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Door alignment-shims?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mkmiller, Jul 26, 2003.

  1. mkmiller

    mkmiller 1/2 ton status

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    the pass side door on my blazer is very tight fitting at the top of the door(actually rubs as it closes). the bottom is OK. Where do I need to put shims to make this gap more uniform?
    thanks,
    Matthew
     
  2. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    I put them under the door it self...if you look under the truck you will see the back side of the door has two pads that are close together, I put shim under the one that lines up with the back side of the door and some under the front of the door...
    I used washers with a slot cut in them so I didn't have to remove the stud up through the inside of the truck, I think the front stud that you need to shim is welded to the floor....I used about 3/16" inch shims and got the tops to open up...good luck.. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Wraparound

    Wraparound Registered Member

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    I'm trying to sell a full set of blazers that I bought for my 72 blazer. I had to sell the truck but I still have over three hundred dollars in rubber seals.

    JessMyers@aol.com
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    The Factory Assembly Manual describes the process of shimming under the body mounts to acieve proper door gaps....it's body mount position #2 and #3 that are used (IIRC). It's worth looking up if you have that book.


    Also, not to sound like a wet blanket but there are two OTHER reasons why the door could be sagging like that....and neither one is pretty. The first would be rust in the rocker boxes and other structural parts under the door (see "Cancer Support Group" for all the gory details)...the other thing could be that the upper door hinge (on the door itself, not the cab) is starting to tear out. This is starting to happen on mine and the door gap becomes impossible to adjust once that metal starts to tear....

    I hear that someone now has a 100% correct reproduction 1st Gen Blazer door available now. That might be a next step for me. There's not much point playing with the shims if the basic panels/doors are flawed. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  5. mkmiller

    mkmiller 1/2 ton status

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    TonyP-Do you have a pic you could send me? I'm kinda "confused" on where you're talking about.
    Thanks for the info Greg. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I know the boxes are solid. this one has very little rust. I wasn't sure which mounts to shim under, but I'll give those a try and post back what I come up with.
    Thanks,'
    Matthew
     
  6. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    I think the door you're referring to is from GMC Paul's.

    http://www.gmcpauls.com/ If you look in new products, you should be able to find it easily.
     
  7. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    like greg said the 2nd and 3rd from the front...
    do you need a pic? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    like greg said the 2nd and 3rd from the front...
    do you need a pic? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Yeah, what HE said..... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


    #1 is radiator supports
    #2 is the mount that is under your feet in the driver/passenger footwells
    #3 is the one EXACTLY on the edge of the rear shelf lip
    #4 is about 12" back from #3
    #5 is in the rear tailgate area about 6" from gate
    #6 is almost touching the rear tailgate lip

    12 Body mounts....... just like disciples. And aren't we ALL disciples of the "1st Gen Faith"???? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  9. mkmiller

    mkmiller 1/2 ton status

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    I fully consider myself a "Maroon" now. I won't need the pic. Thanks fellas. I'll post what I get worked out.
    A BIG THANKS!
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Matthew
     
  10. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Hey Greg, any idea on when to shim more and when to shim less???
    If you remember I SLAMED my rockslider(drivers side) at FRains last Feb. Well my driver door's latch assy. lines up about 1/2" below the striker mounted to the body. I have to lift up on the door then push it shut.
    Any idea on if I should add shims or remove some? and what mount would be your first guess to adjust??
    Peace Out
    Burt
     
  11. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Copyright Laws be damned.....!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


    [​IMG]


    The manual doesn't count the radiator supports as a "body mount" per se, so the numbers are diffferent from what we describe in the thread above.

    Hopefully this will be legible, I had to reduce to 640x480 for the gallery..... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  12. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Sweet!
    Dude!
    Sweet!
    Dude!
    SWEET!
    DUDE!!!!!
    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  13. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    Burt, your talking about door alignment that is different then door body alignment, adding or removing shims from the body mounts will mostly open or close the gap around the top of the door, if your door is hitting the striker you need to loosen the door hinge's on the body and try to move the whole door up...I have the same problem with one of my doors... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ahhhh Roger doger......thanks!
    I haven't tried to adjust it yet...I'ts on my 'list' hehee
     
  15. mkmiller

    mkmiller 1/2 ton status

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    OKIE DOKIE! What would you say would be the best method for doing this? should I loosen all the body mounts(1-5) and put shims in #2 & #3 or would you just try it with the others tighten down? I have a 1" body lift put on a year ago so the nuts can be broken easily. My door tend to rub very slightly at the top but has about a 3/8" or so gap at the bottom. Any idea on what size shim to use(i.e. washer).
    THANKS!

    Mattthew
     
  16. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    it dosen't take much, I used maybe 1/8" thick washers and added one to the #2 and two to the #3 supports
     
  17. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I'd loosen everything first.....

    You don't want to create weird "binding" with the other mounts.....once those settle back down, you're adjustments may be all wacky again...

    I'm willing to bet it takes a few tries....I like the idea of using a "U-shaped" shim so you don't have to pull the bolts out every time. Use the "U-shaped" stuff to get the body dialed-in....(give it a week to settle in with driving, I'd say)....then swap them out for the real shims.....the factory ones are actually SQUARE by the way.

    /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     

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