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E-brake and 14 bolts

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Aug 19, 2001.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I found another speed bump. I noticed that on my 90 the passenger side e-brake cable runs to the driver side then up.
    The 14 bolt has 2 cables of equal length, point towards a center pull mecanizm. Any ideas or options on remadying this
    situation? Got a idea from trustyk5, want to hear more input![​IMG]

    Thanks

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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  2. WhiteWhomper

    WhiteWhomper 1/2 ton status

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    You need to get backing plates from a later model semi-floating 14 bolt. Your 10 bolt cables will then thread right through the backing plates like original.
     
  3. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    whats the idea trustyk5 gave you?

    Dawson
    Raleigh, NC

    88 K5, 6" lift, 36" TSL Radials, 14 Bolt, Rancho 9012s
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Oddly enough I mentioned SF 14 bolt backing plates first...

    My 81 Jimmy came with the center pull e-brake, so i thought maybe Brandon could find an older K-5 and adapt to the older style E-brake.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  5. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Or you can look under a Burb with a 3/4 ton suspention. Also you can use 1 ton brakes which is what I will be doing.

    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  6. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Wayne, or you could pony up and go with rear discs to start with, you know you want to. I will give you that TSM charges heavy cash for two pices of steel, but do it once, and do it right, or do it a couple, three, four, oh damit, never mind how many times I did it. I did it last week from TSM, got rest of stuff locally, cost all in all about 345.

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  7. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    So let me think a loud here! If I get the backing plates off a semi 14 would I not have to go with the same drums to match that semi 14 or same size shall I say?
    The drums Im using are the LARGE 14's. IF they dont match up then I'd have to convert to the smaller brake setup.
    Or I might just do what I told Rene adn use the 350 heads I have as chokes!!!![​IMG]

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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  8. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    That would keep ya in shape using SBC heads for wheel chocks...but I think Ford heads are more suitable for the job...[​IMG]

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  9. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I made mine work. It was a shot in the dark, but it worked. I basically took all of the "clip" parts off of the cables the truck has and made then fit into the "sandwich" part of the 14 bolt backing plates. You have to make a small cut in the axle brackets so you can install the cables from the truck but it worked for me and nothing wrong with the set up for about 4 months now.
    Did I confuse you? Well I confused myself too. It's a lot easier to do than to explain.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHATA?</font color=red>
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  10. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    One more thing........I still have the "clip" parts that I took off of the truck cables. If you want I can take a pic of them tommorrow and show them to you?

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red>HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF CHATA?</font color=red>
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  11. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You need SF backing plates from a 3/4 ton, from '83 and newer. Either 2wd or 4wd backing plates will work fine.

    You can get these off of '83 to '87 3/4 ton trucks, and '83 to '91 3/4 ton Suburbans.


    <font color=blue>"Ya don't have to beat it, ya know!!!</font color=blue>

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  12. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    here are the part #s
    14056175 plate 5.001pl 40.50$
    14056176 plate 5.001pl 37.69$
    this cost me 78.19$
    these parts are for an 88 v20 suburban I installed them today remember you have to have your original E brake cables and hardware to use these also buy new brake springs while your at it.

    88k5 silverado w4"lift <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
     
  13. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Yep you confussed me. You got me thinkinh and I believe I can figure out a way to make the 90's E-brake stuff work.
    Ahhhh, all of the sudden I got what you mean by the sandwich part. 10-4. Im with you now. Cool Beans.
    And if it wont stay I can all ways use the welder!!![​IMG]

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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  14. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I like Esteban's idea/way better than the rest of your alls ideas. His doesn't cost any more money.
    Este, the only thing Im confused about is the cut in the axle bracket your refering to. Can you be little more specific?

    What is and what should never be....
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  15. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Oh Come oooown!!! Somebody else has to have done this!!!!![​IMG]

    What is and what should never be....
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  16. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    O.K lets try to explain this a little more. When you take the e-brake cable and it's mount off the backing plate, you will have two pieces, one will still be on the cable and the other is what sort of "sandwiches" the whole assembly onto the backing plate. Now, the one that is still on the cable is the one you need to modify. First you start by taking it off the cable. If I remember correctly, it was crimped on. So you uncrimp it and at this point you can cut the cable off to remove it completely. Now that the part is off the cable we have to get you trucks cable to fit. On the truck cable you have to remove the clip that holds it on the 10 bolt backing plate. I just slowly ground it untill it fell off. Now what you need to do is get that cable through the bracket and your set. In order to get it through the bracket you have to cut a slit in it or cut you cable. I didn't feel comfortable cutting and resoldering the tip of the cable because I felt my solder job would be weaker than factory and there is a lot of pressure on that little tip. So I jut cut a slit in the bracket, slid the cable through and crimped the bracket back around the new cable.
    I think that is about it. Good luck trying to understand me and if you have any more ?'s just ask[​IMG].

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red></font color=red>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Estebans-album>Take A Gander At My Truck Here.</a>
     
  17. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Este, thats what I needed. I understand now. [​IMG]

    What is and what should never be....
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  18. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm gonna have to copy all of that down so when someone asks again I won't have to type all of that in again.[​IMG]
    Glad it helped. Let me know how it turns out.

    <font color=blue>Esteban</font color=blue>

    <font color=red></font color=red>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Estebans-album>Take A Gander At My Truck Here.</a>
     
  19. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Will do. Will be tomorrow afternoon when I find out!

    What is and what should never be....
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  20. lasvegas

    lasvegas 1/2 ton status

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    I had a local shop put in my 14bolt/dana60. The guy at the shop made a neat adaptor which hooked the 14 bolt e-brake cables up to my stock e-brake cable on the truck. Both 14 bolt cables run from the axle exactly like they did on the truck they came off of and he made a little bracket that held them together up by the e-brake cable on my blazer and then he made a threaded piece that ran into the bracket from the stock blazer cable so the whole thing is totally adjustable. I am VERY particular about stuff on my truck and have spent the money to do everything either top quality off the shelf or custom. They charged me a little over $5 for the parts and it works like stock, nothing is monkeyed up and it is totally adjustable. If anyone wants to see it, I will take pictures because it is a lot simpler than all this parts swapping stuff you guys are posting up about because it uses all the stock stuff from the 14 bolt axle and your blazer.
     

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