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Dumb question - re: shifter slop

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Shaggy, Sep 2, 2003.

  1. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Will one of these help fix the loosey-goosey shifter on my 465? The add says that they work on the Muncie, but it's vague on what other trannys they're for. I'm not even sure if this is a part that wears, or if it's more the end of the shifter that is what gets worn out.</font>
     
  2. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Shagz,

    I think that only covers and locks in the shifter pivot. I think you are prolly correct in thinking its the end of the shifter that wears. Not real sure, my SM465 existance was only that of a year! 'Twas a good year though! /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  3. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    I dont think so
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    No thats not the problem. (at least all that I've seen)

    Pull that piece off your tranny, and pull the shifter out. Look at the end. 9 times out of 10 you'll see the cracked welds at the end. I've tried out the 465 with those welds unbroken, and broken. Probably enough additonal play on the broken ones to hit the dash, where an unbroken one wouldn't.
     
  5. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Can it just be welded back up and filed smooth, or does the shifter have to be replaced? </font>
     
  6. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Evan, My shifter had the exact same cracked welds and sloppy movement. I took it out, cleaned it up in the parts washer at work, TIG welded it all back the way it whould be, and stuck it back in the tranny. No problems. It's alot better, but still loose, I think thats just the way a 465 shifter is. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I never really thought about it until Burt showed me how tight his stick is. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif </font>
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I agree about thats the way they are. It can be better when welded, but you aren't going to have that no slop shift feel you come to expect in newer vehicles.

    FWIW the weld doesn't really need to be flat. As I recall the weld is at an approx. 90* junction, and you just kind of lay a bead on it.
     
  9. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    On my shifter, there were two plug welds that were cracked, and the welds you're talkin about that were also cracked. I welded them both back up. The plug welds had to be slightly sanded to get them flush again, but the others didn't. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  10. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Here's a picture of my shifter. You can kinda see the plug weld in this picture.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. HellsK10

    HellsK10 Registered Member

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    Woaw, this one's old! Anyhow, this had some of the best info I could find, as bad as it was, but has anyone replaced the rollpin and had better luck eliminating the slop? It seems all my play is from that and the two broken tacks.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I don't know as the shifter wasn't designed with that slop in it.

    I checked a few old posts and didn't see anything referencing the pin. There are supposed to be two square cut (I assume) "seals" on the piece the pin retains, most of the time they are missing/destroyed. Those would take up a lot of slack if they were hard and big enough, however only thing people have been able to find are o-rings, which probably aren't hard enough to really do the job.

    Someone mentioned scarf-cut rings, like used on auto transmissions, but I don't have any to try.
     

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