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dual battery setup

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by tarheel, Apr 18, 2003.

  1. tarheel

    tarheel Registered Member

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    hey guys! i need some ideas on a dual battery setup. i plan on running dual optima yellow tops. i'd like to see some pics of configurations that have worked for you. also, how do you wire those things? pos to pos & neg to neg? help!!! /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. Jim Johnson

    Jim Johnson Registered Member

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    A buddy of mine runs dual batteries on his toyota, he has them mounted on the flat bed. I can't remeber how he has it hooked up,
    Next time I see his truck, I will make note of how he has it - I THINK he has the + & - tied together, then off one battery runs
    the + up to the engine, then he just ground the - off the other battery
    to his flatbed.
     
  3. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    if you wanna do it right take a look at this stuff it's a little spendy but it's worth it
    http://www.hellroaring.com/
    http://www.wranglernw.com/

    why do you want yellow tops? i have read several threads that concluded that for our useage red tops work best.
    Optima will agree to red tops work the best for what we need them for.
     
  4. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    The links posted are great places to get that stuff. Also you may want to do a search on this, its been posted many times with really good info in the responses.

    John
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I am using the www.hellroaring.com iso/combiner it has worked great ever sence I installed it!! AWSOME!!
     
  6. BurbLover

    BurbLover 1/2 ton status

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    Guys I know do it using a Furd coil. They run the vehicle off one battery, all accessoriess off the other and both get charged at the same time. It seams to work alot better and fairly cheap to do. Also easier for alot of people as you can have the batteries on the opposite fenderwells.

    Anyway, just my $0.02.
    /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. fredekr

    fredekr Registered Member

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    Assuming both of your batteries are 12V, you better hook up + to + and neg to neg. Unless you want a 24V system, that is... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

    As far as isloating/combining... isolating/combining is so that you can drain one battery without affecting the other, but still get them both charged up once the alternator is putting out current. Like if you want to run a winch without the engine running, but still want to start the engine when you're done. So, the isolator is just a switch of some sort -- cheapest option is a solenoid, with a manual switch or trigged off your ignition. The hellroaring looks like a nice unit. It performs the same functions as a solenoid, with the advantage that it's solid state (doesn't wear out) and automatic (senses voltage to decide when to connect the spare battery and get it charged). You can also wire a solenoid to a switch and pay attention to your voltmeter and then you're basically a human hellroaring unit -- with a couple caveats, like your solenoid will wear out eventually and need to be replaced (cheap).

    I've never used optima, but from what I've read, the yellow tops will start your engine but they are not designed for it (even though optima misleadingly gives them a CCA rating). I'd say go for a red top as your starting and a yellow for your winch and what not. JMHO. What are you using the batteries for, anyway? Choose the battery for the intended use.

    Also remember to think about your alternator when upgrading batteries. A discharged battery constitutes an additional load on the alternator and the alternator regulator will sense the voltage drop that the empty battery creates and will try to run the alternator at a higher (amperage) output to keep voltage up. Unfortunately, alternators have a 50% duty cycle so they don't like to be run at the max rating for very long. The local alternator rebuilder here says that about 20 minutes is all most alternators can take at their rated output. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif If you fully discharge a yellow top (to 10.5 volts or so), according to their specs it will try to suck a fair amount of current to recharge itself, probably 20 amps max at the voltages an alternator will put out. (The deep cycle batteries I have will try to suck 50 amps or more /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif, which is probably why my starting battery and/or 60 amp alternator is dying /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)


    cheers,
    Kevin
     
  8. fredekr

    fredekr Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Guys I know do it using a Furd coil.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    How does that work? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I thought all the coil does is increase voltage... I don't think you'd want to put the battery on the other end of that /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif...

    cheers,
    Kevin
     
  9. BurbLover

    BurbLover 1/2 ton status

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    The Furd coils acts like a isolator. I'll get more info from my friend who hooks em up that way.
    /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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