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driveshaft angle

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 79cheyenneblazer, Nov 9, 2004.

  1. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    4 inch lift on a k-5, i put a 2 degree shim under the rear leaf pack to tilt up the pinion, but what to do about the yoke angle out of the transfer????
     
  2. mechted

    mechted 1 ton status Premium Member

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    about the only thing you can do it drop the t-case... unless you want to go CV in the rear

    dropping the T-case does cause problems when done too far, or high center clearence is required (rocks)

    with 4" of lift you should be fine.... what angle is it measuring?
     
  3. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    i'm not sure of the exact angle, i tried dropping the whole cross member down the those factory spacers, it helped, but i didn't want to cause a problem while fixing another, i put in a set of heavy duty u-jonts and drove 140 miles one day at about 85-95 mph, and 2 days later had to replace them, it ate up the needle bearings, and you can really feel it when you take off at a stop, how much does a cv joint usually run?
     
  4. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    If you put a degree shim under the leaf pack to tilt up the pinion and now must drop the t-case to match, couldn't you just remove the shim from the spring and leave the t-case alone?
     
  5. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    well it was eatting up both u-joints, the 2 degree shim on the axle helped the pinion, but the u-joint is at such an angle out of the t-case that it is still felt when driving, with a full tank of gas makes it better, when it is empty it is really felt at take offs
     
  6. mechted

    mechted 1 ton status Premium Member

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    why on earth are you running around at 95 mph in a lifted 4wd?!!?!??!

    oh, and consider replacing the "factory spacers" with a solid block spacer unless you want to crack your frame and/or crossmember (the "factory spacers" are not meant to take the torsion loads that are placed on the crossmember, you need something that provides a flat mating surface for both frame and crossmember)
     
  7. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    when you put the ujoints in did you remember to grease them? you should not be putting ujoints in every 3 days no matter what angle they are running.

    if they are greesed they will last a while (6 months minumim) not 3 days or even a week.
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If your u joints are wearing out that fast, you likely have a problem with the yokes on he driveshaft or axle.
     
  9. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    well I was running that fast on the interstate trying to keep up with traffic, kinda scary I know, and believe me, I was wore out after driving.
    I just tried those spacers, but took them back out and put the cross member back up because it made too many thing "too close" and I have been greasing the u-joints, I put the mapa heavy duty ones in, but I talked to a driveshaft shop and they said that I shouldn't use the napa u-joints because they are inbalance-able, they are off to much and they no longer use them for that reason, but they also said I should have no reason to put on a cv joint with only a 4 inch lift. I thought about putting CTM u-joints in but they cost a lot. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  10. sickquad

    sickquad 1/2 ton status

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    Step #1: Do you own an angle finder?
     
  11. big pappa b

    big pappa b 3/4 ton status

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    Are you over-tightening the straps holding the u-joints? That can cause premature failure /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  12. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I thought about putting CTM u-joints in but they cost a lot.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I don't know anything about these, but I think that they are a heavy duty joint that may not last long either, that's my impression anyhow. Someone with knowledge will chime in soon... /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  13. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    I do not have an angle finder, I may get one if I can find one. As far as the straps, I just tighten them with a wrench by hand.
     
  14. xtrmjoe

    xtrmjoe 1/2 ton status

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    Any hardware store will have a magnetic angle finder for less that $10. You need the angles to be the same, at the t-case as the axle. Are you installing them with a sledg hammer? If so try a vise, c-clamp, or the u-joint ball joint tool made to do the job fast and easy.
     
  15. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    we use a vise to put them in, but what to do about the angle on the t-case yoke?, should I drop down the t-case? or are there other alternatives, I don't want to fix one problem while creating another
     
  16. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    If you are not getting a vibration then I would assume that your angles are not the problem. You can run up to 14 degree angle on each ujoint and be ok. Make sure each end is within 1-2 degrees of each other. If you put the angle finder on a flat transfer case area and then on the diff yoke plate, you should see the same angle plus or minus a degree or so.
    I agree that the ujoints are either not lubed properly or are too tight. Use a good quality grease made for this app, and only tighten the strap bolts to IIRC about 16 ft lbs. Can anyone else confirm the torque spec?? Use loc-tite just to be safe.
     
  17. MarcS

    MarcS 1/2 ton status

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    I have an 87 with 4" springs all around and 35" tires. No shims. I used the factory spacers to lower the t-case and
    my d-shaft angle was perfect (7.5 degrees I believe) measured on the flat side of each yoke. Get a angle finder (Home Depot- $10) and measure your angles. Go from there. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  18. 79cheyenneblazer

    79cheyenneblazer Registered Member

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    thanks guys, I really appreciate all the help everyone is giving me /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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