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Doubler?

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by 45acp, Aug 10, 2001.

  1. 45acp

    45acp 1/2 ton status

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    Stephen, What would be the cost impact to my doubler buildup that you are doing if I change from the 700R4 to a TH400? Is there any difference in the TH400s from on or another?

    <font color=red> Bill, "Shop Rat" </font color=red>
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  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Biggest part will be length in the K5, there's 2 ways to hook a 203 up to the TH400, one uses all factory stuff, which won't apply for your setup, the other way uses a custom adapter which is exactly what you would need.
    The kink comes in the output shaft for the TH400, the short one is the best to have but is hard to find since it only came with NP203's. The intermediate length works out well, but is an inch longer, so the adapter has to be built an inch longer.
    Cost, I'm not sure at this point, I'd need to figure out how the adapter would lay out. It's just not as easy as rotating the factory adapter on a TH350 or TH700.
    I'll start figuring it out. It won't really affect the Doubler portion of the buildup, just the adapter and input gear to the 203.



    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
     
  3. 45acp

    45acp 1/2 ton status

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    Stephen, What do I need to know so I can identify the proper TH400 and I'll start looking for it. If you can supply the demensions required for the adapter I will be glad to make it and even supply you with a couple of them if that would help. Lets go ahead with the buildup using the TH400 instead of the 700R4.

    <font color=red> Bill, "Shop Rat" </font color=red>
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  4. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    The TH400 you need has a 1 3/8" approx stickout length on the output shaft. It will be a 32 spline and application is a late 70's 3/4 or 1-ton.
    2nd choice is a TH400 with a 2 1/2" shaft stickout and it's application will be any trans that had an NP208 bolted to it. It's a second choice because the adapter will have to be thicker to make up the extra length of the shaft. You'll want to have the shortest drivetrain you can to keep as much rear driveshaft as possible. At least within reason.
    It seems like the easiest way to find the right parts is to find them all in one place, like if you come across a TH400 bolted to the NP203, you get all the right stuff. In your case, you'll only use some of it, but it's good to have it all anyway.
    We'll have to do some figuring on the adapter, due to the rotation, etc.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
     
  5. 45acp

    45acp 1/2 ton status

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    Stephen, I will buy a TH400 (BOP) from "brian60s" and have that rebuilt completely. If you know a part number for the main shaft that would help otherwise I will just be sure we have 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" stickout length on the main shaft. I am planning on a Cadillac 500 CID engine so that we will not require the adapter between the engine and the transmission. If this plan is OK just email and say go ahead.

    <font color=red> Bill, "Shop Rat" </font color=red>
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  6. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Sounds like fun to me! I don't see any reason what you're talking about won't work. One possible kink is that you need to make sure the caddy motor will mount far enough forward that you don't loose any more rear driveshaft. Other than that, you're good to go.
    I don't have a part # for the output shaft, we usually just reference them by the stickout length.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
     
  7. californiak5

    californiak5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Bill,

    I don;t know if you are still looking for a tranny, but I came across this add and thought I would let you know about it.




    FOR SALE

    Price $450.00 OBO

    turbo 400 heavy duty short shaft chevy transmission rebuilt never used

    Phone (714) 992-1985
    Vago1ara@aol.com




    I hope it is usefull for you.

    See Ya,
    Keith


    [​IMG] <font color=green>Born to Drive My K5</font color=green> [​IMG]

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  8. k7dkd

    k7dkd Newbie

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    Bill - if you don't want the th400 mentioned above, post as such. I may be interested if it's for a small block. I'm not one to cut in the front of line however.
     
  9. 45acp

    45acp 1/2 ton status

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    Don, Go ahead and look into it. I appreciate you consideration, I am going with a TH400 BOP that will mate with a Caddilac 500. Good Luck,

    <font color=red> Bill, "Shop Rat" </font color=red>
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  10. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    There is no difference between big and small block trannys. There is a difference between chevy and BOP trannys. The way to tell them apart on the turbo 400s are on the bolt pattern to bolt them to the block, the top part comes to a point. On a BOP the top part is indented in a couple of inches. Take a look to make sure you get the right tranny.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs locked front.Other cars 69 Firebird w/525 hp,and 70 GTO <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>MY vehicles</a>
     
  11. Ryeguy

    Ryeguy 1/2 ton status

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    The Caddy motor has to be mounted fairly forward in the frame 'cause the rear-most cylinder is on the driver's side, not the passenger's side like on a Chevy motor. I set mine an inch or two (forget the exact measurement) forward from the location of the 350 that came out, measured from the back of the block. I'm running dual T-case in my Blazer, and there's all kinds of room for a decent rear driveshaft.

    --Rob
     
  12. 45acp

    45acp 1/2 ton status

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    Rob, I went to your "HomePage" but did not find a Blazer, instead a Jeep. I would like to know more about your Caddy installation including motor mounts and any other problems involved. Do you have any photos of the installation? Thanks, Bill

    <font color=red> Bill, "Shop Rat" </font color=red>
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  13. Ryeguy

    Ryeguy 1/2 ton status

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    Bill,

    My web page is way out of date. I've sold the Comanche and am building my Blazer right now. There's very little info anywhere on my Blazer right now 'cause we're developing some products on it (to be released soon), and 'cause it'll be featured in at least one magazine. Once that happens (in the fall or winter), expect full details on "Hulk".

    As for the Caddy installation, it was very straightforward. I used the factory 350 mounts, made brackets than bolted to that, and to the factory Caddy motor mounts. These were simple, flat plates with some holes drilled in 'em, that's it. Really. I modified the motor mounts on the engine slightly to deal with the difference in the angles between the Chevy and the Caddy plates, that only took about an hour. Everything else is straightforward.

    The engine is sat pretty far forward, with only about an inch between the fan and the rad. That gave me about the same clearance between the firewall and the driver's cylinder bank. I sat it at the same height (measured from the crank) as the 350 to make shifter linkages and hook-ups on the TH400 simpler. I couldn't run headers, though, 'cause there wasn't enough room between the block and the frame rails. Mounting the engine higher would have solved that, but I've got an Edelbrock intake and a Mopar V-2 air compressor on top of the engine, and I already needed a body lift to clear this stuff.

    As for the doubler, let's just say that I don't suspect anyone on this list will be copying me any time soon. :-)

    --Rob
     
  14. Donovan

    Donovan 1/2 ton status

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    When I put my motor into my blazer I didn't move the engine forward. I choice to modify the firewall which was not that hard to do at all. There is a 2" wide lip that I removed with a plasma cutter and then I rewelded it back up. It took about 1 hour to do. I didn't want to move the engine forward because I was to cheap and didn't want to by drivelines. It worked out good because I was able to use the lower rad hose for a small block and the top hose was from a 71 Eldorado I believe. Here is some pictures of it. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=977248&amp;a=7210221&amp;f=0 The car runs in Denver 11.76ET and it weighs in at 3700lbs. I would say that is not to bad. Here is another link with caddy stuff you might like to look at.<a target="_blank" href=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=977248&amp;f=0>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=977248&amp;f=0</a>

    Donovan
    Nitro Fumes makes me Horrrrny
     

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