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Drive train slop, how to get good parts?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Steve_87K5, Nov 8, 2003.

  1. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Bought a new 32 spline input for my 205. Ran well for almost 2 yrs before driveline seemed to have too much clunk and I pulled the 205 out to have a look. Turns out that the input splines to the 205 are worn already.

    How do we know we are getting quality replacement shafts?
    It's a hellofalotta work to R&R these things, and I'd like to buy parts knowing their quality. There must be SOME good parts, right?
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Where did you get it? I need to replace one as well, I'd hate to end up in the same shape you are.

    My reason to go to 32 spline is to get rid of the sloppy 10 spline setup.

    This *is* one of the reasons that (when available) the added cost of GM parts is usually worth it.
     
  3. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    The one that is worn I bought from Drive Train Warehouse. I think they are in Chicago, it's been a while. What I have been told recently is "205 parts getting hard to find" Well,
    what does this mean? That the vendors have to go overseas to buy the copied nonUSA part? I remember it came in a plain white box.

    Does anyone have a GM part number for a 32 spline 205 input shaft?
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Well, if I'm reading the parts manual right, 15594158 should be it. "Gear, Input Main Dr."

    Doesn't *look* right in the illustration, as it shows a male splined section, but that number is out of the '85-88 parts manual.

    Amazingly, GMpartsdirect still lists this, for $190. As usual, shippins a killer, but still way cheaper than MY local dealer.
     
  5. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I got a quote from Quad4x4 (Dan) for a 205 32 spline input, drop shipped to me for $90. He also said US made is no longer available to him.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    $90 is a good price, lowest I could find was $100, and that was without shipping.

    If I read your post right, you are still not getting US parts though, right? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    Not that there is anything wrong with all foreign parts, but I can't see a GM part (some of which are now foreign) doing what yours did.
     
  7. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I have thought about this some, and it could be a result of several factors adding up:
    1. the type of metals used to make the part (hardness)
    2. tolerance of spline machining
    3. end plays of 4500 and 205 added together and lack of spline lube
    4. maybe poor axial alignment of Advanced Adaptors kit
    5. Decreased spline engagement length designed
    into the Advanced Adaptors (year 1995) kit.
    6. Driveshaft vibration (No CV on my rear yet)
    7. clash of splines when transitioning from drive line tension, to slack, to decel. I think this is why GM put the
    damper in the 4500, to keep the splines torqued onto the
    transfercase during the sequence in #7 above. If you haven't seen the damper, it is a large cylindrical chunk of steel with a rubber mounting like a crank damper, and rides on the 4500 output shaft. It is the size of a coffee can.

    My ideas to reduce drivetrain slop, include among other things, coating the splines with teflon as a mold release agent, then at time of assembly, smear on some high durometer silicone rubber. It would have to be the correct durometer to allow cushioning of the splines and also not be chewed up. Teflon spray would allow easier disassembly.

    What were your ideas besides going to 32 splines??
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    My sole idea was replacing the 10 spline with the 32 spline. Get rid of that coupler, with the sloppy 10 splines on both sides.

    For the 205 lip seal part # should be 14095609: "Seal, Input Dr Gr" Didn't realize it, but according to the illustration, this seal is installed UNDER the input bearing retainer. (maybe it doesn't matter it can go through the center ok?)
     
  9. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks ! for the seal #.
    I need part numbers for the loose roller bearings. There are sm med and lg IIRC. These can be bought
    from bearing supply houses, but P/Ns would save alotta time and splainin'

    Here are some other NP205 part numbers I have used in past years which may be usefull to 205 builders:
    seal, input bearing #210SG H201
    seal, small, shift rods #7443 (mfgr is CR services)
    yoke, fixed, 3/4T 1350 series GM 6259081 $43.50
    yoke, fixed, 3/4T 1350 series Spicer 3-4-6211$57.71 (DTI price June '00)

    yoke, fixed, nut retaining GM 3967888
    front yoke (saginaw 4-bolt CV pattern) GM 460835 (GM 1994 price $50.44)
    front yoke (saginaw 4-bolt CV pattern) MOPAR 3898688

    gear, input 32 spline female 9-U-13929-MW
    gear, input 27 spline female 11401
    bearing ball assy 210SG
    clutch, sliding 97817 (dti P/N)
    nut retaining, yoke, fixed NE 97864
    washer, yoke, fixed TW 334-150
     
  10. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Pls explain what you meant by "go through the center OK"
    thanks
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    What I meant was I haven't looked at the input bearing retainer closely...I don't know if you have to remove it to install the seal, or if the seal can be pushed on with the retainer in place. (like an auto trans output shaft seal...push it on from the outside of the case, you don't have to pull the output shaft housing to do it)

    The manual makes it look like the retainer has to come off, and the seal goes on from the backside.
     
  12. Steve_87K5

    Steve_87K5 1/2 ton status

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    It's been a few years since I rebuilt my 205. Can't recall the position of the front seal.

    On subject of replacement gears and shafts, I got an email from Dan at QUAD4X4.com in Montana. He said that parts from Korea are OK. Also Italy. Boxes are not always marked as to country of origin, as they are supposed to be.
     

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