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Electrical in Nature..

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rem7600, Apr 28, 2000.

  1. rem7600

    rem7600 1/2 ton status

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    Once again, "The Electrically Challenged" is
    going to delve down under that dash!

    I am in hopes someone might be able to shed
    a little insight on a situation I'm having.

    I'm trying to hook up the power door locks to the
    Avital Security system in my '89 Jimmy. I have
    found all of the wires necessary. The issue is
    that the avital unit only puts out about 6V
    when the unit is "pressed". I understand that
    I need a relay but the guy at the radio shop
    went into a dog and pony show about how it could
    be this or could be that or 10 zillion other
    things. Bottom line, I think he was trying to
    have me bring it in so he could make a quick $50
    by crimping in a $7 relay.

    Heres the gory...

    Avital - LCK wire - +6 (i think) when "worked"
    Avital - ULCK wire - +6 (i think) when "worked"
    GM - Baby Blue Wire - Lock +12+V when "worked"
    GM - Black&White Wire - UnLock +12+V when "worked"

    I also posted this to the Audio related
    section for maximum exposure. I hope to
    get at it this weekend. Many thanx for any insight
    you might provide, and sorry for "cross posting"
    but I am hoping for a quick answer.

    Aren't we all??? :-)))))

    [​IMG]
    <font color=purple>REM7600 - '89 Jimmy</font color=purple>
     
  2. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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  3. rem7600

    rem7600 1/2 ton status

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    Do I have to worry about all of the other stuff like
    Negative Polarity and "stuff" he was telling me?

    If you'll help me with the wiring I'll gladly pick
    up the part! Thanx


    [​IMG]
    <font color=purple>REM7600 - '89 Jimmy</font color=purple>
     
  4. rem7600

    rem7600 1/2 ton status

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    Thanx, that explained my questions... and is MUCH clearer!
    Shall I simply respond to this post after I get the relay?

    [​IMG]
    <font color=purple>REM7600 - '89 Jimmy</font color=purple>
     
  5. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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  6. rem7600

    rem7600 1/2 ton status

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    Aw Man, now you're gonna understand why
    I say Electrically challenged!

    Diodes? Additional pieces? I always thought
    diodes were connectors..

    Won't need a latching relay? As opposed to???? I'm
    pretty sure I still need some sort of relay.

    I'll take your diagram into Radio Shack tomorrow. Pardon
    my ignorance on this stuff.

    [​IMG]
    <font color=purple>REM7600 - '89 Jimmy</font color=purple>
     
  7. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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  8. SnakeEyes

    SnakeEyes Registered Member

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    Eagle:
    Why do you need a latching setup? I agree with your analysis but I’m not sure why you chose to do it as a latch.
    How many amps will the locking solenoid draw across the relay contacts. I have some ice cube relays around here that are good for 1 amp and a million cycles. You can get them from Newark, with the appropriate sockets, with the coils set for 12VDC or 24VDC or a number of other operating voltages. Not trying to be a smartass here, just don’t understand the need for the latching setup. Diodes are a nice touch and will eat contact bounce and allow the setup to work and live a long time. It would seem to me that the locking solenoid would accept a one time shot of voltage to move into position and then maintain that position even after voltage is removed. Have I got it wrong?? I wouldn’t be surprised.
     
  9. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    OK TR, here are my 2 cents.......I went to the Avital web sitehttp://www.avital.com/index2.html.....this seems like a very nice system and I can't imagine that it puts out only 6 volts. Most systems will provide a ground or "sinking" pulse when they are activated. This signal is connected to a relay for better power handling. I think your unit is designed for 12 volts. What you need is a couple of Potter&Brumfield VF4 type relays. Radio shack will have something that will work. They are about $5 ea. and used a lot in auotmotive systems. You do not want a latching setup....door locks are designed for a momentary 12 volt pulse, a constant 12 will not be good for them. By using two relays you don't have to deal with diodes etc. I don't have a way to include a drawing, but if you email me I can fax ya a drawing that's pretty simple......what do you guys use to make "drawing attachments" by the way? Anything I can do......just yell!
    The orientation of the diodes in the previous post will do nothing for "contact bounce" by the way.....

    Michael [​IMG] http://jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm
     
  10. SnakeEyes

    SnakeEyes Registered Member

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    Your right Michael, I reviewed the design, again after I had my coffee, and it wont help contact bounce at all. It will keep the dreaded back EMF out of the power supply however.
    I dont have a way to add drawings either, Eagle's got me there, so I'd like to hear about that!!
    Keep Roddin'
     
  11. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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  12. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    OK Ray, I'll apologize to TR in advance for taking his simple question and turning it into a "techno nerd" contest. Your circuit is a bad design. The "pulse" that comes out of an alarm system or keyless entry or factory switch is just that.....a pulse. They are usually 1-3 seconds in duration. In your design the unlock pulse will come along and change the state of the realy, to unlock the doors, for the duration of the pulse. Then the pulse will be over and the doors will return to the locked state. Also, your design applies 12 volts to the door solenoid all the time, they are not designed for constant voltage. My other, and main point, was the alarm system does not require 6 volt realys. The alarm is designed for an auotomotive system and will handle a 12 realy. Your Blazer and most other GM vehicles utilize a "dual" relay in a single package for the factory relay that is operated by the "pulse" from your momentary Lock/Unlock switch. Now, if you'll PLEASE tell me how to make a little drawing I'll show you how to wire two P&B relays (which are extremely durable and cheap) to make this thing work.

    Michael [​IMG] http://jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm
     
  13. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I am not about to argue with you folks, it is obvious to me you do not know what you are talking about. There is no relay for the door lock, only a switch and a dual coil soleniod for the lock. My alarm system has a 12 volt output and ties in directly with the switch..no relay. The only reason I suggested a relay in the first place was the 6 volt out on his system which I thought was weird but stranger things have happened.

    TR send me a private message and I will send you my email and I will show you how to hook this up.



    <font color=green>[​IMG]Eagle86K5[​IMG]
     
  14. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    heheheheheheheheh

    <font color=green>[​IMG]Eagle86K5[​IMG]
     
  15. SnakeEyes

    SnakeEyes Registered Member

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    Well, That was fun. You guys always this friendly and helpful or was this a special day? ROFLMAO
     
  16. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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  17. rem7600

    rem7600 1/2 ton status

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    Not necessarily full of it...

    But on this issue, Michael you were
    right, it quickly went over my head so
    I think it may, in fact, be the best
    choice for me to take it to the shop,
    hand them $50 and be done with it.
    They'll hand me a new remote and a
    guarantee that it will work. I do
    appreciate the replies though. This
    group is the best I've seen at
    answering specific questions.

    Later!

    REM7600

    [​IMG]
    <font color=purple>REM7600 - '89 Jimmy</font color=purple>
     

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