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Drilling the body/frame...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ChevyCaGal, Jul 1, 2001.

  1. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    I have a drill... it's older then I am and belonged to my dad then my grandpa and now me... it is good for wood and things like that. In metal it takes forever and even locks up because it's not exactly the most powerful thing. I went out and bought a Skil drill yesterday... I'm considering taking it back however. I need it to drill through the frame for my brace. I also need it to drill into the body for my antennia and spare tire carrier. I'm not interested in buying a tool because of the brand name because I don't feel the need to spend extra $$$ for the same result. But this is model # 6355-08, 1/2 drill, w/360 assist (a must for me), and 5.0 amps (0-800rpm high torque)... the more I think of it the amp/torque thing has me thinking I need to exchange for something higher... what do you all think? I spent like $50 on this, not much. I have no problem with dropping another $50, but up and beyond that I can't see it for my uses. After I drill those things I might use it for nerfs bars which I need to attach that are sitting in my garage... then that is it for the beast....so um, let me know.... thanks! [​IMG]

    I removed my quote so gay, vegetarian, minority, eco-nazis who love Jesus, nuke spotted owls, vote Gore and smoke medical marijuana won't be offend.
     
  2. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    What brand is it? If the rpm's and the amps are low. It will just take a little longer to drill. What is more important is that you get one with a 1/2 chuck. You probably got one with a 3/8. If you will plan on drilling larger hole. Like in the bumper you will need the larger chuck. And don't skimp on the drill bits. Buy good ones of those......Dan
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Sounds like the drill motor is fine for what you want. Too much RPM just burns up drill bits.
    The key to drilling into steel is a good sharp bit, I prefer the split point bits. When they get dull either have em sharpened or get a new one. Dull bits will just wear you out. Use some 'cutting oil' too. Rapid tap works well and using it will not only make the job easier but will keep the bits from wearing out too soon.

    If your drill is variable speed remember that the larger bits need less RPM. The small bits will tolerate much more Rpm. Watch the colr of the chips coming off, if the chips are shiny steel color your good, tan, brown, and blue chips indicate too much RPM and are just creating heat and wearing out your bit.

    Also be mindful of the last part of the hole as you're drilling. If you continue to push the same as you get almost all the way through the 'high torque' drill may catch a burr at the end and the drill will try to twist your arm off...

    One more thing...if you are drilling a larger hole, it helps to drill a small diameter 'pilot' hole first. That'll save your bigger bit and make it easier to drill the larger hole.
    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by tRustyK5 on 07/01/01 03:32 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  4. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Good ol anti-freeze works good as a cutting fluid also.


    my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
     
  5. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    That will certainly do the job - just get quality bits and keep them oiled. I've drilled the frame of a Freightliner FL70 with my ancient Craftsman 7.2 volt cordless before - I don't recommend going that far, but it worked in a pinch.

    If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all[​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
     
  6. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    That drill should be fine. I used my Makita to drill new crossmember holes in my frame last weekend. It's always best to drill a small pilot hole first. A good general purpose dit to have is a Unibit (step drill), it allows you to drill multiple sizes of holes with just one bit. It's already been said, but it's the biggest issue when drilling: High RPM's don't do anything but ruin drill bits, go slow and steady and use cutting fluid if you can. Have fun drilling!
     
  7. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    I'll beat this dead horse, too: The bigger the drill bit, the slower the speed needed. Use some type of cutting fluid (even WD-40 is good for this). When drilling big holes, I'll usually go 1min. on, 2min. off to keep the drill and bit from overheating.


    If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style...
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  8. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Adding to that note, my 1/2" Milwaukee Hole Hawg only runs at 450 RPM. I'd hate to see the damage it could do if it hung up at any higher of a speed.

    If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all[​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://pugsley.alloffroad.com>http://pugsley.alloffroad.com</A>
     

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