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Electric Fuel Pump Swap

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by zakk, Dec 23, 2001.

  1. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    Got a '87 TBI. Is it best to try to find an internal gas tank fuel pump or go for an exteranl and carry a spare? I do a bit of mudding so please factor that it. I though of mounting to the famerail and boxing it in to protect it, but i am not sure if it needs air flow to keep it cool...also PN's of pumps you use would be appreciated[​IMG]

    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  2. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Zakk - I just bought the Summit billit pump not too long ago. Its been great. I didn't build in any protection for it, since its is all metal... as for cooling, mine sits about 3" from my catalytic converter! [​IMG] It worked good there for me since that is where the factory hard lines stopped and started.

    Here's the link to the unit <a target="_blank" href=http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=18&amp;s=112&amp;p=3786&amp;SearchType=ECat> L I N K</a>

    and the $20 regulator (unless you have one) <a target="_blank" href=http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=18&amp;s=111&amp;p=725&amp;SearchType=ECat> L I N K</a>

    <font color=red>GOT MUD???</font color=red>
    My license plate reads:<font color=blue> 8 YR SUV</font color=blue>
    454/TH400/NP205 - 14BFF/D60/w/ 4.10s - 36" TSLs
     
  3. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    the deal includes a stock pump with the regulator, but thanks for the links. also how did you plumb the return form the regulator to the tank? is there a provision or preferable spot for it?
    thanks again


    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  4. fright89

    fright89 1/2 ton status

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    i have a malory 4060fi on my 89 mounted on the frame. i got the fittings at home depot. runs real nice but alittle exspenive. no regulator
     
  5. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the help to all

    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I've heard that in the tank pumps have much lower failure rates than external. No hard facts, but I've heard it enough to sway me that direction. I used an internal and will carry an extra for about the same price as a good external (without even factoring in the regulator). Only problem is access. I'll do what many others have done and make a small access door right on top of the pump so it is not an issue. Save money, maybe more dependable, and the only "extra overhead" is the door fabrication. Just my opinion and my approach. Good luck...

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  7. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    what is a safe way to work on a gas tank? the safety factor is why i was leaning towards an external "Blue" Holley fuel pump and maybe carry an extra. How do you plan to "add" the door?

    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Safe way to work on a gas tank? Don't. [​IMG] I just disconnect the battery and make sure no one has a cigarette near. Common sense I guess.

    As for the door, there are plenty of options. I'll describe a simple one similar to what I have done and it looks fairly "factory original" (depending on the care you take).

    1) Use a cutoff wheel to cut a square (or whatever) in the floor above the tank that is large enough to get the tank pickup out. Make sure the cuts are clean, you will be using the piece that drops out to form the door. Because of the sparks, you probably want to have the tank out for this. And remember, it has to be big enough for you to be able to twist and turn it to get out the float arm and pump.

    2) Take some scrap sheet metal (fairly heavy, floor section is ideal) and slide it under the edge of the floor with about 3/8" or so sticking out into the hole. Do this on all 4 sides of the hole. Your basically making a platform for the access door to lay on. These pieces of scrap can be screwed, riveted, or welded to the floor pan.

    3) Take the section you cut out and drop it back into the hole it came out of (oriented just like it originally was). Drill a few holes around the edge and screw the access panel into the scrap metal platform you created in step 2.

    Obviously, you can get as elaborate as you like. If you are concerned about it sealing, you could build the platform to go completely around the hole, silicone it to the floor, and then make a seal for the access door. To get a flat surface (easier to make a gasket) on the access "door", you could use plastic epoxy (sticks from hardware store), fiberglass, etc. to fill the contours and grind/sand it flat. Then just make a gasket out of soft, closed cell (dense foam like stuff) and screw the door down. If you want it to look nice and level, make sure to take the gasket thickness into account when locating the "platform". You can even round the corners of the access hole/door which looks more "factory" (but it can be a real pain (can't relief cut on either side), doubt I would go that far without a plasma gun).

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  9. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    these might sound silly, but i have never used FI before [​IMG]

    so the access door is so you can get to the fuel pump, i take it there is a "door" so that i could get to the in-tank mounted model? Your suggestions are for a "door" in the bed of the truck to access the "door" tank, if my brain is still working after all that egg nog[​IMG]


    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  10. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    zakk, there was never a door from the factory. He is saying to just cut a hole out of your bed, make a door or flap to go over it, then throw your carpeting over it when your done. If your pump takes a crap, pull up the carpeting, remove the door pull out the sending unit and pump,replace the pump, and put back together. hope this helps Dan

    86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&33"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  11. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    right. but there is a "door" in the tank to get at the sending unit?. I know this sounds strange but i have never dropped mine or a FI unit to look.

    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Its a "lock" ring with an o-ring seal. Kind of an odd arrangement, but basically, the outer retaining ring is beaten counterclockwise until the sending unit comes loose, and you can pull the entire sending unit assembly (and pump) out. The outer ring has "ears" on it that you can get at. I'm sure anyone would tell you to use something like a brass punch or wood block to loosen the ring with, to cut down on the chance of sparks.

    FWIW, I've heard the same thing baout in-tank pumps, that the longevity is due to the fact that a lot of the time they are "cooled" by the fuel in the tank, while the external ones are not. A lot of times the externals people install end up in a hotter areas anyway, like kind of close to an exhaust pipe, or in the engine bay.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
     
  13. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    the more i read into this, the bigger this project seems!

    -zakk

    '77 1-Ton K5

    [​IMG] CK5's MOAB 2002 OR BUST!! [​IMG]
     
  14. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Dorian and dueler are correct. I was explaining how to make an access door so you don't have to drop a tank (full of fuel) just to change the pump. This is a door in your floor. The tank has a removable "pickup" that has the gas pickup tubes, the fuel level sending unit, and the pump (when equiped). Here is a picture of the sending unit. You can clearly see on the second where you would need some room to manuver (larger access door) to get the float and tubes out. Note that there is no pump here. This is the pickup from my diesel tank (which is very similar to a gas pickup with no pump in the tank).

    <a target="_blank" href=http://members.home.net/russhuffman/pickupin.jpg>Pickup in place but without lock ring</a>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://members.home.net/russhuffman/pickupout.jpg>Pickup laying on top</a>

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     

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