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Eaton OR a 14 bolt?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by JpEater, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. JpEater

    JpEater 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to start on another project soon. I already have another 60 front but need a rear. I was going to get a 14 bolt but while checking out a junk yard today after finding 3 14 bolt ff's I found 2 Eaton rears. I am going back in the morning to get a few other things I found and want to know... Should I get a 14 bolt or get the Eaton? Its going to be for a buggy and will never see the street.
     
  2. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    Check the width some eatons are narrow. Id love to have an eaton over a 14 bolt. ALot more ground clearance. The only downside is eatons have less splines on there axles which makes them a lil weaker. I do believe you can run a 14 bolt detriot and 14 bolt axles to solve that problem though:D
     
  3. JpEater

    JpEater 1/2 ton status

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    The 60 I have is DRW. I have a guy that said he would swap me a van 14 bolt to go with the DRW front. I have been thinking about the eaton cause of good ground clearance but I would have to change the hubs on the 60 to mach which is no big deal. I just don't know about parts availability for the Eaton.
     
  4. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    There is enough aftermarket support as far as gears/ lockers shafts go, That is if you like detroits!:D

    oh yeah... i forgot about lincon lockers.... they work for every axle ever made...
     
  5. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    I'd go van width 14FF. Find one open, detroit it, and put disks on it. Shave it down for extra clearance- you can take quite a bit of material off of one. Chromo shafts are available too if you need any more strength.
    If one of those Eatons has a Detroit already installed, then that may be a cheaper way to get a built axle.
     
  6. iwaxmyjimmy

    iwaxmyjimmy College web wheeler Premium Member

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    how much do yall figure them Eatons run for?? if its a safe to run the 14bolt shafts and locker on the street then ill think about runnin that
     
  7. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Couple years ago there wasn't anything available for gear for an Eaton, maybe things have changed in the last few years but i'd rather install an axle that is widely available and still being used in trucks today. Wasn't the last Eaton rear axle made about 30+ years ago?
     
  8. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

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    bingo..


    i had one a couple years ago, liked it, looked sexy, and confused the hell out of some:D

    they are very easy to find, look iin 67-72 3/4 ton chevy's all over the wrecking yard, its hard to make a long bed 3/4 ton 2wd worth much, sadly for the rust belt guys alot of those trucks were rusted away and chrushed years ago lol lots in az yards though:wink1:
     
  9. JpEater

    JpEater 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I guess I will go with the 14 bolt and shave it and plate it. The 14 bolt I am running now has never dissapointed me. I can get the Eaton for $78 so thats why I was thinking about it. Don't know if its Detroit or not but they had two.
     
  10. atho

    atho 1/2 ton status

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    you can get 3.90, 4.11, and 4.57 gears (new) for the Eaton. they are very pricy though. most of them came from the factory with 4.57, and the 5.14 isnt uncommon either. you can't get the detroit for it anymore unless its used or NOS, but the 14 bolt locker and shaft trick does work. you can buy every bearing and seal you need to rebuild the chunk over the counter of any parts store. wheel bearings are easy too. the brakes, though, good luck if your drums are shot.

    what i would look for...at some point around '67/'68, the center section casting was changed to add an extra oiling passage to the pinion bearings. you may find them on older axles, and not on newer ones. i havent been able to pin this down for sure. its noticeable if you look at the pinion end, there will be an extra lump on one side. i can try to dig up pics (i have one of each).

    also, some of the axles have a load bolt on the side of the centersection, like the Hi9. it helps prevent the pinion gear from "walking" under load. this may be a one ton vs. 3/4 item, but again i am not exactly sure. you just have to look.

    finally, both of the centersections i have have the gear ratio stamped into them. not the actual number, but the # of pinion teeth over the # of ring gear teeth. one is a '65 that was originally from PA, the other is a '68 originally from MN, so I have to believe this is a factory thing.

    srw versions are 65" wms, drw are 63" wms (same hub types as 14 bolt). there is a van width, that has a wider housing and wider shafts, but these are rare (at least around here). i would guess the shafts would be harder to find, too. i think this is somewhere in the 70" neighborhood.

    speaking of shafts, they are pretty hefty. using a tape measure, mine look to be about 1.5" where they neck down, and around 1.7" at the ends.

    you can get new yokes for these if you want bigger u joints. i know jess @ high angle can get them, and if you have spare time and a spicer book you could probably scare some up. also, have you ever seen the pinion gear for one of these? slightly over 2" in diameter, HUGE.

    a guy on pirate made a custom diff cover for one out of a sch 40 pipe cap, it was pretty sweet, and tough as hell.

    oh, and the ring gear is actually 10-1/8", not 10.5". the petersens 4wor article that says they are 12-1/4" is mistaken, that is the larger brother called the H110 that was optional under one tons and usually under C40 and their ilk. it has 10 lug nuts, and one ton trucks with it optioned had 5 up front, like the 3500HD trucks of the 90's.

    phew, i think thats about it. sorry for the novel.:haha:
     
  11. iwaxmyjimmy

    iwaxmyjimmy College web wheeler Premium Member

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    so u cant run a 14bolt ring and pinion?? and what are exactly the differences of 3/4 ton and 1 ton?? i saw a 3/4 ton old chevy the other day and thought about it
     

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