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Dumb Idea or not?

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by 79Stomper, Jan 28, 2007.

  1. 79Stomper

    79Stomper 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    It may be a little too late to ask but I figured I would go ahead and ask.

    I am in the process of wiring my project. I pulled a wiring harness out of an M1008 and well have been hacking at it. Well today when I got to wiring in the Injector Pump and what I guess is the controller on the firewall I kind of hit a little snag. I was looking at all the wires heading into the firewall and well quite frankly I am confused. What all is required to run the IP and the controller on the firewall? Is there a brain that controls current or different readings going to it? After examining the CUCV harness it looks like there was a control module that plugged into one of the connectors.


    My plan is to do a complete custom wiring job on the truck to get away from all of the GM/CUCV wiring bird nests under the dash. I am trying to keep it all fairly simple with a 6 strip fuse block and just the necessities as it will be a trail only rig.


    Also, does anyone have a "Simple" wiring diagram of doing the manual glow plug relay switch. Also any suggestions with wiring in the dual alternator setup.

    TIA:thumb:
    James
     
  2. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    I'm just fininshing doing the same thing. The only wires the IP needs is the pinkwire for the power and the daisy chained green wire for the advance. The green wire has 3 conections, two on the IP then down to the temp sender(I think that what it is). Completely remove the glowplug harness and use a manual push button switch, the GP harness and controller are interwoven in the harness and makes it very confusing. There is also a group of wire just to the right of the fuel filter (not the ones attached to the filter). Those are for the diagnostic port inside the truck, unnessary for every day use, uplug the connector and remove all the wire from the harness(I left the firewall connector) . The best way I found to do this is to remove, after lableing the wires, the entire harness from the truck and spread it on the garage floor, grab and diagram and start tracing and removing wires. It's not that bad once you understand what everything is for. Also, check www.gm-diesel.com I got most of my info from there and a guy under hjacobson. You can search under my name (same as here) for some quick ansewers.
     
  3. 79Stomper

    79Stomper 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Would you mind snapping some pics for me. I understand (I think) what your saying but I am more of a visual person. I have pulled the entire harness out of the vehicle and labeled what I though I would need to hook back up into the new vehicle. So far I marked everything that I needed but I am sure there are some that I have forgotten. When you say the wires coming off of the filter, which set. There is a set of 4 with a weatherpack connector coming out as well as a 2 prong one coming out of it. I would really appreciate it if you had some pics floating around. I will do some searching on here and the other site tonight as my connection at work sucks.

    Also, lets say to kill the engine I would just put a switch on the big pink wire to shut it down?

    I thought wiring the diesel would be pretty simple but then i keep running into these little problems here and there.
     
  4. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    The wireing connector next to the filter coming out of the firewall is for the diagnostic stuff. The wires going into the filter are for water infuel and heater ( I removed it and am going to an aftermarket filter).

    I haven't taken any pic.'s.

    Yes, if you cut power to the pink wire the fuel will stop flowing and the engine will stop.

    The only wires needed to start are the IP wires and the starer wire. All the others are unessary to start (asside from the GP's). But you should keep some gauges working, I'm going aftermarket.
     
  5. 79Stomper

    79Stomper 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    If you take a look at what I am doing down in the link in my signature you will see that I am doing a complete rewire on it all and trying to eliminate all unnecessary wiring with aftermarket gauges. Only bits and pieces of factory harness will remain and most of the larger pieces will be lighting but still controlled by individual switches on the "Dash". Now when you say an aftermarket filter by chance know what type your running off the top of your head? Not to make myself sound dumb, which I am about to anyways, that little rectangle box on the firewall is a fuel filter?
     
  6. bear76

    bear76 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't installed them yet but I got a three gauge set from pepboys. It's a volt meter, temp, and somthing else I don't remember right now. I get the gist of what your doing. I am replacing/replaced everything except for the lights, which will be modified due to the blackout light stuff. My suggestion is to delete everything but the IP and purple starter wire. Make you own GP harness, like I'm doing. I have decided to use 10gauge wire for the GP's because I like to over due things.

    Oh, and the aftermarket filter, I don't have the part numbers off the top of my head but I can look them up. If you go over to that other site, go into the non-turbo section and search for filter replacement, tons of info.
     
  7. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Think of the injector pump like the HEI on a small block 350... only takes one hot 12V ignition source to run it.

    The gp's are only needed to start the truck so you use a basic relay (ford style starter relay is good) with a push button control on the dash. Supply the power to your switch off of the relay and run the "ground" wire to the dash mounted switch to keep it as simple as possible.

    The daisy chain of wires for cold starting are optional really... they help with cold starts and act like the choke on a gas motor. Pump the hell out of it and give it half throttle and it will still start without it.
     
  8. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    While cranking right? Pumping the pedal with the ignition off won't do anything with an IP.
     
  9. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    lol... yes :haha: I don't think you have any chance at starting a truck with the ignition off though.
     

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