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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by takebackthepower, Feb 22, 2006.
how hard is it to run dual batt's?
has anyone here done it
piece of cake. I run 3 in my rig.
Seabass (a.k.a. that12voltguy) just came out with a prety spiffy setup for running isolated duals. Its a complete kit with wiring and a switch panel and everything, even battery cables.
If you just really want to spend alot of money, check out hellroaring's isolators. They are hella expensive though.
I run a 95 amp battery isolator for mine. I got it at NAPA. Click HERE. The pic below is a diagram of how mine are wired.
Both batteries are completely seperate. My K5 was in storage for most of '04. When I went to start it in Feb. '05 the main battery had a dead cell. I just used the 2nd battery to start the truck and it fired right up. I think I spent about $40 or $50 total for the isolator and a wire kit they had for them.
I have been kicking this idea around for a while.
Should I use a high output alternator when doing this?
I've just been running my stock alternator so far with no problems. My volt gauge still shows about 13-14 output. I'll eventually upgrade to a bigger one, but probably not until this one craps out.
I already have the factory second tray from a camper special. Looks like it is time to put it to good use.
No problem, I thought I had the part number for the wiring kit but I lost it. If I remember right it was on a rack on the sales floor. Just ask them and they can probably get it for you.
sweet, thanks guys
I'm Runnin a 200 amp set up it is nice, Well the isolater is a 200 amp isolator, my alt is only about 160. I had some trouble with the Aux battery, it went dead once. I recharged it and it seems to work fine. I was confused after that in trying to figure out why the battery was not recharging on its own. Alas I still have no clue. Its a yellow top optima so go figure. Anywho the set up is great to have, maybe my alt is week. Cause my needle goes down when I'm at an idle and I turn my stereo up. Maybe if someone knows better than me you could tell me How it works. Here's what I know When the truck is off and the acc is on The isolator runs the yellow top when the Motor cranks over the isolator then switches to the red top, Then when the red top cycles and charges the isolator stops charging the red top to prevent over charging. So when does the yellow top get charged?
Anywho I seem to be notorious for adding my own questions on someone elses Question, sorry for that. I sure appreciate ya'lls help though. To the og poster I think the dual Batt set up is a great thing to have.Good Luck
If you are running an isolator similar to the one in the link I posted above both of your batteries should charge at the same time if it's wired right.
An isolator is not a bad idea, but not really needed if you simply want dual batteries. Keep in mind that many factory applications just wired the batteries together, like my '90 with the 6.2 diesel. I've never had any problems with this setup and have a winch and 140 amp alternator.
If you have the cash, Wrangler NW makes some nice kits and accessories. I went the NAPA isolator route with my K5, but I just bought a Wrangler kit for my 2500 HD. The brackets, tray, relay and wiring are all high quality. I haven't installed it yet, but it looks to be rather simple and with their Battery Manager option, you can keep the batteries isolated or tie them together for starting/winching etc. at the flip of a dash-mounted switch.
Let me know how that works! sounds pretty interesting!
I finished it a few hours ago. It only took a couple of hours to install and it seems to work great. I tried all the settings and tested the system and all appears okay. There were a few issues with the wiring instructions, but with a little electrical know-how it was simple enough to figure out. The brackets mounted just as they should and the cables and wiring fell right into place. I'll let you know how it's holding up after a few months of use.
I have a Hellroaring isolator setup just waiting to go into my truck... Just have to find the time to install it.
It's by far the best on the market, IMO
The isolator is good if you want to seperate some accessories as to not discharge your starting battery.
The 6.2l needs the amps for starting from both batteries that is why they have them hooked together.
In the conversion Vans they always use an isolator to charge and maintain a seperate battery for the TV, fridge, etc.. when used with the engine off.
I have dual Duralast Gold 1000 amp batteries wired together without an isolator. I haven't had any problems in the 15 months they have been installed. I had thought about using a large switch to have the option of using:
Master kill switch (no batteries)
I still may add something like that in the future, with the main benefit of being able to shut down the electrical system in event of rollover, fire, etc.
i like your set up. what do you need to do it?
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