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Doubler / Driveshafts

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by TheGeneral, Dec 2, 2001.

  1. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Steve (or anyone with advice)
    Gettin the doubler in and looking at shafts. I have to go with Jess's 205 ebrake setup due to no ebrake and I hate the eldorado calipers, but farther than that I'm not sure wheather to go all out and get 1350 CV's, 1410 yoke on D60 and 14ff. I got the prices from Jess and wow, but he is certainly good at what he does. I will probably go through him, but question for you is strength of shaft I need. I have the doubler, 4.56 gears in diffs, and mild 350, might go 454 soon, but question is to go heavy-duty shafts or stick with light duty (1310 joints). I would rather break and replace a shaft u-joint than an axle shaft and joint, so what do you think is best route. Next question is what is best thing to strenghin D60 shafts? Appreciate time once again.

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  2. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Steve,
    Anyone?


    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Since you said anyone[​IMG] I will give a little insite here. I know from talking with Steve on the phone he likes Tom Woods shafts and I believe that is what he has in the ORD beast. I personally would go with 1350 joints front and back which is what I plan to do at some point in the future when I do the doubler in mine.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  4. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    As far as the D60 shafts I would just do 35 spline outers with some good u-joints.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  5. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    We actually did this over the phone, my take on it is this:
    Build the rear to not break, I like 1350's front and rear (on the rear shaft), especially with a CV since then the pinion joint has very little angle on it. The rear will get you home in most cases, even if the front is broken.

    Build the front to break your favorite part, driveshaft joint, stubshaft, whatever. In this case I recommended trying it with the 1310 joint at the D60, stock CV joint at the T-case and 30 or 35 spline stubs. He wanted the driveshaft joint to be the weak link, and it might be with this setup.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
     

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