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Driver door sagging...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Piranha300, Jan 3, 2004.

  1. Piranha300

    Piranha300 Registered Member

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    I replaced the pins with bushings but it still sags. The new pins still pop out a little. Should I just replace the whole hinge with a new one? Any experience with hinge replacement here?

    Also, I think I weakened the stud on the door jam with the door rubbing on it through time...Is it connected to the frame... can it be welded to make it stronger... or replaced??? I bent it back straight for now.

    Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    My driver door sags as well and is hard to shut because the door bolt is very old and rounded off and the plastic bushing broke off. It also make the door rattle Just my .02
     
  3. txtough

    txtough Registered Member

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    My 90 burb driver door sags and I found it to be a small crack near the upper hinge where the door has weakened and started to sag. I took it to the Body Shop and they said it was best fixed with replacement.
     
  4. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    mine does to..commen thing on old chevys....mine scuffs the rocker panal when i shut it..i think it just needs pins/bushings in the hinges...ive had 2 different doors on it and they both did the exact same thing..
     
  5. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Both of my doors had the cracks near and around the upper hinges too. Apparently the sheetmetal can't take the weight of the door.

    You really need to take the door off to see the cracks.

    Could also be body mounts sagging/missing. Could also be a frame and/or body twisted.

    I replaced all my body mounts with Poly Urethanes. Then I was able to remove my doors, weld up the cracks. Realign the door to match the "bed-area". I was informed you should align the body pieces starting from the rear of the vehicle and move forward.

    Then I was able to align the striker bolt.

    I have since drilled little holes in the hinge pins and shaved off the knurl on the pin ends, and welded a washer on the top of the pins for quick/easy door removal and replacement without the need to realign the door.

    Good luck!
     
  6. camiswelding

    camiswelding 1/2 ton status

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    all the posts are correct....
    there is a body trick that works if your doors arent cracked and parts arent worn out....
    you can take a 4 inch piece of 2 x 4 and put it between the lower hinge and the body tub and push with sufficient force to pry the door upward,,,obviously then remove the wood block
    this once again only works for minor adjustments and using the factory shim on the bottom hinge may also be necessary as well
    the permanent fix.... determine if there are any crack/fix/replace as necessary
    Use and Age affect most of our trucks now...and chevy sheetmetal was never known for being very strong... if the doors are seriously tweaked I would go for the replacement and be done with it
    my 2 cents
    cam
     
  7. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    t6he door shells like to rust and brake at the hinge mounts, thats hwy my door is sagging, most all the doors i come across are cracked and rusted around the hinge mounts, this is usually the cause of sagging door syndrome
     
  8. Piranha300

    Piranha300 Registered Member

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    I dont have any rust around the hinges... My driver door hinges are just worn out I think (pins still pop out after the bushings were replaced). I noticed that one of the bolts on the top hinge has to be assessed from the inside of the cab? Has any one got to that bolt yet?I wonder why chevy did that.
     

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