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Drive Shaft Adjustment??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by CrupS, May 28, 2001.

  1. CrupS

    CrupS Newbie

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    I put a 2 1/2 in. block suspension lift on the rear of my 88' Jimmy, and my transmission seems to be leaking from the rear seal, probably because the driveshaft isn't going into my differential at the right angle...anyone have any tips on how i can fix this?
     
  2. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    have you tried just replacing the seal? Could be you just damaged it when removing or replacing the driveshaft.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  3. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Mine did that too, basically what you did was move the yoke back so the seal is on a different surface that doesnt match. Just replace the seal and the leak will go away.

    "My blazer may be slow, but it goes faster at higher speeds"

    Jim
     
  4. CrupS

    CrupS Newbie

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    i actually had it resealed twice because i just had it rebuilt...it's a 700r4 if that matters...the transmission guy told me that i needed to fix the driveshaft so that it goes in @ the right angle...so i figured i'd post it and see what everyone here has to say about that. do i even have to fix the driveshaft?? i have no clue
     
  5. CrupS

    CrupS Newbie

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    replace the seal or replace the bearing on the yoke?
     
  6. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I assume your talking about the transfercase correct? The slip yoke slides in and out of that tail shaft. The seal is used to being on one part of the drive shaft yoke. By putting on a lift you moved the shaft 2 inches out of the tail shaft and the seal wont match that surface. I doubt it has anything to do with any angles.

    "My blazer may be slow, but it goes faster at higher speeds"

    Jim
     
  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    It sounds like you have 2 problems. 1 your angles between pinion and case are off. 2. The blocks will move your axle back meaning less spline engagement. This can cause the the yoke to drop some and run at a slight angle. If the splines in the yoke are worn this could become excessive.
    Some of those blocks are wedge shaped. you want to play with it till the angle at the pinion is as close to the angle at the case as possible. Some times this means putting the angles side against the spring with the narrow side foward. This will do 2 things. Bring the pinion up (and that may be the worng thing) and move the axle foward some. Unfortunatly this may make the angle the bolts pass through excessive. The bolts have to hit the top plate flat or they will bend or possibly fatigue and fail. It's worth checking out. If that doesn't work I would recomend ditching the blocks and going with a shackle flip this will keep more or the drive shaft in the case and should be able to get your pinion angle correct with a 2.5-4 deg shim. Might want to hit the ORD forum and make a post. Stephan Watson is ORD and he know K5's and lifts like nobody else.
    Now some people may tell you to drop the case an inch and that may do the trick but with only a 2.5 block I would think you should be able to correct it at the axle without looseing any ground clearence. Also dropping the case increases the operating angle of the front driveshaft CV and that can lead to other issues.
    You might also want to check your motor mounts. If they are bad they will let the motor sit lower increasing the angle at the rear drive shaft.
    Last but not least if you can get the angles correct you could have the drive shaft lengthed a inch or so and that would help. It would get better engagement of the yoke on the splines and help it run true and lessen wear.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     

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