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Drive line spacer for 203??....and add-aleaf question??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by twenty_below0, Sep 30, 2001.

  1. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    Do they make a 1" spacer for the front shaft on the 203 flange...I know there is one for a 205...I think?? and on the add-aleaf thing, I have EZ-ride 4" springs front and back and want to put the add leafs with the centering hole (pin) moved forward 1" and want them for both front and back..how do you do this with out seperating the spring packs and taking off the keepers around them ( the square little pieces that rap around to hold them together in the front and back of every spring pack) THX
     
  2. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I have never heard nor seen of the flat flange on the 203. Only on the 205, 208, and 241.

    Superlift makes this 1" spacer to space the driveshaft out. Part number 4310. Cost is around $40 for the kit.

    As for the 203 and the flange, every one of those I have seen and heard of had the regular yoke on them.

    <font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

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  3. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    what do you mean by yoke??....probly what I was meaning by flange...bad choice of words.... on the other side of the YOKE is the flange that bolts to the case....I believe..thx for info
     
  4. i have two 203s- one 73 with a yoke style front output and one 78 case with the flang style and yes i do think they make a spacer for the flang. the spacer is a bad fix in my opinion. it may get you by on not having to lengthen your driveshaft but what is really does is make your u joint angles worse cause is shortens the distance between the case and the diff.

    <font color=blue>"What does mine say?"
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  5. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    THX Blue Beast for the info and yes your right about the angles but there's not a driveline place here (Alaska) so I'm screwed for a while till I can get another drive line and send it out...but thx appreciate the insight on the angle problem.
     
  6. wow, just realized i spelled flange wrong a few times. DORK! what's a flang anyway. must be past my bedtime.[​IMG]

    <font color=blue>"What does mine say?"
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  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yoke is the part that looks like the yoke on the rearend pinion end.

    The flange is what I refer to the flat flange for running CV joint shafts.

    <font color=red>I'm a "black top mudder"!!!</font color=red>

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  8. blazbrnc

    blazbrnc 1/2 ton status

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    There is an easy way to lengthen the front driveshaft. I picked up a '76 3/4 ton truck with the yolk style 203. When I compared the front d-shaft to the one out of my '79 with the flange style 203 they are different. On the '76 the cv area is about 1 1/2" shorter than the cv on the "79. To make up for the difference, the d-shaft itself (part with slip yolk) is shorter. If you combine the cv from a flange style with a d-shaft from the yolk style you pick up a couple inches of length. I didn't measure the exact length increase but it turned out good for approx. 5" of front end lift. This may sound unclear if so let me know.

    '79 K5, '79 Suburban, '76 Br**co, 77 K20
    '99 BB 4x4 Suburban to tow more junk home
     
  9. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    OK, yeah I understand what you were reffering too and mine does have a Flange I checked and it's a 203. THX for the info on the 76 3/4 ton for the combined length, BLAZBRC this sounds like what I'll have to do instead of the spacer, much better sollution.....for me
     
  10. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If you have a CV front shaft and use caster shims to correct driveline angle up front, why does it matter if you use the spacer if the lift is fairly mild? (4" or so)

    It was my understanding that angles are what you have a CV joint for. Was I wrong?

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  11. your cv can bind as well as your u-joint on the front diff if you make the angles too severe. the shorter the distance between the t case and the diff the harder it becomes to keep the agles right with a lifted truck. however i've never had to lenghten my front shaft for a 4 " lift. my buddy had a 6" with a 4 speed/208 and had really bad binding problems. he used shims and had the cv clearanced a little.

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