctite in it. It should be tightened up really tight: maybe 120 ft-lbs. If you go up much higher, you might change the crush sleeve and put too much pre-load on the pinion bearings.

    <font color=green>Top signs you don't have a real 4x4:
    4) Twin Traction Beam
    3) Made by D.C.
    2) 5 lug nuts
    1) Unibody</font color=green>
     
  3. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    Sounds to me like you may have a problem already with your crush sleeve. If you are not tightening all the way up to the crush sleeve, your pinion nut will back off everytime. That is the purpose of the crush sleeve. If you overcrush the crush sleeve, you will have too much preload on your bearings and they will wear out much quicker.

    It usually takes between 300 and 400 ft lbs to crush the sleeve. With that said, you could probably apply 120-150 ft lbs without crushing the sleeve any more (just a guess, though).

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    It takes about 250lb to crush the sleeve. Torq it as hard as you can with a ratchet (no cheater bars). Your pretty safe up to about 120lb.
    Now the official deal on pinion nuts is they are supose to be replaced if you ever remove them. Proably time to do that. Dealer should have them.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
    coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  5. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2000
    Posts:
    9,069
    Likes Received:
    479
    Location:
    Grand Rapids area
    Grim is right on this one. The 300 to 400 number is just to get a sleeve started. A used or "pre-crushed" sleeve shortens up with a lot less force. I would keep it within the range he mentioned. There are very few things on a vehicle that require any more torque then that.

    <font color=green>Top signs you don't have a real 4x4:
    4) Twin Traction Beam
    3) Made by D.C.
    2) 5 lug nuts
    1) Unibody</font color=green>
     
  6. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    Thanks for adding that. I wasn't sure how much torque to impact a sleeve that was already crushed. I have only dealt with new ones. That is why, knowing what it takes to crush one from scratch, I figured the 120-150 range would be safe. Besides, without an impact wrench, most people would be hard pressed (literally - he he) to apply much more than 200. God knows applying enough pressure without an impact to crush mine was probably the hardest thing I have ever had to do!

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  7. hammer

    hammer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2001
    Posts:
    449
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Binghamton N.Y.
    use red locktite and it will never come loose on you again

    <font color=red>Let me at it I can break it</font color=red>
     
  8. Intense Blue

    Intense Blue Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2001
    Posts:
    49
    Likes Received:
    0
    so if i use loctite and torque to 100lbs. i'll be good to go and wont damage the crush sleeve??
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    I'd go with 150 lbs and tons of red locktite. I used the loctite and an impact on mine and it hasn't loosened since.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2000
    Posts:
    3,238
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    Grimmy is right. The Pinion nut is a one time indented lock nut type. Your "supposed" to get a new one everytime. But......tighten it down like he said with a 12" ratchet no cheater bar as tight as you can get it. Every bit of ass you got with a "fair" amount of lock tight and you should be good to go. But the best bet is to get a new nut.

    Its the popping, rumbling, roaring, twisting, flexing, grinding, so you can wheel anywhere medicine[​IMG]
     
  11. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2000
    Posts:
    1,530
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Temp. Ft. Walton Beach Fl. home=Tucson, Az.
    FYI, Offical I like that one
    Offically do not use RED Locktight, it will not come off with out a lot of trouble.
    There will come a time when you will need to replace a pinion seal, then what will you do ?
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    You use an impact wrench and it comes off. I've done it before. Mine came off.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  13. calvin

    calvin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2000
    Posts:
    152
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Brownstown, Michigan
    Yeah, red loctite holds good, but DAMN, not that good.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://irocz.cz28.com>http://irocz.cz28.com</a>
    79' Chevy Custom Deluxe shortbed K10, 396 ,pics on site
     
  14. hammer

    hammer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2001
    Posts:
    449
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Binghamton N.Y.
    to remove it I use a impact off,on,off,on...... It breaks it loose in about a min or so. Don't use a cheater bar and pipe to break it loose the tires will spin first.

    <font color=red>Let me at it I can break it</font color=red>
     
  15. 87K54WD

    87K54WD 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2000
    Posts:
    105
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Texas
    This is an interesting post, I just replaced my pinion seal a while back and it is already spraying gear oil all over the muffler and underbody again. My pinion nut was real easy to come off, and it had never been taken off before. I'm thinking I didn't tighten it enough when I put it back on, and I didn't use loctite. Used some other blue silcone "crap" on the threads that is still "soft" and didn't seem to hold up well. Are you sure the pinion nut has to be replaced? I only ask because from what I remember it looked like a basic LARGE nut. Also, what other color of loctite is good if you don't want something as permanent as the red sounds like? Also, does loctite help seal as well? I wish my Haynes manual was more detailed about this when I was replacing the pinion seal.
     
  16. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Yep. Pinion nut is a lock nut. Removing and installing them will wear out the lock part. GM, Dana, Ford, Spicer, All recomend the pinion bolt being replaced and the pre load on the pinon being checked any time that bolt is removed.
    Doesn't mean it always happens. I'll admit that I have only once replaced a Pinion nut. I was setting up the axle at the time and the set up kit came with a new nut.
    It should take some effort to remove that nut. if your easily removing it, with say a 3/8's ratchet.....time to replace it.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
    coloradok5.com/gallery/Grim
    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     

Share This Page