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dual tank valve

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by az-k5, Nov 19, 2006.

  1. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I can't get my RH tank to work. I checked the wireing and it works correctly as far as I can tell (Port B on, and port D on) Port D turns off when dash switch is flipped. Got a new valve and plugged it in. Don't hear anything and the gauge doesn't change. What am I missing?

    This is on a 1984 6 port valve with a mechanical pump.
     
  2. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Just pulled the switch. Checked it. One of the tabs never turns on. It this how it is supposed to work?

    Matt
     
  3. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    How soon do you need to know? I can check my K30 or K10 for correct operation.
     
  4. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    By wed. Ya know, D-day. I need the cruise range.

    Thanx
     
  5. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I'll check tomorrow afternoon and post up.
     
  6. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Here's the skinny...

    The switch is a momentary reversing switch. The contacts don't actually make until the switch is depressed fully (in either direction). When you let go it springs back, and all contacts then go open, even though it appears the switch is up (or down).

    Looking at the face of the switch, or the female connector behind the switch I have the following (on Mine, '81):

    Upper left- Light Green wire = one side of the gas valve motor
    Upper right- Dark Green wire= The other side of the gas valve motor
    Lower right- Pink wire= Fused Ign B+
    Lower left= Black wire= Ground

    Here's how it works

    When the switch is depressed fully in the up position:
    Pink (B+) is connected to Dk Grn
    Black (Gnd) is connected to Lt Grn

    When the switch is depressed fully in the down position:
    Pink (B+) is connected to Lt Grn
    Black (Gnd) is connected to Dk Grn

    Basically what you are doing is reversing the polarity at the motor, making it go the other direction. A side note- inside the valve itself is where the fuel sender signal from each tank is sent to the gage on the dash. It is possible that the valve is actually shifting, but the switches inside the valve itself aren't switching the sender inputs to the gage. I would check the electrical first:

    With ignition on, and the dash switch removed from the connector:
    Confirm 12V between Pink and Black. If not, bad fuse/ wiring.
    Confirm 7-8 Ohms between Dk Grn and Lt Grn. If not, open wiring, bad gas valve motor
    Confirm switch operation: Fully pressed should short the switch teminals described above. If not, bad switch.

    Call me if you have questions. Gotta run, Parker awaits.... yeeehaaa :)
     
  7. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Got it. It was the switch. The old valve still works so now I have a spare.

    Just gotta get the signal lever changed (it was broken right at the relief/ dedent)
     

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