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Double flaring techniques

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by spearchucker, Jun 11, 2004.

  1. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    I got a double flaring tool to do some brake line work. I've been practicing with some spare brake lines I have laying around but it seems like each time I do it the double flare looks different than the last time I did it. What's the technique you use and how do you know when it's done correctly? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Does anyone have pics of what a double flare looks like when done correctly and when done incorrectly? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif I'd just like to make sure that I'm doing it right since this is kind of an important area.
     
  2. rcurrier44

    rcurrier44 1/2 ton status

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    Its kinda easy, the bigest thing is to get the correct amount of stick out when clamping it the first time...on most setups you stick it out the amount of the ridge around the top of the die.

    Go to napa and look at a flair on one of their lines /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Good Fing luck with double flares. After doing the lines on my buggy I hate looking at the double flair tool in the shop.
    I used to think that I had double flairs down until I had to run the lines on my buggy. I fought every one that I did and you are right in the fact that they don't look the same two times in a row.
    One thing that I did discover is I wasn't tighting the fittings up enough when I first put them in.
    Really there is no rocket science to doing double flares just make sure that the stick out is correct before starting, then make sure that the line didn't split when you are done. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I have found a few little things will make them turn out a bunch better.

    -Don't use a tubbing cutter. Use a hack-saw and then file/sand the end flat.
    -Put a bit of a chamfer on both inside and outside of the tube.
    -Clamp it down tight...use a banch vice around it if you have to .
    -Make sure your stickout is right.
    -Count the # of turns and always go the same ammount.

    Using the hack saw isn't required with regular steel but is a must with aluminum or stainless!
     
  5. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Don't use a tubbing cutter. Use a hack-saw and then file/sand the end flat.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I've been using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [ QUOTE ]
    Put a bit of a chamfer on both inside and outside of the tube.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Been putting one on the outside, maybe I'll try the inside too. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    [ QUOTE ]
    Make sure your stickout is right.


    [/ QUOTE ]
    Been doing that with the supplied die as per the instructions.

    [ QUOTE ]
    Count the # of turns and always go the same ammount.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Good idear! (as Pauley Sr. would say).

    So it sounds like I'm doing it right, maybe I just need to practice some more. Basically it sounds like if the line doesn't have any cracks in it and it doesn't leak after it's hooked up then I should be okay. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
     
  6. slimlynn1

    slimlynn1 1/2 ton status

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    When you tighten the clamp down tighten the one closest to the tubing first, and then the other one. You will get better leverage that way and it will not slip when you do the flare.
     

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