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Dropping gas tank

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by spearchucker, Apr 13, 2004.

  1. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    I'm getting ready to install an ORD shackle flip and figured that as long as I'm swinging the gas tank down on one side I should go ahead and replace the 15 yr old fuel pump and sock (from AC Delco). The tank is almost empty, probably about a gallon or two left. I was wondering if I need to drop the tank completely down and remove all the hoses or can I just let it swing out of the way on the front hinges and remove the fuel pump assembly that way? Also any hints or tips to keep from becoming CK5's first astronaut are welcome. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    well good thing the tank is almost empty... when My dad and I installed the shackle flip on my sub it had a half of tank /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif we just removed the whole tank and we used the fork lift to remove it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif we did the the install at his shop but it looks like you wont have to. also we used an air chessle to remove the rivets good luck with the install and be patient it tooks us forever to do the install...


    justin
     
  3. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    I've got an air chisel and thought about using it for the rivets. Did it elongate the holes at all or did they just pop right off? Also, which chisel head did you use, I've got several different heads but thought the flat or the V-shaped one would work best.
     
  4. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I've got an air chisel and thought about using it for the rivets. Did it elongate the holes at all or did they just pop right off? Also, which chisel head did you use, I've got several different heads but thought the flat or the V-shaped one would work best.

    [/ QUOTE ]


    the hole didn't elongate but your going to have to drill out the old hole anyways to the size of the grade 8 bolt(I don't remember the size)we used the flat chisle and just kept sharping it with the bench grinder. the funny thing was after we go out all of the rivets we found the v-shape chisle. Try both to so what works best...

    justin
     
  5. rcpilot

    rcpilot 1/2 ton status

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    I had top drop my tank to replace it and the sending unit... dropping the tank altogether I believe will be much easier... you might as well replace all the lines at that time.. if you swing it down then you will still need to support it.. might as well drop it.. me and a friend were able to lower mine with no problem and it had about 5 gals still in it..
     
  6. grd2go

    grd2go Registered Member

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    just drop the tank its not that hard I have a set of 1 inch ratchet straps that I sling the tank with makes it easy on the rivets I use a grinder and punch I droped all the body mounts off a crewcab in a hour including overload brackets.. /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crewcab.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif
     
  7. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, I'm stumpped! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif For those of you who say "just drop the gas tank" how did you do it? You make it sound like nothing. Apparently there are two hoses on the filler tube that need to be removed before I can lower it to disconnect the other fuel lines. Not only do they not budge after losening the clamps but I don't see how you got your hand in there to remove them. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I know that everyone who's installed an ORD flip on a Blazer has had the same problem, so tell me how you did it. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif I'm getting ready to cut a 2x2 foot hole in my floor. /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
     
  8. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i had to remove a s10 blazer tank 4 time because of pump problems, it would bo sooooooo much easier to cut a hole in the floor to get to the lines. in fact if i ever get a blazer and need to remove the tank thats what im going to do. put some hinges on it and a sheet metal screw to hold it down. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  9. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    once you remove the hoses clamps, theres 2 straps that hold up the gas tank. the problem is that the hoses get wedge between the fame and the body you just got to wiggle it tell it come free so you can drop it...


    justin
     
  10. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I have removed a few fuel tanks in my day, and I usually end up using a razor blade knife to cut the filler hose and then use a flat blade screwdriver to peel it off. When a hose is so old and corroded that it will not come off reasonably easy, then it is time to get a new one (as long as you have it off, might as well replace it). As already mentioned, you may have to cut the fuel tank strap bolt studs off, and then purchase new tank straps. Also, make sure you use a brass punch to rotate the fuel sending assembly when removing it. If you use a steel tool to remove it...one spark and it's KABOOM!
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Disconnect the fill neck and fill neck "vent tube" from the body side, since you can get to that easily. You'll need to bend the filler hose to get it to clear everything for the tank to drop, but it's no biggie. You can wedge a screwdriver in between the rubber hose and the fill neck to break the bond between the metal and rubber. Usually twisting the rubber hose will work to completely break it free. It may take some work.

    It's also not a bad idea to jack the body up (leave tires on ground) so that you've got more room to work.

    Don't forget to disconnect the black ground wire from the frame, and on the TBI stuff, you can disconnect both of the other wires at the weatherpack connector, so when the tank drops you don't break them.

    I'm not into replacing those things, even though the K5 filler is fairly easy to find, it's still money you shouldn't need to spend, at least if you are cheap/thrifty like myself. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Once you get those off, get a floor jack or something, preferably with a piece of plywood on top so that it doesn't mar the tank. Position the jack so you can best get the straps to drop down from the rear of the truck. It will still be in the way, guaranteed, when the straps are undone, but at least it will keep tension off of the straps as you loosen them. Since the tank is almost empty, you will be able to manhandle it fairly easily.

    Once you get the straps off, let the floor jack down slowly, until the tank is down a bit. Preferably with the front of the tank down, then go in from the front, and undo the lines. You'll need tubing wrenches, don't want to twist the fittings off.

    Once those are off, then you can drop the tank all the way down.

    I found it MUCH easier to deal with everything by removing the bumper, and if still present on your truck, that filler piece between the tailgate and bumper for sure. The nuts on the two straps are much easier to deal with that way.
     
  12. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the write up, good info in there. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif I'm done with it for tonight but I'll use that info and see how it goes tomorrow. I've already got the bumper and filler piece off, those were the first things I did. The straps came off without a problem and the tank is now supported by a couple of ropes. I may just end up cutting the hoses as was suggested earlier. WTF am I thinking trying to reuse old rubber hoses? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Find the hoses before you cut them. IIRC when it came down to it, NAPA only has one length, and it was over $20 for the filler hose.

    Waste of money IMO, those things aren't exposed to heat, pressure (much anyway) or UV, they should pretty much last forever (and do) unless screwed with. As long as the rubber isn't cracking, reuse shouldn't be a problem.
     

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