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Door Help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ZfromNJ, Jan 24, 2002.

  1. ZfromNJ

    ZfromNJ Registered Member

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    I just bought new door hinges and I put three of them on but the doors still do not meet correctly. I simply took the other doors off and put these hinges on. I am assuming that I did not do it right and I need to get this done. Hopefully someone has some help.


    {crazy}
     
  2. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

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    Doors and hinges are a PITA. Best I could offer is to line the trim lines up as best you can while holding the door ajar (not latched). Snug the bolts down and close (latch) the door softly so as not to disturb the snugged hinges. Make adjustments and do it again, and again, and again until you get it. Did you replace the door pins and bushings too. That may be a good idea. Another concideration would be the body mounts. If your front fenders aren't lined up properly with the body you may never get the door aligned. Good luck

    Mudstud
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s6superliftand33s.msnw?albumlist=2>http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s6superliftand33s.msnw?albumlist=2</a>
    76K5 6" with 33s, sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12bolt
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    It just takes some adjusting. The first time you do it, it often takes quite a while. Both sides of the hinge adjust a bit. Just keep fooling with it, eventually you'll get it figured out.

    Generally, for a starting point, I just loosen the hinges and lift the door onto the striker to latch it. Then snug the hinge bolts enough that the door does not move easily. Then start working on the fine tuning. A floor jack under the door with a 2x4 block of wood behind the pinch weld (with the door almost closed) will help keep from loosing ground (by letting the door drop) while making more adjustments. When all is said and done, the striker needs to lift the back of the door by 1/16-1/8 inch to take the strain off the hinges and door bulkhead, otherwise you will have a cracked door and hinges won't last as long as they should.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Yeah, MudStud is right about the front fenders. Body mounts, tweaked frame, etc. can give you trouble on the front gap. But, you generally align the door with the front fender off (much easier) just looking at the bottom, back, and top gap. Then bolt on the fender and align it to the front of the door and hood using the slotted/oversized holes and shims. You can almost always get decent gaps by "stacking" the gaps and adjusting each in turn. If the frame is tweaked or body mounts shot, you may have to go back and divide up excessive gap at one point across several gaps till you can correct the problem. If you ever do that is, I ran a truck without a single straight line for years and it dog-tracked so bad that the front left tire was almost on the center line with the back right almost on the side of the road [​IMG]).

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires
    Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  5. Burbinator

    Burbinator 1/2 ton status

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    Also, make sure the plastic bushings on the strikers are intact as they help a little on the rear edge alignment, among other things.

    Haze gray and underway...<font color=blue>or blue, in my case.</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/album/26246038MbQsYWKcbo>U.S.S. Nimitz II</a>
     
  6. ZfromNJ

    ZfromNJ Registered Member

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    Thanks fellas I will try this stuff out and see how it goes. I will elt you guys know.

    {crazy}
     

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