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Dual Batteries are in!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Oct 17, 2003.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    All this talk of switches, isolators, solenoids, etc. makes me sick.

    I wired mine in parallel and put a disconnect on it. When I leave the truck sit, I'll disconnect it. When I go to drive it, I'll hook it up and go! Extra power for the winch that is on the way when it's hooked up, and like it's not even there when I disconnect it. I used #2 welding cable to hook it up and a stock battery tray from a diesel that I scrounged from the junkyard.

    All in all, a good mod. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Made me some new battery hold downs too, don't know what happened to the old one but I was using a rachet strap as the last universal hold down failed to hold the battery securely when I rolled my truck over.

    I was working with the sawzall on the rear fenders and I got a little bit carried away. Oh well...at least it'll still clear the 38s when I take the body lift off. My truck is hacked almost as much as Steve's now. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif A little too much for a DD, but since my truck is a weekend driver/trail rig and I'm going to be swapping bodies soon it's fine. Less place for mud to hide and rust it out too.
     
  2. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Sounds cool, I plan on doing dual batteries soon too. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    As of now, nothing cool about having them other than looks and the fact that I can jump myself!
     
  4. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

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    [ QUOTE ]
    and the fact that I can jump myself!


    [/ QUOTE ] hehehe ,Yeah, you should get right on that.... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  5. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    whatever tim, cool, great , thats nice, good for you. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  6. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

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    yep, i might do that someday. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  7. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    could you either post, or email me a diagram of your wiring. i've already got the second battery mounted, just not hooked up. also, if i do this, does it matter if the batteries aren't the exact same amps. they are within 100 amps of each other. thanks in advance for any help.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    rick
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [​IMG]

    Sorry, I just couldn't resist.

    It doesn't matter how many amps the battery is capable of putting out, both must be 12 v batteries.

    I am disconnecting mine to, "isolate" them when the engine is not running so one will not discharge the other. I will only bother to do so when it's gonna sit for a while though.
     
  9. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    so all i need to do is hook one positive to the other, and do the same with the negatives? or ground both batteries to the chassis, and hook the positives together. i'm not sure if you are trying to be a smart ass with that picture or not. i don't know crap about wiring batteries together. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  10. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    im confused on how to hook dual batterys up..how do you do it exactly!? basicly all id want it for was if one died or i needed extra power..can you run them both at the same time?
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    You can do it either way. Ground is ground. Hooking the negatives together is the same as grounding them both.
     
  12. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    what kind of a wire can u use to hook them up from one terminal to the other terminal on the other battery..is that how it works? one battery is hooked up with the battery cables and then the other battery is hooked up to the main battery's terminals or something!!?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  13. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    cool, thanks. this week i'll get some cable and get them hooked together. what kind of switch did you use? i'd like to put that in too. starting in february, my K5 is going to mostly sit for about a year, only getting started and maybe driven once or twice a month.
     
  14. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    what we do with farm equipment and trucks around here that have 3 to 4 batteries is just wire them together as one big batery. This is how all semi trucks are wired and it works fine except when one gets bad but that just requires a simple battery test for each battery and find the bad one. This is how I am probably going to wire mine and just buy 2 new batteries and when one goes bad in a few years I will just replace both because the second one would be old too anyway.
     
  15. 72beater

    72beater 1/2 ton status

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    this series connection stuff will work great UNLESS one of the batteries has an internal short, thus rapidly discharging the other one and leading (possibly) to excess out gassing and explosion. SO, please do install, as a minimum, a switch between them ( an isolator is better), and keep it open when not in use. I don't want to read about someone's rig burning down! Another consideration about lead-acid batteries is that they are sensitivee to how they are charged. If you are now charging two batteries from an alternator designed to charge one, it will obviously take longer to get a given charge, and since no two batteries are ever identical, you will end up charging one better than the other due to internal battery characteristic differences. also, the battery will not last as long when charged at the wrong amp-hour rate. This is another good reason for either an isolator or a bigger alternator. OK, I am off my soap box.
    Sorry,
    Ernest
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    1. There is a switch between them. See schmatic again. I even have said at least once that I'm going to disconnect the 2nd battery when it is not in use. Many vehicles use this arrangement from the factory and don't even bother to disconnect them.

    2. Batteries will only charge at one rate. You aren't going to fast charge a car bettery with the entire 63 amp output of the stock alternator. I do have a big alternator in mind to try to take up some of the load, but not to try to charge the batteries faster. To think that you could buy a 140 amp alternator and charged the batteries will all that current is ridculous.

    3. My batteries are wired in PARALLEL, not series. Look again.

    4. My choice whether or not I'm going to buy a bigger alternator has nothing to do with my wiring arrangement.

    5. Using a solenoid between the batteries as some people do is exactly the same as what I'm doing except that I manually hook up the 2nd battery before I start my rig up and go out for the day. So, I have to open my hood, but at least I don't have to worry about a starter solenoid working much harder than necessary and being used beyond its design limits.
     
  17. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The switch that I used was simply a battery disconnect. I put it in the negative cable so I can disconnect it and drop it and not worry about it shorting out on something.

    I used #2 welding cable for my auxillary battery leads. My primary battery has #2 battery cables that were pre-made when I bought them. I used brass crimp on eyelets and top post terminals as necessary. I bought 10 feet and used all of it because I ran the grounds to the same location on the alternator bracket.
     
  18. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Going to do mine soon. summit makes some real nice battery boxes .Always wired mine in parallel and never had any problems
     
  19. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Hooking two batteries together in series on a Blazer or truck I don't think would work at all. You will end up with 24 volt system. Most of the stuff in our trucks will stand up to more than 12 volts and I have heard of some people making there system an 18 volt system and most things working but I doubt 24 volts would work very well. Not saying that it can't be done. Military uses 24 volt systems. Your CD player would definitely not like 24 volts. As for parallel, this is how all the old deisels were wired. They didn't have a switch between them and ran for years that way. 84ChevyK10 I think your right on here. I used to have a set wired just like you have yours now and no problems at all. I didn't even unhook them when not in use and they never killed each other like everybody says. Unhooking one is a good insurance. You'll love it when its 20 below out and the guy down the block can't start his fuel injected newer truck and yours fires right up on all that cold cranking amperage. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif One thing about your starting system. It only draws as much amperage as it needs. The colder the motor the more amperage it will draw. If you have heavy cables your good to go. #2 welding cable is an excellent choice. It will carry more amperage than a standard battery cable as there are more conductors in it. Yep, smaller conductors but still more. Another thing you can do is run your ground cable that goes to the chassis right to the mounting bolt of your starter. That usually makes a huge difference in starting. I guess when you ground to frame and then through the engine and then to the starter you lose a little. Sorry so long but had to speak on this one. I read so much about isolators being necessary and all that stuff. Not true. Maybe some systems need them but not all.
     
  20. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Hooking two batteries together in series on a Blazer or truck I don't think would work at all. You will end up with 24 volt system. Most of the stuff in our trucks will stand up to more than 12 volts and I have heard of some people making there system an 18 volt system and most things working but I doubt 24 volts would work very well. Not saying that it can't be done. Military uses 24 volt systems. Your CD player would definitely not like 24 volts. As for parallel, this is how all the old deisels were wired. They didn't have a switch between them and ran for years that way. 84ChevyK10 I think your right on here. I used to have a set wired just like you have yours now and no problems at all. I didn't even unhook them when not in use and they never killed each other like everybody says. Unhooking one is a good insurance. You'll love it when its 20 below out and the guy down the block can't start his fuel injected newer truck and yours fires right up on all that cold cranking amperage. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif One thing about your starting system. It only draws as much amperage as it needs. The colder the motor the more amperage it will draw. If you have heavy cables your good to go. #2 welding cable is an excellent choice. It will carry more amperage than a standard battery cable as there are more conductors in it. Yep, smaller conductors but still more. Another thing you can do is run your ground cable that goes to the chassis right to the mounting bolt of your starter. That usually makes a huge difference in starting. I guess when you ground to frame and then through the engine and then to the starter you lose a little. Sorry so long but had to speak on this one. I read so much about isolators being necessary and all that stuff. Not true. Maybe some systems need them but not all.

    [/ QUOTE ] yep,hook em in series and your electronics will burn up faster than you can say Sh!t.stater will take it for a little while,,,,,,,,
     

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