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DROP THE T-CASE?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by CHEVY 4WD, Mar 16, 2003.

  1. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    How do you drop the T-CASE? (208) /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Pretty simple. Place a jack beneath the T case to hold it up. Remove nuts and bolts. Lower the t case an inch or two. On these bolts should be 1" spacers. Place these spacers between the frame and t case cross member. jack it back up and replace the hardware. No need to remove drive shafts either.
    However, if your going to be doing alot of banging around go with 1' stock or square tubing. I smashed my t case on the some rocks and the frame kind of curled back into itself. So the spacers aren't really beefy. Good Luck
     
  3. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I assumed you were talking about lowering the t case by the way /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     
  4. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    How does it still line up with the tranny?
     
  5. milspecjimmy

    milspecjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    you never un bolt it from the tranny, in droping it the t case, tranny and motor all move(tilt) back as one unit
     
  6. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    What combonation of lift, axles, etc are you running. I actually found that after I installed my 14bff that raising the Tcase took out my vibs. (w/2.5" lift)

    With my old 10 bolt and 2.5" lift kit I had to lower it to get the vibs to go away.

    Also when you lower it check for clearences underhood after you lower. Check the fan to fan shroud clearence. (my fan ate some of my fan shroud after the drop when I flexed it) Also check the distributor to firewall clearence. It shouldn't be a problem, but it doesn't hurt to look and make sure.
     
  7. K5thatShmobs

    K5thatShmobs 1/2 ton status

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    I think theres some confusion here becuase milspec forgot to mention that the bolts youre removing are the bolts that hold up the crossmember that runs right next to the t-case. Lower the crossmember an inch with some spacers inbetween the frame rails and the crossmember and bolt back up. As long as youre an inch or under, you dont have to worry about making any other mods.
     
  8. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    "Drop" is not realy the right word. Think "tilt" and it will make more sense. Those factory spacers are not realy big enough in diameter, make or buy some that that will spread the load better. National Tire & Wheel http://ntwonline.com/ sell some nice aluminum ones if you arn't up to making your own.
     
  9. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    nothing wrong with the factory spacers... they managed to carry the load of my tcase for the first 16 years of my rigs life when they were on top of the frame... and they have done just as well below the frame for the last 2 years.

    j
     
  10. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    As always YMMV, but I've seen them cause a problem or two.
     
  11. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

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    Same here my stock spacers have held up well for the 208 and even on the 203 that I've been sport'n around for 2 years now. My spacers are between the crossmember and frame JFYI.
     
  12. K5thatShmobs

    K5thatShmobs 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah they work great until you put even the slightest load on them... a couple months ago I high centered my k5 on the top of a sand mound and those factory spacers bent back the frame rail in two very pronounced areas (where the little spacers were). Now I have 1" square tubing it its place. They will spread the force over a much larger area.
     

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