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door frame cracked by striker bolt

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90K5, Dec 18, 2001.

  1. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Just looked at the area right by the striker bolt and there is a crack next to it, similar to the cracks in the floor that I brazed shut in the spring. Just thought it was strange that GM used such crappy metal in their trucks...maybe this is why my door doesn't fit right...plus the hinges are worn out.

    90K5
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    <blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

    maybe this is why my door doesn't fit right...plus the hinges are worn out.

    <hr></blockquote>
    Thats what causes the cracks. Fix your hinges, get the door properly adjusted and don't forget the nylon rollers that go on the striker bolts. Too many people leave a badly adjusted door with sloppy old hinges for too long.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Like Rene said, the problem is primarily lack of maintenance and simple wear. When the hinges get worn and stiff, or the detent drags and binds, or there is too much weight on the striker, then the metal flexes every time the door is opened/closed. Eventually this work hardens the metal and you get cracks.

    These are the areas that I often (well, once upon a time) gas welded which helps to anneal the work hardened metal while making the repair. If you MIG it, you need to let it cool and then heat the area around the repair (between ruddy read and cherry red, not beyond) using a rosebud tip on an O/A torch. Let it cool naturally and it should be good. Now, I've never had a formal welding edumacation but this is what I was taught and did professionally for years. Never had a repair done like that break, never. However, I did fix some MIG'd repairs (around hinges) that broke again not far from the original weld.

    When you get everything back together and up to snuff (hinges may need bushings, nylon bushing on striker, oil the latch, etc.) you need to adjust the door without the striker in place so that the back side body lines are a little less than 1/8" low. Put the striker in and adjust so that it lifts the door *slightly* when it closes. This takes the weight off the hinge area and is necessary to keep from breaking out the hinges. That lift/slide is why you need the nylon bushing/roller thing on the striker.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  4. ti.user

    ti.user Registered Member

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    I agree with Russ and Rene about lack of maintance.
    My truck has a crack by the stryker also--- but mine was caused by lack of maintance to the latch assy. I didn't keep it lubed good enough so it was sticking in the closed position, and I tried closing the door. My own dumb fault.
     
  5. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I just need someone to t-bone me right on my drivers door. Then i could get new hinges, fixed crack, new rockers, becuase there is rust in the door sill and maybe a new mirror because mine is cracked. Also a new 1500 thing becasue mine fell off, and the plastic strips, becasuse they are different on the door for some reason.

    90K5
     

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