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Double Cardan repairs (front shaft)

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by tRustyK5, Jan 29, 2003.

  1. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Anyone have any tips and pointers for dis-assembly and repair of the double cardan joint on a front shaft? My buddy roached a U-joint in his front shaft...and I've never had one apart.

    I've heard the U-joints are retained with that plastic injection crap...true? Are the U-joints used different than regular U-joints?

    Rene
     
  2. BowtieBlazer

    BowtieBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    I know the plastic filled u-joints you will remove can be replaced with aftermarket c-clip style joints. Since they are filled with that plastic crap you need to heat them and tap them with a hammer. BEWARE THE MOLTEN PLASTIC THAT AT TIMES EXPLODES OUT!

    If the double cardan joint is that CV style connection with the two u-joints there isn't much to it....just take note on how you place the grease fittings if the new u-joints are greasable. I personally would use non greasable ones there as they are hard to access.
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    They vary. Most dissassemble the same way. Take the shaft out. Remove the inside ones caps first. This will alow the play needed to remove the outside one.
    There is a locator ball in the center of the CV. On the spicer shafts that ball is spring loaded and has roller bearings in it. Be careful not to let it go sailing off and loose the bearings. The saginaw shaft it's a fixed ball and no worry.
    Mark what way the cage was when you took it apart. I have been told the cage looks identical either way but the spacing is different a little and it will cause it to bind if assembled wrong. I have never questioned this. I just mark it before I take them apart to make sure I put it together the same way.
    Dealing with the cage and ball assembly is a hold you tounge the right way deal but not hard just need to put a little presure on it to get the caps and cross lined up when you press it together.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Thanks, anyway to tell if you have a Saginaw shaft or a Spicer?

    Rene
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I think anything after about 77 is Saginaw. (I hope I have the right and not backwards). The Saginaw has a flange mount where the spicer attaches like a strap u-joint. The "strap" on it is a cast peice and it has the part with the ball in it. The drive shaft has a pin on the end of it.
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    OK Grimmy it looks like I have one of each. I have a front driveline from a 74 (yoke output 205) and I have the driveline on my 81 Jimmy which is the flange output. We're going to fix my buddy's front driveline tonight and his is stock issue for an 89 Blazer (also flange output)

    While we're busy with it I was hoping to fix my front driveline. The spare shaft I have from the 74 has perfect splines on the slip joint. The one in my 81 Jimmy is pretty well junk. Can the Spicer style and Saginaw style be combined in any way? All I need is the flange part on the spare shaft and my front shaft would be perfect...

    I'm /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif

    Rene
     
  7. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Sounds like "Tech Article Time"...... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I guess alot will depend on how soon your buddy needs it. I have seen it done, but have yet to attempt it myself, as I have not had one fail or get sloppy on me :knocking on wood:

    Let us know how it goes.
     
  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Oh great...let me be the guinea pig /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    My buddy's drive shaft just needs a U-joint...mine is going to be the mix and match special. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Rene
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Just have to swap the front output on the case. I think the change over happend when they went to the 10 bolt.
     
  10. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    It may or may not be able to be done. I'm not sure about the 203, but I know the 205 came in 30 and 10 spline front output configurations. If they are both 30 than you can swap the yoke for the flange or vice versa, but if they are different spline counts, you have to change the front output shaft as well.
     
  11. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    If they both use the 1310 U joints can't he mix and macth from both to suit his yokes?
     
  12. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    You cannot mix and match parts between the 2 different styles of CV's. You can however change the yoke or flange on the T-case as previously mentioned to make either shaft work for you.
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well we pulled my buddy's front driveline tonight. Found 5 of the U-joint caps walking out. I finally grabbed a rag and a small screw driver and discovered the previous owner had installed new U-joints and failed to install the snap rings.

    This shaft uses the internal style like front axle shaft joints...the half circle clips that fit in a groove on the cup. No clips anywhere on the shaft!

    Rene
     

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