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Electric fans?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by pvfjr, May 16, 2004.

  1. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Had some trouble with overheating last time I went wheeling. I've since thrown out the auto in favor of a SM465, should help. New thermostat and waterpump too. Is that enough? What about an electric fan? Do the kits come with something that controls them, or do they just run all the time? Should I get a different radiator? I just don't want to be worrying about heat next time I'm slowly crawling up a mountain on a hot day.
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you can find a place that will do it, having a used radiator flow tested is a great idea. The wrecking yard here in Renton wil do it for free.

    After you determine if the radiator is good or bad, then you can make your next move.

    Electric fans *should* be wired either for manual activation, or for automatic activation based on a temp switch. (or two switches for two fans, if you want to get fancy)

    If you leave the fans running all the time, you will impede airflow over the radiator at cruising speeds, where they aren't doing any good.
     
  3. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    So....how far is Renton from McChord? Will they test as you wait? Where would a temp switch go? Can I get all that as part of a complete setup? Where would be a good place to get a kit?
     
  4. ugly_blazer

    ugly_blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Go to Summit Racing and enter part #'s PRF-30103 and PRF-30102(one at a time) in the item number search box. They are complete kits with a sender and a relay to control electric fans.

    I would wire the 12V+ wire through a switched circuit to keep the fans from turning on while the engine is off.
     
  5. fatboy

    fatboy 1/2 ton status

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    I bought the flexalite fans. It is a full kit. likes, lots of cfm they cool fast, can set the temp they come on at easily. Dislikes massave electrical draw at idle, I dont like how you have to install the temp probe(mine always leaks at the upper radiator tube).

    here is a link to the instructions if interested
    web page

    little story, have problems with my fused line to battery melting so I email flexalight and told them. He asked a few questions I responded could it be the reley? He said maybe I sent one to you already. IMO that is customer service
    /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  6. fatboy

    fatboy 1/2 ton status

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    how to get there
    automotive, electric fans, 210 black, instructions /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  7. mtn. burb

    mtn. burb 1/2 ton status

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    Definitly install two of them. And, you'll pick up a few horsepower. dyeager535 is right on the money. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  8. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    1st fix your stock system. If you just add fans then you haven't fixed the problem, just added a band-aid. There is no reason that the stock system shouldn't keep it cool. Sounds like a radiator problem to me. I run two electric fans on mine with the stock system. Because of wheelin in remote locations and Moab at over 100F, the electric is a good back up. It also helps keep my power steering cool when crawling (the PS cooler is right in front of the elec.).
    Another thing to check is your fan clutch if you have one or maybe just replace it, it won't hert.
    You can gain a few HP with elec.s but I prefer to gain peace of mind. Hope this helps,
    Dave
     
  9. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    I am running a 2spd electric fan out of a Ford Taurus w/ a 3.8 V6. It flows massive amounts of air. It is wired thru 2 relays, 1 for each speed, to a 3position toggle. It is only on when I turn it on, and it cools like a champ! I turn it off running down the highway, and run it on low most of the other time. The only time it has gotten hot since I installed it is when I forget to turn the fan on...
     
  10. unick

    unick 1/2 ton status

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    Ill be putting 2 Escort fans in as soon as I get off my lazy butt and get to work.

    Nick
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Renton's about 50 miles North of you...take 512N (or is it east?) to 167N and you'l hit Renton.

    Place is called South End Auto wrecking (there is another of same name further south, no idea if they have a radiator shop though) and they will do it as you stand there and watch. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Temp switch usually goes in the intake, but the passenger side head has a por that is never used that will work as well.

    These things are extremely easy to wire up...GM (and others) used plenty of different temp switches, less than $10 from Napa. You can get the wiring connector from the wrecking yards (if you stay with GM switch) and you can also get the relays from just about any GM late 80's+ vehicle, with the connectors as well. (wrecking yard again)

    If you don't want the fans turning on when the truck is off, wire up one side of the relay to an ignition 12V source. You'll end up with four total wires: 2 small ones. One is the power from the rig that actually switches the relay, the other small wire goes to the switch. (the switch grounds, allows current to flow through, switching the relay)

    The two large wires are even easier, one goes to the relay from the battery, the other large wire goes to the + on the fan. The - wire from the fan is just connected to ground. (frame, core support, etc)
     
  12. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    temp switch should be in the "cold" side of the radiator
    you could get the rad shop to add a fitting for it when they have it out to test
     
  13. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Sorry, but even when an electric fan is turned on, it does not impede air flow into the radiator, the fan blades simply speed up when air flow is pushing through it, on or off, air is still trying to push through it. Basically goes into a nuetral state as air pressure is greater than the fans can pull, still have juice going to the motor, but not doing anything.

    But definately hook up an automatic temp switch, and a manual one if you so desire. But an automatic switch at the desired temp will work fine.
     
  14. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    temp switch should be in the "cold" side of the radiator
    you could get the rad shop to add a fitting for it when they have it out to test

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I personally believe that the temp switch that screws into the side of the bock would be a better option, similar to the one i had on my Camaro, just a ground switch, when it reached it's temp, it switched on the fans, I also replaced my stock 215 switch with a 185 switch i ordered through Jegs. Works out real nice and ya don't have that jerryrigged wire and little sensor probe sticking the radiator.
     
  15. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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  16. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the block temp is irrelevant as to whether the fan needs to supplement the airflow through the rad

    if the rad is cooling the coolant sufficiently without the fan then the cold side will be below set temp
    if the airflow is not enough then the cold side will be above set temp and fan will come on to help

    I would not use that temp probe thing jammed into the hose
    a real thread in replaceable temp sensor like the imports use in their rad
     
  17. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    All i am saying, is this was the factory setup on a car with the factory electric fan setup, there was a sensor mounted in a water port on the passenger side of the engine block below the manifolds that would control the fans. It was basically a water temp sensor.
     
  18. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I used Ford Windstar fans. $75 form the yard, dual setup with a shroud that fits almost perfect on the radiator. Keeps my over-cammed 454 nice and cool with a 4 core.
     
  19. or2play

    or2play 1/2 ton status

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    I'm working on installing windstar fans as well. What relays did you use? I put a relay and circit breaker for each fan. My relays are 30 amp and they seem to be to small.
     
  20. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I am runnig a temporary setup of two 30 amp relays in parallel with no troubles. I would think you would be fine. I belive they spike high when first switched on but then settle down while running.

    I plan on moving to either a constant duty selenoid or a solid state DC relay.
     

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