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Door Jam Gap

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Robin, Dec 30, 2003.

  1. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    I hung my doors last night to ensure that stuff lines up before I weld the sheetmetal back on the window frame header. The gaps between the doors and the rear quarter panels are straight but:
    - drivers side is extremely tight
    - passenger side is wider then expected

    If I remember correctly, they were like that when I pulled them off, but with the rust and bad body mounts I expected them to be off.

    My question is: What is the correct gap that will allow the body to flex without rubbing the paint off?
     
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    My question is: What is the correct gap that will allow the body to flex without rubbing the paint off?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    1.375" all around/forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    I'm interpeting your response to be 1 in., .375 in. or are you joking? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  4. jasonkh2tg

    jasonkh2tg 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Robin Ive been reading your posts and progress on your work...I was lucky to find one with no rust...don't know if you know or not, but LMC sells a factory assembley manual that has good info on body panel specs..
     
  5. muddbudd72

    muddbudd72 Registered Member

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    robin,im also working on a 72. the factory assembly manual calls for a .16 plus or minus .09".i had to add shims after replacing the body bushings and the rockers.good luck!
     
  6. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Robin,
    Do you have the front fenders installed when you are checking the gap? Recommend not having the fenders on , or loosening them up ( along with rad support and pull all the way forward. Then align the door so the rear gap is around 1/4" , and uniform top to bottom. If the gap is uniform at the rocker, but not uniform at the quarter panel, you can add shims under the body mounts to slightly bend the tub to the right shape. there is sometimes tub settling when doing the body off resto. I was able to get my gaps pretty perfect this way. After the quarter panel gap is set, then work the fender to door clearance by having a friend (son) pull on the loose fender/rad suport and tighten the bolts.
    good luck.
    jeff /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  7. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Yes...I was just kidding. I shouldn't have forgotten the /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    My truck has like 1/4" gaps in some places and still rubbs together. These things just arn't stiff enough.
     
  8. Robin

    Robin 1/2 ton status

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    I guess if you have .25in. gaps and the paint still rubs, then the 1+in gaps make sense. I haven't ever gone off-raod with this thing, so I have no point of reference...

    Thanks for the humour, sorry I didn't pick up on it... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  9. dodgedude99

    dodgedude99 1/2 ton status

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    2 pieces of corrigated cardboard is what ive been taught to use as a gauge.
     
  10. mastercraftkpk

    mastercraftkpk 1/2 ton status

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    I use the cardboard trick as well.
    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     

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