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Electrical gurus I need help!!!!! Head Scratcher!!!!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by KrebsATM02, Jul 9, 2003.

  1. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, here is the problem:

    It has happened 4 times in the last 6 months absolutely randomly... When i'm driving, the power for the ignition cuts out totally, no powere windows, no starter, etc... Power for lights still work, brake lights etc... So it is just ignition power...

    Also, the hazards don't come on either until the problem goes away. The problem actually takes care of itself with time....like it resets itself.

    Could this be the ignition module??? I'm about to go take the steering column out and start tracing ignition wires from the source.

    Thanks in advance - Doug
     
  2. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    It would not be an ignition module if you also lose power to windows and other items. I would start by looking for a bad hot or ground connection somewhere. The best place to start due to the circumstances is the ignition switch.
     
  3. AntAZBlaz

    AntAZBlaz 1/2 ton status

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    I would start at the ground for the battery make sure that it is not lose and then you should use a volt ohm meter and work out from there.
    there are multiple ground points on the car so for you to lose all of them would mean that you have mutilple bad grounds or a lose negative battery terminal. is your radio reciver going out as well? becasue you should be able to easily track those wires down and check there conections.
    king
     
  4. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    The only problem i have with the ground theory is why does time cure the problem??? When it happens, I mess with every wire that involves the steering wheel or ignition. The hard part is, once the problem goes away I can't really dianose anything, and it only happens when I'm driving, so i can't start ripping things apart in a parking lot or a street.

    Also, i beat the crap out of the steering column to see if anything was loose and jolting it might fix it, but that doesn't work. Only time......Weird isn't it?

    Oh and antblaz...anything that has to do with the ignition being on doesn't work. The stereo works, but it isn't wired to the ignition.

    But the weird thing is the hazards dont' work either, maybe the hazard and the ignition switch is wired in the same group???

    Didn't have time to look at anything tonight, hopefully after work tommorow!
     
  5. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Don't really know what's causing the problem, but I would think long and hard about tearing into the column, that damn thing may very well be the most frustrating part to come out of GM...
     
  6. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Check the positive wires to your starter, and then the feed that comes off the starter to the rest of the truck. Verify ALL grounds are good.

    Whenever the windows, hazards, ign., etc ALL cease to function, you have to look at the inline fuses that are near the starter IIRC... hopefully my comments will jog someone else's memory who knows exactly what I am trying to remember... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Hope that helps.

    -Dan
     
  7. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Are you talking about the fusible links?? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  8. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    if only the things that are ignition-on lose power, i would look at the ignition switch as a possible cause, but first i would check under the dash, the connectors for the steering column wires, make sure none of the pins are pushed out of the connectors...good luck
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yes he is talking about the fusible links. Been a few posts on them IIRC, because I certainly don't recall the exact way they feed everything. On cars, you can lose one fusible link and still have headlights, but no start, or vise versa. I've heard of "intermittent" fusible link problems as well.
     
  10. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Steering column is totally out...had to do it so i could swap the right pedals in for my hydro setup. I had a temporary hydro setup in place until i could get the correct pedal assembly.

    Anyways...everything was plugged in fine...I'm not scared about ripping the steering wheel apart. I've already done it in two trucks to tighten up the tilt column. Let me tell you, that is a pain in the ass.

    So, lets discuss this intermitent(Sp?) fusible link problem some more. I was about to just take the ignition switch out of the picture completly and make a push button start, but that may not solve my problem. Do these links get corroded??? Help please!!!
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    As I recall, the fusible link is basically a fuse, but uses an Aluminum strand(?) that is supposed to melt (cutting the connection) when there is a short in that circuit.

    However, I've heard of the piece not "melting" back far enough, so it would make contact sometimes, but with vibration, would lose contact again.

    It seems very unlikely, but I know that it's happened before. You can test continuity on these wires with a multimeter, that would be my first check, and I'd also wiggle the wires while testing them, probably along the entire length just to eliminate that as a problem.

    I just can't recall though, if the fusible links on the truck do feed headlights and ignition seperately, or if the "junction block" on the firewall kinda near the distributor, serves to "join" the fusible link leads before they hit the fuse panel.
     
  12. JustHorsinArownd

    JustHorsinArownd Registered Member

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    Fusible link looks a piece of wire that's just a little fatter than the wires that go into it and leave it. The ones I've seen are spliced inline. I spose they could corrode but I don't think they would magically fix themselves after a few minutes. By the way, how long are talkin here that you're waitin around. Cuz if it's long enough for somethin to cool maybe we should all be thinkin along those lines. Anyway, that's close enough to a novel that I'll stop now. Good luck.

    Allan
     
  13. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Perhaps something is pulling out of the fuse block.

    Also, if it is column related and you say it only happens when you drive, maybe it has to do with the column shifter being in D.
     
  14. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    I check all the wires going into the fuse block and wiggle the wires going into the ignition switch. Time is different everytime. 1st-5 minutes 2nd-45min 3rd-1 mine 4th- an hour and 45 minutes.

    It's just weird. I tell when it is working again when the hazards come back on.

    And I swapped from a auto to a sm465 so the shifter is park the whole time and I don't think that would explain the windows and hazards not working.

    I just remembered my dad has the shop books for our safari minivan and they include everything for trucks too. So i'll look at the electrical diagrams tonight to see if i can find any of those fusible links.

    Thanks for the response so far - Doug
     
  15. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Okay 2 connectors that go into the ignition module, blue and black. The blue connector has 4 wires and so does the blue.

    Blue Connector
    Pink=IGN1 goes through firewall at main junction block
    Purple=SOL Goes to solonoid to crank
    Red=BAT2 goes through firewall at main junction block
    Brown=IGN3 Can't find where it goes on the wire diagrams, seems to disappear

    Black
    Red=BAT3 outside through firewall
    Brown= ACC can't find where it goes, but should power accessories???
    Tan/Wht=GRD1 goes to a cluster connector, then to???
    Orange=GRD2 can't find where it goes

    Ok, so i'm going to go ahead and make a start button, but i would like to know what the rest of these wires do. I figure on has to go to a relay for the fuel pump, power for computer, and what else?????

    HELP!!!!!!
     
  16. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Fix the problem. With EFI, you are just creating more problems trying to bypass the problem than by fixing it.
     
  17. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    A push button starter isn't really going to do anything anyway. It seems that your ignition is cutting out, which is totally seperate from the starter part of the engine wiring harness.
     
  18. along4

    along4 Registered Member

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    Do the push button starter because it is COOL. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I have an intermittent ignition switch and put on the push button for when it does not work. I also wired in a solenoid to cut power to the accessories when it is cranking.
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I dunno. I never found that adding more things that could prevent my vehicle from starting if they fail, were worth it.
     
  20. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Well i always wanted push button and now i have it. But back to the problem... I'm cleaning every ground and every kind of postive linkage i can find too. I made my starter have a ford solonoid up by the battery so it won't get stuck cranking in the water. So i'll clean all those connections too.

    It's just weird that everything but the ignition and hazards don't work, but when the hazards finally do come back on the ignition works. Everyone is baffled by this...but it's annoying the [I love Jeeps] out of me!!!!!
     

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