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Drive line?

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Tims72, Nov 15, 2001.

  1. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    Hey guys, I know this has been asked a few times before, but I need some help. I am having a problem with going through u-joints pretty quickly. I have heard that I may have to put shims under the trany, use a cv drive shaft, or get the leaf spring perches cut off and rewelded at a better angle. Which is the best/most cost effective way to solve this problem? It is a 72 with a 4" lift.

    Thanks, Tim
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Front or back?
    If it is the front, the front driveshaft must have a CV joint at the xfer case. The rear is lifted how? Blocks or spring packs?
    Give us the details on how your rig is lifted. I have a 4" too and have 0 issues with my ujoints. I did not have to do anything with the stock position of my xfer and tranny...

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Burt4x4>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Burt4x4</a>
     
  3. ShinnyHelmet

    ShinnyHelmet Registered Member

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    I recently had my 71 lifted to 4". 5 1/2" in the rear w/ blocks and 4" in the front. I was told from the get go that after I lifted that I needed to lengthen and have my drivelines re-balanced. I measured from the centerline of the front differential yoke to the centerline of the transfer yoke and the the same from the transfer case to the rear diff yoke centerline. The top of the yoke and bottom may be different, so take both (they will figure out the difference)measurements, after I took them both to a driveline speacialty shop and had them lengthend added spicer joints, balenced and painted them....everything runs smooth now...hope this helps out.
     
  4. ed rex

    ed rex Registered Member

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    After lifting my load way back when, I started to chew through U's at an alarming rate. I'm talking a few hundred miles per or less. Had the shims. Driveline angle was steeper than stock, but it was just a 4" lift with an add-a-leaf which I figure shouldn't be too much different than most anybody else who lifted their rigs.

    A buddy of mine told me to make sure that the U's on the front of the shaft line up with the ones on the rear of the shaft otherwise there is an unbalance condition. Hmmm....seemed to make sense. So I removed the rear shaft, set it on the ground on the flat of one of the rear U-joint 'cups'. Sure enough, the front U's were between cups. Slipped the yoke off, rotated to align with the rear and re-installed. NEVER changed another U-joint after that, other than normal wear and tear.
     
  5. Tims72

    Tims72 Registered Member

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    Hey guys, thanks for the help. I will have to try these things when I get back. You see I bought my blazer 2 months before I left on a 6 month cruise to the Persian Gulf. I am in the Navy. I wanted to start gettting parts together so when I got back I could start fixing it up. Now I see I will have to wait until I get home to do some measurements. Who knows it may save me from having to spend all that money on a new drive line. Oh yeah it has springs in the front and blocks in the rear.

    Thanks again, Tim
     

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